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Old 15-11-2013, 06:50 PM   #1
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Flywheel removal any techniques

Hi all,

I'm at my wits end. The flywheel on my 200hp Blackmax will not come off. I have used a traditional flywheel puller, an official Mercury flywheel puller (engine lift style), shit loads of mech oil. I have shocked it to the point I'm worried about doing damage to bearings.

The only thing I haven't done is apply heat but I am worried about damaging the lamination on the stator and triggers. The flywheel magnets are only held on with glue and this setup must be from early 90's so wont take a lot to knacker them.

Any suggestions?
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Old 15-11-2013, 08:03 PM   #2
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I have an XR2 crank with the flywheel boss still on it here, would not come off at all. Gave up and dismantled the flywheel.

Even tried heat and that didnt work! So be interested in hearing how you get it off!
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Old 15-11-2013, 10:23 PM   #3
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merc flywheel puller using

Sometimes it's very difficult to remove the flywhell from the tapered.
end of the cranckshaft. Remember the thread of the Inside square head screw merc puller is a fine thread (stay away from custom puller made with UNC threads), and the merc puller toll need to be used with the Inside thrust washer, don't try to remove the flywheel by the puller without using the Inside thrust washer.
Also don't forget to buy a tube of MOS2 grease, this particular grease is very very efficient to reduce the friction coefficient factor to something around 0.1 if you remember some mecanic course. It's easy to buy in every mecanic stuff suppliers, or on the web. Just Google MOS2 friction grease. Then you can use 3 feet tube on the wrench to generate more torque, usually this combination with increased lever and MOS2 grease on the central fine thread screw and the both sides of the thrust washer works.
http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrica...cteristics.htm
There are many suppliers for this grease, not so expensive, like '' molykote''.
NB, never use a hammer on the flywhell , the shock impacts tend to break the magnets very easily.
Good luck!
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Old 16-11-2013, 09:45 AM   #4
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French Bruno, I've done all that (read first post) and I always use the insert. the merc puller does up to the point it wont physically do up anymore even with a large breaker bar. its to the point if I used a longer extension I will snap the bolt.

I really want to port and polish exhaust ports on this block and do some mods to the pistons. bring up the compressions and check all the bearings and rings. without the flywheel off I cant undo the 4 bolts holding the stator onto the crankcase.

hydro, when you say dismantle the flywheel do you mean it breaks down into pieces or you smashed it up? I thought these were solid. if I can get access to those bolts to split the block I'm happy.

its an old piece of shit but works so it'll be a nice project to see what can be done with it.
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Old 16-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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merc flywheel puller using

Yes I've perfectly read your first post, but you need to know there is a difference in final torque result when you use motor oil instead of MOS2 grease. Then when you say, you are affraid to damage bearing, there is no effect when you install the flywheel puller in the flywheel when you torque, no effect on the upper bearing, if you work properly. Sometimes you're very close to the extraction point, but you stop some foot.lbs before, and nothing appen.
If you have a spare flywheel, you can torque at the maximum you can, then hit the central screw of your puller, be carefull when doing that, the flywheel can jump pretty hight. But most of the time the magnets cracks doing this extreme procedure. You combinate also this procedure with an air gun , this increase a bit the taperad bore of the flywheel.....
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Old 16-11-2013, 11:42 AM   #6
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Yes I've perfectly read your first post, but you need to know there is a difference in final torque result when you use motor oil instead of MOS2 grease.
I said mech oil, it is an industrial penetrating oil (bit like wd40) to try and release the rust/corrosion. I always use grease on the insert of the puller.

no spare flywheel and so expensive for second hand one breaking it isn't an option.
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Old 16-11-2013, 12:15 PM   #7
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merc flywheel puller using

Hum!, not easy, but in mecanic, sometimes you reach one point where you need to sacrifice one element to save to the most expensive ones.
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Old 16-11-2013, 12:30 PM   #8
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The lightweight flywheel is like the old flex plate type, so you can take it appart.

I probably have a flywheel if youre stuck
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Old 16-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #9
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I probably have a flywheel if youre stuck
that would be awesome if you do, i am off to the workshop to try and take it apart. will keep you posted
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Old 16-11-2013, 02:39 PM   #10
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The 90'S years Black MAX flywheel are 40amp and dont use ''flex riveted '' component....
Unless this engineis modified and use 16amp alternator.
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Old 16-11-2013, 04:36 PM   #11
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The lightweight flywheel is like the old flex plate type, so you can take it appart.

I probably have a flywheel if youre stuck
ok I have got it apart, the stator is off.

how do you lift the trigger plate over the boss? I would be happy to leave it on the crank if I could get to the 4 bolts for the end cap assembly. suggestions please???

I dismantled the flywheel, undressed the power head and stripped the carbs, I'm so close to being able to do the mods I want but the flywheel boss is still being an arse!
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Old 16-11-2013, 04:54 PM   #12
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may be with this type of puller you can remobe the Boss sticked on the taperef end of the crankshaft.
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Old 16-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #13
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with the trigger and the end cap you cant get to the bottom of the flywheel boss
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Old 16-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #14
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You will have to split the trigger to get under the boss, but with it all appart, you should be able to heat the be jesus out of the boss and pull it, or like bruno has said, use a hyd pullers.

I just used a different crank!!

Or you could split the boss with a grinder.
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Old 16-11-2013, 06:53 PM   #15
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If it had a flex plate flywheel its likely a 2.4 200Hp, if so it will probably have chrome bores. This is going to limit what you can do with the ports.
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Old 16-11-2013, 07:11 PM   #16
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where do you split the trigger, surely that will render it ****ed lol. I don't mind leaving the boss on the crank as I can clean up the stator and triggers by using Hydros brilliant idea of dismantling flywheel. Hydro.
I may just clean it up if i'm going to be limited by chrome bores.
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Old 16-11-2013, 07:17 PM   #17
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Anywhere you like! I find a tin snips works well! But yeah, its useless after. But at least now you can split the block!
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Old 16-11-2013, 07:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Anywhere you like! I find a tin snips works well! But yeah, its useless after. But at least now you can split the block!
lol, do you have any cheap triggers going?
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Old 16-11-2013, 07:40 PM   #19
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Theres probably a few kicking around alright.
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Old 16-11-2013, 08:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Theres probably a few kicking around alright.
ill think ill wait until you tell me if you have one and how much you want for it before I break it. if i'm limited to what I can do I would rather build it back up and just skim the head to bring compressions up.
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