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Old 21-06-2006, 10:16 AM   #1
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Question set up Ring 16ft Evinrude 140hp

Hi !

I’m new to boatmad and this is my first post, hope you guys can help me…
I own a Ring 16ft with a Evinrude 140hp 2stroke outboard.
It’s for recreational use in the Belgian fresh waters only: speedruns + wakeboarding.

It does about 62 mph at 5900rpm so it’s already a lot of joy…
But I’m an enthusiastic and I’m searching for an even better setup.
Any help is seriously appreciated, all info below.
I have some pics and vids too, I'll try to post them...

Thx ! Toffy





Boat :
Ring 16ft – built around 1980?, new single cable steering, trim buttons on the steering wheel, foot throttle,
fueltank located at the front (90liter), no watertank, fix trim tabs – mechanicaly adjustable by turnbuckles after each run

Engine : never been tuned – good condition
Type : Evinrude V4 – 140hp
Power : 140hp at 5500 RPM
RPM – max : 6000 (ignition cut off at 6700)
Built : 1992
Mod nr : BE 140 T LENS
Weight : 167,9 kg or 368lbs
Gear ratio : 13:26 (=.50)
Gearcase : 20” (508mm)
No noscone nor low water pickup

Setup :
Propeller : Over/thru-hub exhaust 3blade OMC RAKER diam 13 ½” pitch 24 ?? don’t know pitch for sure, don’t have ref numbers
Jackplate : 5 ½” thick, engine height mechanicaly adjustable after each run
vertical distance propshaft centreline below the hull bottom = 100mm (=almost 4inch)
horizontal distance hull -> nose gearbox = 305mm (=12inch)
both measurements while engine is untrimmed off course

Setup test :
I did 1 setup test last weekend : I lifted the engine 15mm (100mm-15mm=85mm)
It gave probably a bit more top end, but also prop ventilation during corner acceleration. Ruines the whole boating experience…
I’m thinking of keeping this engine height and dismantle the fix trimtabs…
I hope this will raise the waterlevel a bit just after the hull and therefore cure the prop ventilation ??
A bit scared though of running without trimtabs, don’t know how this will affect the handling…(more chinewalk?, more difficult to get it plane?)
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Old 21-06-2006, 11:42 AM   #2
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The first thing I would do is to fit the second steering cable. This will transform the handling and make things a lot safer. In the same way at least the top mount should be replaced with a solid ( or drilled and pinned). Once you can drive it to it's max then you can start changing things.
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Old 21-06-2006, 11:45 AM   #3
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you may find you will get chine walk anyway with single cable as you are unable to get the play out of the steering.
For ultimate speed you will need the engine high as this creates less drag as there is less gear case in the water, however you will suffer with acceleration. You could change your jackplate for a hydraulic one that you can adjust whilst on the move this would give you the best of both worlds.
How does the boat run? bow down? or does it run nicely on the back foot of hull?
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Old 21-06-2006, 01:27 PM   #4
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Interests: boating, wakeboarding, snowboarding, fitness
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Dual cable steering and hydraulic jackplates are bount to give good results, but they are a bit expensive... I think

cable steering :
My single cable steering is 3 years old, it's ok for my engine power, the slack is minimal. I'm able to control the chine walk. Anyway, I should have installed a dual cable system 3 years ago but I got bad advice from my supplier....

Could you guys give me advice/price of a good dual cable steering system ? Maybe I'm gonna put on in after all...
Is a hydraulic steering system even better or do you loose 'feeling' with this system... ?

boat handling :
it runs bow flat @ 5000RPM untrimmed.
while trimming out the bow raises a bit, revs go upto 5900RPM. boat is running on the backend of the hull, feels loose and kinda floating

Also it starts to chinewalk, which I try to control with steering movements.
Also it starts to get bumpy : bow goes up and down a bit. This I try to control with untrimming it again... I have a vid that shows this, but I cannot seem to post it...
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Old 21-06-2006, 01:44 PM   #5
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Theoretically, hydraulic is great. in practice however, especially on a single engine boat, you'll be forever grabbing another handfull of wheel, as the system will 'creep' because the helm pump will let a little fluid past each time you turn/correct etc. (you'll always be moving your hands round the wheel as it continually requires a 'left turn' load to counteract the paddle wheel effect fron the prop, assuming it's a right handed prop.)

There's a good argument for double ride guide cable steering for your type of setup. Not as 'cool' though.

It also means you can have your trim buttons on the steering wheel then.
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Old 21-06-2006, 03:29 PM   #6
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Sounds like its running well. As JBD would say loose is fast
It seems you are going as fast as you are going to get with existing setup unless you spend some money.
you may find a little more speed by jacking the motor up more but as you have already found you will loose out on acceleration and handling
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Old 21-06-2006, 04:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Burty
Sounds like its running well. As JBD would say loose is fast
It seems you are going as fast as you are going to get with existing setup unless you spend some money.
you may find a little more speed by jacking the motor up more but as you have already found you will loose out on acceleration and handling
Agreed - Forget the power lift put the engine back to the same height it was, upgrade the steering and what about some NOS? http://www.wizardsofnos.com

Check out the Bike products for your airbox! Nice under £500 as well! for upto another 75HP, would start with the 25HP shot first though.
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:07 PM   #8
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jon Fuller
[B]Theoretically, hydraulic is great. in practice however, especially on a single engine boat, you'll be forever grabbing another handfull of wheel, as the system will 'creep' because the helm pump will let a little fluid past each time you turn/correct etc. (you'll always be moving your hands round the wheel as it continually requires a 'left turn' load to counteract the paddle wheel effect fron the prop, assuming it's a right handed prop.)

There's a good argument for double ride guide cable steering for your type of setup. Not as 'cool' though.

interesting point jon and something as someone considering hydraulic steering never thought of,do you think dual cable is more suited for my boat,what are the pro and cons please?
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:13 PM   #9
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Depends what your going to do with it
twin cable is heavy
also it is a feedback system so if running gearcase high the prop will try and turn the boat right all the time
i had twin cable on mine before i went hydraulic it was great but the big downside was i couldnt go flat out cus i wasnt strong enough to stop the boat turning right
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:14 PM   #10
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Thx for your tips so far ! Quick responses here at boatmad.

Thanks Silversurfer but I wanna leave my engine stock like it is... Although these early 90's V4 Evinrudes are pretty much 'indestructible', I don't wanna mess it up... Also 140hp on a 16ft Ring is kinda a lot... I don't know anyone else with this power on this boat (maybe here on boatmad?) don't wanna tear my boat and transom apart .

Think I'm still gonna test with removing the trimtabs, if that turns out NOK, I'll go back to my original engine-height...
Hope I can test upcoming weekend...

Can you guys still give me some advice upon a good dual cable steering system ? brand and type ?

Greets, T.
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:15 PM   #11
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teleflex morse
you might even be able to add a second cable to your existing system
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:24 PM   #12
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come to think of it burty thats exactly how it behaves on the kona,bloody heavy and pulls to the right, i think blue was selling a dual system helm wasnt he?
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:31 PM   #13
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who's blue?
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:36 PM   #14
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sorry i meant blue fin
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Old 21-06-2006, 06:45 PM   #15
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Yeah he was but the cables were very long!!!
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Old 21-06-2006, 07:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Burty
i had twin cable on mine before i went hydraulic it was great but the big downside was i couldnt go flat out cus i wasnt strong enough to stop the boat turning right
Yeah, but you have far more power, and probably running it way higher.

Don't get me wrong, I like hydraulic stuff, but the creeping drives me nuts. My boat, with twins, and power assistance, still creeps.

I'd really like trim buttons on my wheel, but the only way to do it is with slip rings & brushes on the boss/hub and even then, the switches themselves never end in the same place twice, so you never know which is L or R, up or down.
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Old 21-06-2006, 07:44 PM   #17
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Boat name: Both called ‘Irresistible’.
Boat make: Bernico F1 Twin, Monterey 265SC.
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Cruising area: South and east coasts. Eastbourne Marina.

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I've raced one season with an upgraded Seastar system and I admit to being "old school" but I wouldn't give tuppence for it. I prefer trim buttons on the floor but still don't like those little stalks.
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Old 21-06-2006, 10:46 PM   #18
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Cye had nice trim buttons on his wheel. worked ok for a while till they started to trim up all by themselves and give me electric shocks
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Old 22-06-2006, 08:51 AM   #19
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Rocker switches

Quote:
Originally posted by Jon Fuller
Yeah, but you have far more power, and probably running it way higher.

Don't get me wrong, I like hydraulic stuff, but the creeping drives me nuts. My boat, with twins, and power assistance, still creeps.

I'd really like trim buttons on my wheel, but the only way to do it is with slip rings & brushes on the boss/hub and even then, the switches themselves never end in the same place twice, so you never know which is L or R, up or down.
On the Bernico I had three rocker switches mounted on a equally pitched Rex three spoke wheel, by pushing any of the buttons towards the outside of the wheel the engine trimmed up, and inside of the wheel - trim down.
This way when the helm would creep you always had a trim button within reach.

Burty stated that the motor would start to trim it self, this is correct, I had 2 ropey switches from Mercury that would stick after about 2 weeks use.
Can't remember any electric shocks tho?
Once the switches were replaced the system worked well.

Cyco
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Old 22-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #20
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Re: set up Ring 16ft Evinrude 140hp

Quote:
Originally posted by Toffy
Hi !

I’m new to boatmad and this is my first post, hope you guys can help me…
I own a Ring 16ft with a Evinrude 140hp 2stroke outboard.
It’s for recreational use in the Belgian fresh waters only: speedruns + wakeboarding.

It does about 62 mph at 5900rpm so it’s already a lot of joy…
But I’m an enthusiastic and I’m searching for an even better setup.
Any help is seriously appreciated, all info below.
I have some pics and vids too, I'll try to post them...

Thx ! Toffy





Boat :
Ring 16ft – built around 1980?, new single cable steering, trim buttons on the steering wheel, foot throttle,
fueltank located at the front (90liter), no watertank, fix trim tabs – mechanicaly adjustable by turnbuckles after each run

Engine : never been tuned – good condition
Type : Evinrude V4 – 140hp
Power : 140hp at 5500 RPM
RPM – max : 6000 (ignition cut off at 6700)
Built : 1992
Mod nr : BE 140 T LENS
Weight : 167,9 kg or 368lbs
Gear ratio : 13:26 (=.50)
Gearcase : 20” (508mm)
No noscone nor low water pickup

Setup :
Propeller : Over/thru-hub exhaust 3blade OMC RAKER diam 13 ½” pitch 24 ?? don’t know pitch for sure, don’t have ref numbers
Jackplate : 5 ½” thick, engine height mechanicaly adjustable after each run
vertical distance propshaft centreline below the hull bottom = 100mm (=almost 4inch)
horizontal distance hull -> nose gearbox = 305mm (=12inch)
both measurements while engine is untrimmed off course

Setup test :
I did 1 setup test last weekend : I lifted the engine 15mm (100mm-15mm=85mm)
It gave probably a bit more top end, but also prop ventilation during corner acceleration. Ruines the whole boating experience…
I’m thinking of keeping this engine height and dismantle the fix trimtabs…
I hope this will raise the waterlevel a bit just after the hull and therefore cure the prop ventilation ??
A bit scared though of running without trimtabs, don’t know how this will affect the handling…(more chinewalk?, more difficult to get it plane?)

Try Changing the position of the fuel tank to the rear of the boat.
Also mount any other items such as battery or trim pump at the drivers side rear of the boat, this will improve the handling and help lift the bow out of the water.

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