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28-04-2009, 02:08 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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pistons & rings
Does anyone know a good place to get pistons, rings and shells for a 5.7 mercruiser.
Any help will be appreciated as at the moment i have a notverywellcraft and want to go boating.
Thanks john
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28-04-2009, 02:50 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,871
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Send "Marinautic" a PM.
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28-04-2009, 03:25 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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hi matt
thanks for that i have just spoken to a company called real steel and they seem quite good value set of pistons £ 211 + vat
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28-04-2009, 03:38 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: Job Centre
Location: In a box
Occupation: Chaos's gofer
Interests: Skiving
Boat make: Spectre 30
Engines: 2 x Promax 225
Cruising area: In the bath
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In a box
Posts: 5,186
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pistons for a 350 mercruiser are £140+ each from Barrus
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Chaos for Moderator.
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28-04-2009, 03:47 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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dont think i will go to barrus then
so far
pistons 211
rings 32
mains 20
big end 20
cam bearing 14
head set 65
oil pump 25
re-bore 100
all sounding not to bad
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28-04-2009, 05:36 PM
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#7
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,942
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has it had a 'blow up'?
as in, are there loads of bits in the sump that shouldn't be there?
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-04-2009, 09:31 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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Hi Jon
No it got some of that sneaky salty water stuff in it and I, like a tw*t, did not get it out quick enough and it all got a bit corroded, it did not look good. Anyway I water blasted at 40,000psi and that cleaned it up but I will have to go down the re-build route now ho hum never mind.
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29-04-2009, 09:40 AM
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#9
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,942
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OK, a word of advice I would give, if you have any block work done at all (rebore, hone, line bore, or whatever) have all the oil gallery plugs removed and ensure ALL the galleries are DEFINITELY free of debris & foriegn matter. The engine shop I used to use allways did this for me and the block would then go in their huge industial hot/detergent dishwasher thing with a turntable in it, and came out sparkling. A new set of gallery plugs are pennies.
Also, if it has a remote oil cooler or filter head, or both, it's pretty common for 'stuff' left over from the blowup to remain in the pipes, or cooler tubes, or filter head, that gets loose when it's running and nice n hot, and finds it's way into your nice new bearings and bits n bobs.......The circle of life then goes round once again. So ensure all these things are spotless. This could mean replacing the cooler if it's not one you can dismantle (common on yank marine V8's as many are soldered copper)
More often than not, the soft iron, square drive gallery plugs just round off when you try to remove them, hence me always getting the machine shop to do it, as they had the finest set of broach style stud/plug extractors I've ever seen.
Clenliness is next to godliness, at least it is where the engine's bloodline is concerned.
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-04-2009, 09:50 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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cheers for that i will look in to it and which machine shop do you use the one I am planning to use a local one here but need to ask about a bit first to make they are ok.
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29-04-2009, 09:52 AM
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#11
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,942
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I've always used one up here in London, Surbiton to be precise. But I'm sure any decent shop will do it for you.
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-04-2009, 09:58 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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I will try to run it to them today as they will check the crank as it looks ok and measure bores as there does not seem to be any visible marks on the pistons to see what size they are and I dont want to order the wrong ones also need to source risers and manifolds
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29-04-2009, 10:15 AM
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#13
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Engine tester
Country: united kingdom
Location: Southend on Sea
Occupation: Construction
Interests: Gin & Women
Boat name: motorvator
Boat make: Revenger San Marino / Sunseeker Camargue 46 / Phantom 18/19/600
Engines: 502 mercruiser / Detroit 550s / 115 ProXS / Anything Borrowed
Cruising area: Thames, Southend
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 1,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Fuller
I've always used one up here in London, Surbiton to be precise. But I'm sure any decent shop will do it for you.
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If a machine shop weren't going to do it automatically if carrying out machining work on the block then I don't think I'd be happy giving them the work. Pressure relief valves under the oil pump are another area that should be replaced.
As Jon says just good money after bad if everything including heads etc not bought back to pristine cleanliness.
Shit in your engine will do more damage than a right foot ever will.
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"Lend us a motor Chaos"
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29-04-2009, 10:16 AM
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#14
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorvator
Shit in your engine will do more damage than a right foot ever will.
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The moral of this story?....don't shit in your engine! Especially whilst it's running!
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-04-2009, 10:42 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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it looked like someone had shit in the engine when we pulled it apart but our superduper water blaster soon got rid of it. Thanks for the advice i will check out all these things
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29-04-2009, 11:21 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Location: Scotland
Interests: Hole maker
Boat make: Humber Ocean Offshore
Engines: KAD 300/DPX
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Scotland
Posts: 957
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I'll add a couple of things if I may. If you degrease it yourself, keep a tin of thin oil and a brush at the ready and also a squirty can of oil. Degreased cast iron will rust in not much more that a matter of seconds and needs a coat of oil to protect it - over the open surfaces and down the galleries.
Also, make sure the oilways in the crank are clear of old oil contamination debris. This is particularly important if the bigend journals are cross drilled because there will be pockets within the drillings. The spinning of the crank centrifuges debris into these spaces and it can build up to partially close off the oil flow to the big end. It hardens inside the drillings and it is much like clay when it is cleared out. Personal experience here.
For completeness; a mysterious bigend failure when oil pressure throughout the whole engine reads good - check bigend oilways.
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JW.
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29-04-2009, 02:18 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Commercial stuff
Interests: boats & beer
Boat name: Just For Kicks
Boat make: Wellcraft 220xl (antique version)
Engines: Mercruiser 5.7
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 56
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Thanks jw
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29-04-2009, 10:31 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Country: United Kingdom
Location: Essex Boy
Occupation: Jack of all trades
Interests: Fast Boats, Fast Cars, Loose Women
Boat name: 197 / Well Dodgy Too
Boat make: Cyclone 21ft Twin
Engines: 2 x Mercury Offshore ??
Cruising area: Essex Buoy
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Essex Boy
Posts: 179
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cheep engine parts
Just one more thing i have used real steel for parts my self in the past with no problems on automotive aplications but you only get what you pay for and when you do get trouble out there you aint getting a cab home .
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29-04-2009, 11:07 PM
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#19
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Engine tester
Country: united kingdom
Location: Southend on Sea
Occupation: Construction
Interests: Gin & Women
Boat name: motorvator
Boat make: Revenger San Marino / Sunseeker Camargue 46 / Phantom 18/19/600
Engines: 502 mercruiser / Detroit 550s / 115 ProXS / Anything Borrowed
Cruising area: Thames, Southend
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 1,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgy dave
Just one more thing i have used real steel for parts my self in the past with no problems on automotive aplications but you only get what you pay for and when you do get trouble out there you aint getting a cab home .
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I would agree with the sentiment barring the fact that the majority of bits supplied by Realsteel are oem parts either gm or their suppliers. i.e. clevite bearings, and there are very few parts that mercruiser themselves change in a standard block from gm.
Different story of course for a hopped up engine such as a bulldog but even then realsteel can supply aftermarket parts of equivalent or better.
I think this is how people like sterling stay in business
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"Lend us a motor Chaos"
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29-04-2009, 11:11 PM
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#20
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Engine tester
Country: united kingdom
Location: Southend on Sea
Occupation: Construction
Interests: Gin & Women
Boat name: motorvator
Boat make: Revenger San Marino / Sunseeker Camargue 46 / Phantom 18/19/600
Engines: 502 mercruiser / Detroit 550s / 115 ProXS / Anything Borrowed
Cruising area: Thames, Southend
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 1,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Fuller
The moral of this story?....don't shit in your engine! Especially whilst it's running!
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I'm still struggling to get my head round this one. Is it the voice of experience? and if so you've just got to talk us through it
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"Lend us a motor Chaos"
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