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06-10-2008, 04:07 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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rotten floor, battery relocation etc??
ok, taken the boat out of running for a little bit, seein as the weather has deteriorated soo badly recently
the floor in my boat, screws for the foot throttle and seats seem to easily prised and there are cracks in the floor, almost like its pulling away from where its been glassed in
how hard is it to change the floor
not talking how long, as time is kind of on my side, but really whats involved
and if there are any hidden suprises
also, even though i have a bow tank, rings are quite bow light at the best of times. just wondering the implications and the bennifits/ hassel, in terms of perfomance/ weight distribution, if i mount it in the bow, just behinde the bow tank. it is currently mounted on the driverside at the rear, probably the normal place but it does have a tendency to land on that side in the rough, and was hoping this would help
thanks in advance
chris
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06-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Country: Job Centre
Location: In a box
Occupation: Chaos's gofer
Interests: Skiving
Boat make: Spectre 30
Engines: 2 x Promax 225
Cruising area: In the bath
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In a box
Posts: 5,201
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Simple job, you should be able to do it in a weekend as it's only a piece of 3/4" ply, laminated front and back.
Probably take a boat builder 2 weeks!!!!!
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Chaos for Moderator.
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06-10-2008, 05:25 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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probably a silly question now
but what is the best way at getting both of them out??
further inspectio would reveal its really only the glass cracking away from the wood, but IMO would bennifit from new anyway
is there any other materials i can use apposed to ply IE lighter??
i take it the middle bit, where the front seats mount to is glassed in so wont be able to remove??
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06-10-2008, 06:14 PM
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#4
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Traveling
Country: UK
Location: Alderholt
Occupation: Aerospace
Boat name: T/T D2S
Boat make: Midas 27' Cat, Argo 16 Cat. Avon Rib Thingy
Engines: Merc 280-ROS -JSRE,65Xs, 75 Stinger, Yam 60
Cruising area: Any Seedy Bar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Alderholt
Posts: 4,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedom
silly question nowbut what is the best way at getting both of them out??
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very effective & quick
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At least 75% of people who read this will try to lick their elbow!
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06-10-2008, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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silly answer
been cuttin up alot of wood with one of those for the fires recently
donnt think ill be takin it to the floor of my boat mind
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06-10-2008, 07:10 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Davis
Simple job, you should be able to do it in a weekend as it's only a piece of 3/4" ply, laminated front and back.
Probably take a boat builder 2 weeks!!!!!
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Chris, you better allow youself a couple of months then
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06-10-2008, 07:27 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 12
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My little boat is more simple than yours however I've just gone/going through the exercise. I removed the old ply floor and replaced with new marine 9mm ply. Ply was epoxy coated (after cutting to shape) on both sides, particularly the edges. Just to be on the safe side with regard to shape I bought a sheet of hardboard as well and cut this to shape first and used it as a template. I've silicone glued the new floor in place and sealed the edge with silicone as well. Rather than carpet I've used non-slip vinyl sheet. 8" x 4" marine ply (9mm) was £30 from local timber stockist and vinyl sheet (2m x 2m) was £24 off ebay. Took me around 4 days in all.
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06-10-2008, 07:31 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: Job Centre
Location: In a box
Occupation: Chaos's gofer
Interests: Skiving
Boat make: Spectre 30
Engines: 2 x Promax 225
Cruising area: In the bath
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In a box
Posts: 5,201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedom
probably a silly question now
but what is the best way at getting both of them out??
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This would be my weapon of choice!
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Chaos for Moderator.
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06-10-2008, 07:41 PM
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#9
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Davis
Simple job, it's only a piece of 3/4" ply,
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3/4"...you bobby moore?
111KAB, I think I'd like to see it glassed in rahter than just stuck with sillycoon. Sikaflex would be a step better, but lammied in would be preferable..
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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06-10-2008, 07:43 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Country: Job Centre
Location: In a box
Occupation: Chaos's gofer
Interests: Skiving
Boat make: Spectre 30
Engines: 2 x Promax 225
Cruising area: In the bath
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In a box
Posts: 5,201
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Nah, I was aving a bubble !
__________________
Chaos for Moderator.
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06-10-2008, 08:25 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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ok.... im slightly confused
is a grinder the best way of getting them out
also can i use any other materials apart from wood, if not is 3/4" ply the wood to replace with
and i imagine ill glass back in as i wouldnt have a clue how to lammie
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06-10-2008, 08:49 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 12
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I used an angle grinder with a depth guage (set to the thickness of ply I was removing) that way the disc only cut through the rotten ply and nothing else! I couldn't find/think of anything better than marine ply to replace mine with.
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06-10-2008, 09:17 PM
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#13
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Traveling
Country: UK
Location: Alderholt
Occupation: Aerospace
Boat name: T/T D2S
Boat make: Midas 27' Cat, Argo 16 Cat. Avon Rib Thingy
Engines: Merc 280-ROS -JSRE,65Xs, 75 Stinger, Yam 60
Cruising area: Any Seedy Bar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Alderholt
Posts: 4,225
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Time spent removing is time saved later
"Book of John chapter 2 verse 6"
__________________
It is impossible to lick your elbow.
Team25Racing.com
At least 75% of people who read this will try to lick their elbow!
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08-10-2008, 01:55 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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ok
gone through the motions now
front part of the floor is sound and little no no rot whatsover
the back, not good
but the floor is of 1 piece construction front to back
im just wondering my best course of action from here really
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08-10-2008, 09:55 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 12
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Think you will be lucky to find any sheets of marine ply any larger than 8' x 4' (2440 x 1220mm) so presume you will have to join somewhere given the size of your boat. I butted two sheets together and bonded the sheets on the underside so the 'floor' was level. I made sure the two ends were epoxied before joining and I filled the slight gap with silicone filler.
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08-10-2008, 10:03 PM
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#16
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..
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 111KAB
Think you will be lucky to find any sheets of marine ply any larger than 8' x 4' (2440 x 1220mm) so presume you will have to join somewhere given the size of your boat. I butted two sheets together and bonded the sheets on the underside so the 'floor' was level. I made sure the two ends were epoxied before joining and I filled the slight gap with silicone filler.
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No offence but i think you use to much of that "SillyCone" stuff !
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08-10-2008, 10:41 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Country: engalnd
Location: south west
Interests: ski racing
Boat name: Jack'd up, hellraiser
Boat make: Bernico 19 ET, ring 16
Engines: merc 135, merc 175, yam 90
Cruising area: Plymouth
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south west
Posts: 1,176
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well im going to re-do all the stantions, then put a new floor in, but possibly a very thin wood and then fibergalss over the top, but theres a place ive spoken to who do this professionally
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09-10-2008, 01:09 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Country: Wales
Location: Southampton
Occupation: boat driver/Instructor
Interests: boats , laughing and music
Boat name: Dyna Mo Humm
Boat make: Avon Searider 8.4mmmm
Engines: Cat 4216 450hp
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southampton
Posts: 983
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sheathing your deck
if you are going to do that you'll need to put an acelerator on the wood to open the grain and get a good bond. You can get all the stuff from glasplies in Stockport.
this article might help you
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1105
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when I grow up I wanna be Tony Davis
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09-10-2008, 01:13 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 111KAB
Think you will be lucky to find any sheets of marine ply any larger than 8' x 4' (2440 x 1220mm) so presume you will have to join somewhere given the size of your boat. I butted two sheets together and bonded the sheets on the underside so the 'floor' was level. I made sure the two ends were epoxied before joining and I filled the slight gap with silicone filler.
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If you need to join two sheets I've got a biscuit cutter you can borrow this is probably the best way to join two sheets give me a shout if you need it, Nic
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09-10-2008, 01:20 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Windermere
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Windermere
Posts: 559
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I wouldn't recommend butt joints or biscuits for the floor. The strongest way of joining it is scarfing, a very good tutorial is available here:
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitch.../scarfjig2.htm
The longer the scarf the stronger it will be. No kayak jokes please.
If you are relatively handy you don't need to build a jig, I just use an electric hand planer.
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