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Old 20-02-2006, 10:22 PM   #1
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marshan question

im just thinking,while im at the stage iam with motivation,is it worth glassing in some knees to strenthen the transom??
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Old 20-02-2006, 10:59 PM   #2
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What engine ya thinkin of hangin off the back?
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Old 20-02-2006, 11:09 PM   #3
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dont know yet,as big as i can afford,
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Old 20-02-2006, 11:10 PM   #4
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Yes,
on the grounds that if you dont do it now you have to do it all again!!!!!!!! mid season
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Old 20-02-2006, 11:11 PM   #5
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if you are thinking of a 300x then yes any 2.5 , 2.4 etc then i wouldnt bother but then again it wouldnt hurt now would it?? well apart from a little more itching
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Old 20-02-2006, 11:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Burty
if you are thinking of a 300x then yes any 2.5 , 2.4 etc then i wouldnt bother but then again it wouldnt hurt now would it?? well apart from a little more itching
oh how i love scrubing my skin to the point it almost bleeds!
but seriously you think its worth doing now?
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Old 20-02-2006, 11:30 PM   #7
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no idea dude but as i said it can't hurt
ask gav
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Old 21-02-2006, 08:12 AM   #8
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Well it would make the transom stronger and its not going to hurt the boat to do it so you may aswel do it while shes stripped out.
You just need to watch the gap each side of the fuel tank.
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Old 21-02-2006, 12:54 PM   #9
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I`m surpriced...

I`m surpriced that this is not already a part of the construction off the hull Since it is a powerboat I mean..

But then again, how are you going to make it strong enough for the load of an 2.5EFi or a Promax? If the boat is already made without knees and the transom is in place...
On my boat I got the message that I HAD to make the knees first and glass layer after layer between them and out on the knees(last layer in pic by the way), going further and further out on the knees for each layer...to compensate for the pullig and pushing of the motor against the transom.
I will post some pictures for you guys..
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Old 21-02-2006, 12:55 PM   #10
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Then all glassed in..

Five layers in total...
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Old 21-02-2006, 12:59 PM   #11
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Then glued in..

The Divinycell 40mm 200KG/m3 Core that is going to be the transom, used coreglue for this job...

Sorry for the bad pic...

My point is this, it probably won`t compensate fo much anyway, since they are probably going to be attched straight to the transom(?) without any glass on the back of it and out onto the knees..
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Old 21-02-2006, 04:44 PM   #12
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surely if the knees are glassed using a big overlap onto the transon they will take some pressure of the transon??

help please gav
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Old 21-02-2006, 04:59 PM   #13
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Yes, but....

-not as strong as if the transom-"core" (wether it be wood or Divinycell or something else) goes on the outside of this overlap..

That was what I meant..got a little over-eager with the previous answer

I also understand that this is a bit difficult since your boat is already made with the transom without the knees...
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Old 21-02-2006, 05:06 PM   #14
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Don't like the sound of a divinycell transom.

You could always "tie" the knees in with ally angle, using the outboard mounting bolts & bolting through the knees, sort of "belt and braces"

It works for us!!!!!
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Old 21-02-2006, 05:47 PM   #15
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Don`t worry..

Quote:
Originally posted by Tony Davis
Don't like the sound of a divinycell transom.

You could always "tie" the knees in with ally angle, using the outboard mounting bolts & bolting through the knees, sort of "belt and braces"

It works for us!!!!!
Hydrolifts have been buildt like that for a while... In fact the race ones...The other ones is plywood, and plywood rots..
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Old 21-02-2006, 05:50 PM   #16
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Decent quality Marine Ply has a ten year rot proof garantee, and won't 'crush' when you do the motor mount bolts up.

A lot of the B23's had a foam transom, and the motors were forever coming loose as the foam 'gave in' to the abuse.
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Old 21-02-2006, 06:17 PM   #17
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personally i would not use dvinycell on a transom!

MC, i would just make yourself some knees n whack em in for what its worth, use 18mm marine/far eastern ply, grind or router any sharp edges where the glass is laid over.

use 2 layers of 450 csm, 1 x 800 roving, 1 x 600 csm, if you have no roving i can send you enuf to do the job.
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Old 21-02-2006, 07:42 PM   #18
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...........

Quote:
Originally posted by Jon Fuller
Decent quality Marine Ply has a ten year rot proof garantee, and won't 'crush' when you do the motor mount bolts up.

A lot of the B23's had a foam transom, and the motors were forever coming loose as the foam 'gave in' to the abuse.

You have to use a big plate that all of the 4 enigne bolt go thru on the inside of the transom, this is to even out the pressure on the whole transom.

If you just put regular discs on the bolts, then a foam transom will not put up with the abuse as you say..
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Old 21-02-2006, 07:45 PM   #19
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Gav, why?

Why would you not use a Divinycell core?

Sorry about the tread, this probably won`t help michaelcaine with his question but, I`m curious Gav...
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Old 21-02-2006, 08:03 PM   #20
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Re: Gav, why?

Quote:
Originally posted by HydroT20
Why would you not use a Divinycell core?

Sorry about the tread, this probably won`t help michaelcaine with his question but, I`m curious Gav...
no worries,its all interesting reading,gav thanks for the offer,ill have a measure up and be in touch,will be a while,shes being turned over next to start on the hull,thanks again
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