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Old 02-04-2007, 06:31 PM   #1
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Galvanised metal painting

Anyone know if i can paint on top of galvanising? If not is there any sort of primer that i can use so that i can? Its been suggested that i use an acid etch primer but i would have to quite seriously key the metal up for this.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:22 PM   #2
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Yes you can, but you need to wash the galvinised coating first.

If it is 'dull' and aged, it will hold paint. If new, it needs a primer. You can make it 'old' by washing with an etching fluid.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:25 PM   #3
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I've had powder coating put on over a galvanised landrover bulkhead, which worked well. As long as you can get the coated part into the oven it should work. Dunno about seawater contact after a while though.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:59 PM   #4
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If its newly galvanised do you not have to let it out-gas for a few weeks?
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:14 PM   #5
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The solution for etchin is called 'mordent solution' or T Wash but must be washed thoroughly with fresh water to remove the remnants of the solution.

If done well this'll remove the zinc salts and provide a key for painting at the same time.

don't forget the PPE and do it in a well vented place too.
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:59 PM   #6
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The solution for etchin is called 'mordent solution' or T Wash but must be washed thoroughly with fresh water to remove the remnants of the solution.

If done well this'll remove the zinc salts and provide a key for painting at the same time.

don't forget the PPE and do it in a well vented place too.

Well the galvanising is dull and fairly old so im assuming you dont need a etch primer then?
T wash? Ya mean truck wash? And whats PPE?
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:04 PM   #7
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And whats PPE?
Personal Protection Equipment! Yarn should know that as your a mechanic yarn should have some!
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:07 PM   #8
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galv painting

You should still use an etch primer ,hamerite make one.or the paint will flake off after a short time.
PPE = personel protection equitment
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:08 PM   #9
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Personal Protection Equipment! Yarn should know that as your a mechanic yarn should have some!

Us common mechanics just call em overall's! Personal Protection Equipment! I dunno!
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:09 PM   #10
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You should still use an etch primer ,hamerite make one.or the paint will flake off after a short time.
PPE = personel protection equitment

Was thinkin just a normal etch primer then on with some paint!
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:23 PM   #11
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Well the galvanising is dull and fairly old so im assuming you dont need a etch primer then?
T wash? Ya mean truck wash? And whats PPE?
Still have to etch it it removes the zinc salts which allows the key. etch priming just covers it up.

T wash is another name for etching solution, PPE-don't forget ya gloves if it etches galv wots it gonna do to ya hands???
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:09 AM   #12
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Anyone know if i can paint on top of galvanising? If not is there any sort of primer that i can use so that i can? Its been suggested that i use an acid etch primer but i would have to quite seriously key the metal up for this.
I'd think twice about it Scottyboy if you want it to stay looking good. I painted over galvanising and I was sorry I did it after a while but I did put the trailer into the sea. It might be ok if you don't do this. What seems to happen is the water manages to penetrate somewhere and the galvanising starts to do its job by sacrificing itself vigorously because it's the only bit of zinc available to react. This wee patch quickly bubbles up, the way galvanising does, and you've got yourself a scabby patch. It keeps happening at various places on the trailer and turns the whole thing into something less than beautiful. Oddly, some bits remain untouched but this makes it look worse cos it's easy to see how it looked before it started fizzing. I guess if you were fastidious about its upkeep you could keep it spick 'n span but that was too much hassle for me.
When you come to repaint it, you've got these nice smooth bits and the horrible scabbly bits so it's more work trying to level it to take the new coat of paint.

Just my feelings about it, of course.
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:13 AM   #13
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Don't do it.
After lot's of prep mine looked really scabby after a few dunks in the sea.
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:56 PM   #14
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Don't do it.
After lot's of prep mine looked really scabby after a few dunks in the sea.

Spoke to the bodyshop we use at work today and they dont seem to think it will be a problem aslong as i use a decent trade etch primer and use a gloss coat 2 pack paint!
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:25 PM   #15
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Etching primers are hygroscopic,they don,t like water.
I worked for 12 years in a industrial metal protection company,and had best results with epoxy primers for the first layer ,and a urethane ,DD,(desmodur /desmoven) for the toplayer,both 80 micron dry will do fine.

Use scotch brite pads with warm water to remove zinc salt,and sanding with P 150 (machined)

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Old 04-04-2007, 02:22 AM   #16
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I painted over galv on a trailer with Leigh's 2 pack epoxy aluminium paint - M902.

http://www.wjleigh.co.uk/Products.aspx

Stuff still looks nice and shiny 4 years later. Not a boat trailer though - just my old workhorse but it gets some serious abuse.

Slapped it straight on with a brush - didn't even clean it.
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:44 PM   #17
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I painted over galv on a trailer with Leigh's 2 pack epoxy aluminium paint - M902.

http://www.wjleigh.co.uk/Products.aspx

Stuff still looks nice and shiny 4 years later. Not a boat trailer though - just my old workhorse but it gets some serious abuse.

Slapped it straight on with a brush - didn't even clean it.
You could use (International) Interplus 256/356 aluminuim oxide maint coat, industrial hammerite if ya like
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Old 04-04-2007, 09:35 PM   #18
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I buy cheapo rollers from Proper Job for £1.35 and a can of red Hamerite and just keep on rolling (every few months) .
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