Volvo D6 DPR drive/HuntonXRS37 - Page 10

peterunwin · 15-08-2013, 08:10 AM

Hi All,
Picked up the front wing mounting plates from Simon at Oval Stainless these are water jetted alloy, i then routed a chamfer on all edges and then blended in with a dye grinder. The cross members are made from yacht rigging spreader bars with the back flange cut off then ground to an aero dynamic shape almost ready for welding, also made a pod for the rev counters from low density foam which Carbon Weasel are skinning for me i will then remove the foam from the inside.

Peter

peterunwin · 03-09-2013, 09:22 AM

Hi all,
Made lots more progress finished making all the parts for the front wing mounting and bolted the bases to the nose moulding, this will be used as a jig so that all the parts fit nice and flush with the deck. Also made lots more progress on the wiring front, i have used standard Volvo looms which are concealed where possible which i have tailored in situ so there are no coiled up excess wires anywhere, they are also identified port and starboard along their lengths for easy recognition.

Peter

peterunwin · 03-09-2013, 09:25 AM

Wiring pictures

Cookee · 03-09-2013, 01:14 PM

If Carlsburg made boats ...............

Frenchbruno · 03-09-2013, 04:27 PM

Hi Peter,
Looks like the skirt of the hoses fiiting are not already crimped, perharps you're still adjusting the good lenghts and curves at the moment you took the pictures... What fitting ends are you using for the braided hoses? Jic 37° or other ones?
Bruno

peterunwin · 03-09-2013, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frenchbruno

Hi Peter,
Looks like the skirt of the hoses fiiting are not already crimped, perharps you're still adjusting the good lenghts and curves at the moment you took the pictures... What fitting ends are you using for the braided hoses? Jic 37° or other ones?
Bruno

Hi Bruno,
Your observations are correct the hoses have not yet been swaged as the last hose will incorporate a visual flow meter which has only just been delivered so i can now tailor the exact length for all the hoses and swage them, i use 7/16th jic with 1/4 hose tails these have substantially less pressure drop than the merc flare fittings and are much more readily available.

Regards
Peter

peterunwin · 15-09-2013, 10:04 AM

Hi All,
Made lots more progress on the wiring all the basics are now in. I have kept wires for different functions in individual trunking where possible, also finished of the rev counter mounting pod and installed it.

Peter

peterunwin · 17-09-2013, 01:59 PM

Hi All,
At long last the 12 volt stainless steel actuators and synchronization module have arrived so i have been able to finalise the geometry of the mounting brackets, they have much more stroke than i actually need but it will enable me to test beyond the wings efficient range which will result in more drag.

Peter

RossM · 17-09-2013, 02:14 PM

Wow!

Ian H · 18-09-2013, 07:00 PM

Hi Peter,
Will you be operating the front and rear wings independently or together.
And will this be done from the Steering wheel on the dash ?

Looking good.

peterunwin · 21-09-2013, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian H

Hi Peter,
Will you be operating the front and rear wings independently or together.
And will this be done from the Steering wheel on the dash ?

Looking good.

Hi Ian,
Front wing is electrically controlled from the dashboard rear wing is manually adjustable, flaps on rear wing adjustable from dashboard. If the wings work as successfully as i anticipate all controls will be integrated into the steering wheel.

Best Regards
Peter

peterunwin · 21-09-2013, 07:23 PM

Hi All,
Diesel filler and vent pipes are now installed, visual flow meters for the dry sump system are fitted and all the hoses have been swaged and installed permanently, also completed the wiring for the battery master switches.

Peter

Cookee · 22-09-2013, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterunwin

Hi All,
Diesel filler and vent pipes are now installed,

Peter

Excuse me for being thisk - are the vents below the level of the fillers?

Marinautic · 22-09-2013, 01:09 PM

Certainly looks like it, which should make for an interesting fill.

jason phillips · 22-09-2013, 04:01 PM

looks like by the time the nozzle is the filler it will be just below the 'goose neck' high point so it will cut out before getting to the breather outlet?

peterunwin · 23-09-2013, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cookee

Excuse me for being thisk - are the vents below the level of the fillers?

Hi John,
The breather is lower than the deck filler but i saw no reason to change them as they are in the standard Hunton positions and both tanks fill extremely well, even from fast fill pumps there has never been an issue. Most of the vented air comes back up the fuel filler and diesel being a little frothy seems to shut the pump of before it runs out of the breather, obviously if you were very persistant and try to fill the pipe to the brim it would come out the breather by which time you would also have filled the expansion gap at the top of the tank but i am sure that would take real patience.

Peter

Cookee · 24-09-2013, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterunwin

Hi John,
The breather is lower than the deck filler but i saw no reason to change them as they are in the standard Hunton positions and both tanks fill extremely well, even from fast fill pumps there has never been an issue. Most of the vented air comes back up the fuel filler and diesel being a little frothy seems to shut the pump of before it runs out of the breather, obviously if you were very persistant and try to fill the pipe to the brim it would come out the breather by which time you would also have filled the expansion gap at the top of the tank but i am sure that would take real patience.

Peter

Must be a very big bore filler then - I'm a great believer in "If it ain't broke don't fix it" although you seemed to have ignored that completely (in a very good way indeed!).

peterunwin · 03-10-2013, 06:43 PM

Hi All,
Lots more progress on the wiring have also modified the strainer caps so that i can install a hydraulic quick release coupling which is normally connected to a two bar relief valve to protect the system from being over pressured, i can also use the same coupling for flushing the engines, all the parts are made from 316 stainless which i have machined internally and externally to reduce their weight and given them a quick polish.

Peter

Cookee · 04-10-2013, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterunwin

Hi All,
Lots more progress on the wiring have also modified the strainer caps so that i can install a hydraulic quick release coupling which is normally connected to a two bar relief valve to protect the system from being over pressured, i can also use the same coupling for flushing the engines, all the parts are made from 316 stainless which i have machined internally and externally to reduce their weight and given them a quick polish.

Peter

What's the last photo showing Peter?

peterunwin · 05-10-2013, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cookee

What's the last photo showing Peter?

Hi John,
That one slipped in by mistake but it shows the roughed out brackets for holding the penny and giles submersible transducers, these will be bolted to the outdrive top bearing cap the other end connected to the h frame with stainless steel rose joints.

Peter