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20-01-2007, 01:18 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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Trim Pump
I've got a trim pump that came off an early inshore F1 Cat, but the hose fittings I have (offshore) are too large and the holes that the fluid comes out of the bottom of the pump are tiny. Does anyone know if I can just change or convert the hose fittings or do I need a specific hose? Apparently they used to run them on 24v to give quicker response although it's a 12v pump.
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20-01-2007, 06:11 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Birmingham
Occupation: Scratching
Interests: Big Dinners
Boat name: Never Enough
Boat make: Seaquel 600xs
Engines: 225hp Merc ProMax
Cruising area: Anywhere! I prefer Weymouth
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 3,232
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speak to moreland hose on S&F
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I got jumper cables!
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20-01-2007, 08:53 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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Cheers
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20-01-2007, 10:46 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Hertfordshire
Occupation: Airline Operations.
Interests: Rum. Pirates. And West Cornwall pasties.
Boat name: Any suggestions?
Boat make: Ring 18
Engines: Mercury 200 Black Max
Cruising area: The Bay of 'E'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 369
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I had a similar problem on a car a few years back (Hydraulic hoses, not trim pumps!) and my local hose specialist (Pirtek) made me up a custom set in two days and charged 25% of what the main dealer wanted for the same bits.
Apparently most hydraulic hoses have standard fittings, and any decent specialist can assemble a set with whatever fittings you want within reason.
I'll probably use them again when it comes time to fit a hydraulic system to my Ring 18 in the spring if the hoses supplied with the kit are cack.
Running a 12v pump on 24v sounds like a recipe for disaster and a short pump life! Why didn't they just run a higher capacity or higher pressure pump?
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Boat: (Noun) - A hole in the water, lined with fibreglass, into which you pour money.
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21-01-2007, 10:20 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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"Running a 12v pump on 24v sounds like a recipe for disaster and a short pump life! Why didn't they just run a higher capacity or higher pressure pump?"
Don't know , but it must have worked ok as he finished 2nd in the F1 World Championship one year.
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21-01-2007, 12:37 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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you wont get any fittings from pirtek, US is your best bet. you sure you don't just need a couple of brass reducers as the 15 and 12" mids used flexy trim hoses
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21-01-2007, 01:16 PM
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#7
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BananaShark Member
Country: UK
Location: Salcombe South Devon
Occupation: Racer and builder
Interests: Winning races
Boat name: BananaShark
Boat make: BananaShark 34' Race
Engines: Twin Yanmar BY 260's
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Salcombe South Devon
Posts: 4,638
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They run them at 24v to trim in quickly at the corners and 12v to trim out I believe - been doing that way for a long time!
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Cookee
British Champions! RIB Formula 1 2005
National Speed Record Holder at 90.15 (still)
www.bananasharkracing.com
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21-01-2007, 01:31 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Birmingham
Occupation: Scratching
Interests: Big Dinners
Boat name: Never Enough
Boat make: Seaquel 600xs
Engines: 225hp Merc ProMax
Cruising area: Anywhere! I prefer Weymouth
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 3,232
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Does it knacker the pump quickly running it on 24v?
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I got jumper cables!
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21-01-2007, 04:58 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Hertfordshire
Occupation: Airline Operations.
Interests: Rum. Pirates. And West Cornwall pasties.
Boat name: Any suggestions?
Boat make: Ring 18
Engines: Mercury 200 Black Max
Cruising area: The Bay of 'E'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike k
Don't know , but it must have worked ok as he finished 2nd in the F1 World Championship one year.
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I'd be curious to know what sort of lifespan he gets out of the pumps though. Maybe there's something in the rules about only using a specified type of pump or something? I don't know.
Running any electrical device on double it's design voltage will have consequences though. I admit I know dick about boats, but I was an autoelectrician for ten years!
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Boat: (Noun) - A hole in the water, lined with fibreglass, into which you pour money.
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21-01-2007, 10:45 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burty
you wont get any fittings from pirtek, US is your best bet. you sure you don't just need a couple of brass reducers as the 15 and 12" mids used flexy trim hoses
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Not sure what I'll need. I think there's a hydraulic hose place on Slough Trading Estate. When I next get a day off I'll take the pump and the hoses to them and see what they can do.
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25-01-2007, 07:40 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Country: UK
Occupation: IT Consultant
Boat name: G4, Missconduct
Boat make: DAC, Phantom 18
Engines: Mercury 280 ROS, Mercury 280 + S3000 electrics
Cruising area: Windermere & Barrow
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee
They run them at 24v to trim in quickly at the corners and 12v to trim out I believe - been doing that way for a long time!
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24v in and out as they need a quick trim out when exiting the corner to get the air under them for fast acceleration, before trimming in slightly when the speed gets up so they don't flip. I suspect the pumps may wear out slightly quicker due to the parts moving faster etc but I'm not aware of it being a major issue as both F1 and F2 continue to run 24v.
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28-01-2007, 07:45 PM
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#12
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hello
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,739
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The higher voltage will cause greater current flow which will consiquently heat the motor windings and brushes up more. If the motor was running continuously at twice the voltage it would probably burn out the windings and/or brushes fairly quickly. However trim pump motors only run for short durations and then have a chance to cool again. You can run a DC motor on a higher voltage for greater performance its all down to keeping those brushes and windings cool. Alot also depends on the motor too, some are built better than others so can tolerate being over volted more than others. Twice the voltage is a bit extreme but if it built well enough it may be able to handle the heat with no probs. Either way though it will always live longer on a lower voltage.
This is the motor I was going to use in my R/C boat for that mini boat race we had planned a year or so ago. Its a 7.2V motor and I was going to run it on 9.6V. They do a 9.6V version of this motor but that would only go the same speed on 9.6V as my 7.2V one would on 7.2V, what would be the point in that eh. So the secret is to get a lower voltage version and run it on a higher voltage and find a way to keep it cool. Obviously I didn't tell anyone this back then . Notice the heatsink and water cooled brushes in the piccy!!! This is a good quality motor and with the addition of water cooling for the case can be used on upto 12V, gets somewhat unreilable at those voltages though.
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28-01-2007, 11:59 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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I used to have a little model offshore cat called a Key West that we used to run on 24 cells, this was on a 7.2 water cooled motor using micro switches as a speed controller to run two sets of 12 1.2v cells series / parallel. All the cells stuffed down each side and up the sponsons, went bloody quick and lasted for a suprisingly long time until it decided turn left whilst going full tilt and the batteries went straight on, through the side of the hull...
It's amazing the voltage that some of these little motors will take as long as they are kept cool.
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05-02-2007, 09:19 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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Hellcat
We use 24V out and 12V in, you want the boat to pop up very quickly, but more controlled coming down, the "Oildyne"/Mercury pumps work fine using this set up, but some of the smaller ones would probably struggle.
I still use this set up now on the new SL250, using the Evinrude 3.3 E-TEC; I also use electric power steering on this model, if anyone is interested, give me a call, as this would work on many boats.
Nigel
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05-02-2007, 06:04 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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Where do you get the 24volts from dude?? carry 2 batteries?
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05-02-2007, 07:20 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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Hellcat
Yes, 2 x batteries!
Nigel
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14-02-2007, 06:23 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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Success......Pirtek sorted me out some fittings and made up a couple of conversiion hoses.
But............when wired up I'm only getting one speed up and down ie when it's trimming up and it gets to the tilt position it doesn't change speed.
Any idea's
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14-02-2007, 06:32 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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i have an idea!!!! the remote pumps dont change speed!!!
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14-02-2007, 09:46 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Country: Scotland
Location: Kirkcudbright
Interests: Boats n Lambrettas
Boat make: Boatless
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcudbright
Posts: 978
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Oh well , you live and learn. Many thanks
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