I like 350+ horsepower screaming two strokes
A friend of mine had the same engine in the early 90‘s ,what i know from remembering... it was a fuel sucker like a v8 chevy big block from the 60's.
The engine is good on a 24 heavy hull for 60mph + , yours should be little faster on a 23 foot boat with the right prop.
keep the engine on the save side,go with pre mix if not already made.
keep it always on the good ridge fuel side ,will cost a couple of HP but will save a costly rebuild.
check the carbs and carb bowls for any dirt contamination under the floats,or in the jet area, use a good fuel filter.if one carb gets leaned out,or a jet cloged your 2 stroke is gone real fast .
like all two strokes they don't like lean condition ,the piston and liner don't have the time to cool down like on four strokes.
19 Prop is a way to small 23 pitch for testing the engine at low rpm is ok ,be careful the 3.6 or 4.0 liter rotating assembly is very heavy like all v8‘s and if you spin an old worn and factory balanced v8 engine with lots of rpm ,something will go, mostly bearing failure or in the worst case a rod will go or crank can go in two halfs, keep an old engine little under the manufacture given max rpm and it will be ok.if you are ready for a rebuild go higher if you want, in the us the jonyrude v8's are around and spare parts available.
for baltic sea and rough condition i would say a 24 to 25 pitch 4 blade with the bullet centerline 2-2.5 inches under the center of the hull to get the weight momentum of the power head deep as possible will be fine , for flat out river or lake 1-1.5 inches and if the engine is healthy and strong a 26 to 28 pitch 3 blade prop will be fine if you are in the right recommended rpm range, that's also where the low water pic on the bobs nose cone will come into play to get water into it at medium to max trimm out and a higher set up.
most v hulls dont like a lifter , because of the set back what makes it more unstable in rough condition . specially mr.steve baker (phantom) don't recommend a lifter for his hulls but that will vary with hull design , ride plate,stepped or not ,the mid section lenghts of the engine, weight distribution, ballast-tank filled or empty and so on.
it will be always a compromise between the setups and different water conditions.
on eight of ten old big outboards what i have seen ,mostly the engine mounts are gone and soft ,the steering arm bushings in the saddle and splines on the steering arm yoke are warn out or already rusted away ,the result will be a very unstable ride and lots of chine walk specially with a heavy anchor on the transom like yours ,that will steer and point in all direction under load and not in yours .
i am not a pro in raceboat rigging maybe somebody other can point you in the right direction in the tec Q&A department here at the board
good luck with the boat and engine
let us know the result and how it was the first day out
Some tec info ,maybe not known ? for you
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=94746
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...not-e-tec.html
ps. and welcome to this nice board, lots of nice and helpful people here !!!!
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