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Old 10-05-2013, 03:03 PM   #1
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installing a foot throttle

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of installing a foot throttle.
I am as far as having everything connected I only need to bolt it on the floor.

However I removed the carpet and vertical footboard and I saw there's a risk of drilling through the hull...
How do I solve this best ? Which materials do I need ? Footprint of the hot foot throttle is about 16cm x 11,5cm. I have good inox pozidriv fastners 4,8x25mm which aren't too long, but long and thick enough to give a solid connection to the floor.
Also I'd like to mount it a bit more to the right side, so the bottom isn't entirely flat overthere...

I'm looking for a solid solution which adds not too much weight also.
I was thinking of glueing a teflon baseplate with TEC7 but this probably won't do it, and is quite heavy I must say. I have no experience in polyestering some wood (what type is best for this?) , but this could be an opportunity ?

See the pics in attachement.
Thanks !
T.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:25 PM   #2
oxo
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foot throttle

Hi Toffy,
I see your dilemma, to be safe I'd rough sand the area + 4" around ( a wire brush attachment on a grinder works best) and glass in an 18mm marine ply block the same size as the base plate, then use some 20mm A4 stainless countersunk screws at least M6 size (you may have to re-drill base plate holes) just make sure you have a drill stop attachment when drilling pilot holes!
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:05 PM   #3
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Thanks for that advice ! This sets me in the right direction on how to solve this best. I'll glass in a marine ply block and go for even better screws.

I have zero experience in polyesterworks so if someone could redirect me to a link or give me a speed course on how to do this, that would great ! Also the type of wood : "marine ply block" sounds right, but I'll need to check with my local carpenter if he has something waterresistant. I probably need to pre-shape it a bit to fit the hull shape and make sure it's thick enough throughout the base... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood

Greets, T.
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Old 13-05-2013, 10:19 PM   #4
oxo
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advice

Hi,
I don't know about in your country but over here I can get marine ply at a builders merchant & fibreglass resin and matting at my local car paint supplier or body shop, 1L will be plenty, cut the matting to around 100mm over all round with a pair of good scissors (don't use the missus's, more trouble than it's worth!) Cut 3-4 sheets the same size, I'd say roughly 300x300mm then mix 500ml resin with 5% catalyst in a pot and stir(you'll see the resin change a slightly darker colour usually) paint the roughed up area (using a 2" stiff paint brush) liberally with some resin and apply the first sheet of matting. Paint liberally again with more resin and repeat the process until you've used all the matting and most of the resin, then dab the matting with the brush to form it around the ply, trying to get all the air out, you'll see it becoming almost transparent, then you know you've done a good job. You only have about ten minutes from the moment you mix the resin so if I was you I'd mix some of the spare 500ml first and have a play with it to get a feel for it. Also as a novice, do it as the day gets cooler as temperature makes a big difference to curing times.
Hope this helps,
Cheers
Lee
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Old 15-05-2013, 09:59 AM   #5
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thanks!! I'll give it a try this weekend.
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Old 15-05-2013, 10:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oxo View Post
then mix 500ml resin with 5% catalyst in a pot and stir(you'll see the resin change a slightly darker colour usually)
I'm reliably informed 1-2% will give you a longer working time, and a better bond!
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Old 15-05-2013, 10:01 PM   #7
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Yes, normaly 3% as a max.

I use 0.8 if it's warm outside and up to 2 when it's colder. This weather 1.5 should be fine.

I would prefabricate a base out of fibreglass (with 90° angle) and glass that in. You can through bolt this way and no wood where you have to put screws in.
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Old 15-05-2013, 10:25 PM   #8
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I like the through bolting idea...I'm visiting the local carshop for materials friday afternoon
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Old 17-05-2013, 09:02 PM   #9
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I've bought a fibreglass kit at my cardealer : fix airo.
www.airo-chemie.com/nl/reperatur_set_fix.aspx

I'm gonna go with the prefab base and throug bolting idea.

Only thing is : should I prefab in fiberglass or should I make an aluminium base.
My cardealer advized me to make the base out of aluminium, then glue it to the hull and as a last step glaze it in with the fibreglass...

My feel says to prefab in fibreglass though. As it's stronger and lighter than aluminium and I've got the materials now... But I don't know how to make that exact U-shape. I was thinking of putting fibreglass on a metal U-profile and take away the U-profile when dry. But is it better to do this on the inside or outside of the U-shape... and how do I make sure it will come off ?

greets, T.
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Old 18-05-2013, 12:34 PM   #10
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I made a quick drawing of the throttle support. I think this is the best and strongest orientation to glass it in. The bolts will be accessible.
Should I glass it in also on the inside of the U-shape ? Would make it even stronger.

I have blue foam to make a mold. I would prefer to make a male mold. A male mold can be presented to see if the mold shape is perfect. Once it's made I'll glue it to a cardboard baseplate and start fiberglassing. The throttle base will be carpeted in the end, so no problem if you see the weeve of the fibreglass a bit on the outside.

I hope the polyester resin will not interact with my blue foam. I probably should give it a layer of paint and then wax it ? I've read somewhere the wax will make sure you can release the male mold... and I don't know what else I could use or do to make sure I can remove the piece from the mold without problems...

I'd like my throttlebase to have a certain thickness, so I'm guessing I'd need up to 5 layers of weeve. I have enough weeve and resin so no problem. Do I need to let it dry each time, or do I glass layer after layer all at once ?

Please share your comments if you want to.
Kind regards, T.
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Old 18-05-2013, 04:32 PM   #11
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foot throttle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toffy View Post
Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of installing a foot throttle.
I am as far as having everything connected I only need to bolt it on the floor.

However I removed the carpet and vertical footboard and I saw there's a risk of drilling through the hull...
How do I solve this best ? Which materials do I need ? Footprint of the hot foot throttle is about 16cm x 11,5cm. I have good inox pozidriv fastners 4,8x25mm which aren't too long, but long and thick enough to give a solid connection to the floor.
Also I'd like to mount it a bit more to the right side, so the bottom isn't entirely flat overthere...

I'm looking for a solid solution which adds not too much weight also.
I was thinking of glueing a teflon baseplate with TEC7 but this probably won't do it, and is quite heavy I must say. I have no experience in polyestering some wood (what type is best for this?) , but this could be an opportunity ?

See the pics in attachement.
Thanks !
T.
just out of interest why dont you mount it 3-4 inches more to the left away from where you risk screwing thro the hull, you may find that far to the right as you have placed it in pic, you may be driving boat with legs apart and it may be uncomfortable, just my opinion , maybe easier to move it over than building platform etc, heres mine
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Old 18-05-2013, 05:24 PM   #12
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the foam will melt away like snow in the sun.

So dont use it or lay some plastic on it or put tape of it. The styrene will atack the foam instantly.
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Old 18-05-2013, 09:24 PM   #13
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didn't had too much time today, but still managed to make a mold.

@boatnut : good thought. However look at my pic from today : it seems OK. My brother (other pilot) wanted it even more to the right... but that's just too much imo. Makes me wonder : where do P21 owners usually place there footthrottle, should you be able to just screw it in without an extra construction ?

@bigboy : thanks for that remark. "blue foam" shouldn't interact with polyester resin but styrofoam will, so I've read on the internet. However I'm not sure what type of foam I'm using although it's blue. It was melting in the glue I used to put on a wooden baseplate. I'm gonna follow your advice and put tape on top of the male mold. It should also help to seperate the mold from the fiberglass once it's dry. I found out it will be more easy to glass it in when I rotate the baseplate 90degrees, which was in fact the original idea.... see pic.

to be continued
Greets, T.
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Old 19-05-2013, 11:52 AM   #14
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Took another look this morning... Going back to the original idea as it's far more easy and certainly strong enough : glassing in plywood.

To be continued :p
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Old 19-05-2013, 12:10 PM   #15
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Foot plate

Why can't you make the foot plate reach over to the right and bolt the throttle to that ?
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Old 13-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #16
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Hi everyone, time for an update :

I shaped a waterresistant piece of quality wood as in the pictures.
This was a lot of work, but I wanted to get it right.

Then I glassed it in. This was an interesting first experience in fiberglassing. The amount of catalyst you add with the resin is idd quite sensitive. I made 2 mixtures and the last mixture was much longer usable. It seems that there is a real "turning point" as the mixture suddenly becomes harder and no longer usable. I tried to get out as much airbubbles as possible, didn't fully succeed at that, but I'm happy with the result. The white fibre cloth becomes transparent once you apply the mixture and remains that way, I thought it would get a more white or solid look again (gonna check tonight as it's been drying today) I applied 2 layers, and then added a 3rd extra layer only on the sides to make it even stronger.
Also I found this to be a very sticky mess, luckily I was well prepared with gloves. I didn't bother to try and recover my paintbrush, don't really know if it can be cleaned ?

I let it rest and dry further and this weekend I'll put in the screws and carpet.

Grts, T.
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Old 15-06-2013, 09:12 PM   #17
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Done !
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Old 15-06-2013, 09:40 PM   #18
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Did you use epoxy or polyester resin?

I see you used wooven rooving. If you used polyester did you use some csm (chopped strand mat) under it? If not the peel strength wont be that great.
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Old 16-06-2013, 09:45 AM   #19
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I used the standard fix airo kit as mentioned and linked above. High reactivity polyesterresin for a good bond on polystersurface with 330g/m² cloth. I roughed the surface a bit and I even gave the layers different orientation for better strength. I noticed a very good bond and it seems and feels absolute rock solid.
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Old 18-06-2013, 12:44 PM   #20
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Nice work!

Bachelor's wives and maiden's children are always well trained.

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