Water level - Page 2

Matt · 13-04-2006, 01:35 PM

I attached some temperature strips to the top of my drives once - the surface of the housing appeared to reach up to 70C.

Carl · 13-04-2006, 01:42 PM

i was thinking about a drive shower for mine,but is really needed,or a bit over the top for normal usage............any thoughts? ps its a bravo 1

Matt · 13-04-2006, 01:57 PM

According to someone on fibnet I don't know much about boats, he is correct, so I really don't feel qualified to offer an opinion.

What motor have you ended up with?

Matt · 13-04-2006, 01:59 PM

Duh. Merc 350 mag mpi.

jw. · 13-04-2006, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Matt
I attached some temperature strips to the top of my drives once - the surface of the housing appeared to reach up to 70C.

That's pretty warm considering the surface area. I bet the temperature between the gear teeth was high.

I guess there will be little cooling because most of the drive is out of the water and there won't be much breeze at the back of the transom. If running for a while, the heat may build up.

Matt · 13-04-2006, 02:24 PM

I reckon so. Even in neutral running on the hose produces enough heat to be noticeable. Having said that, they've lasted 18 years (touch wood). And Jon & Tony raced with 450 ish hp without a shower.

Rockey · 13-04-2006, 04:49 PM

for what they cost better to have one than not

jw. · 15-10-2006, 07:56 PM

Just finishing off a thread. Exhaust through the transom idea was scrapped.

jw. · 15-10-2006, 07:59 PM

.

jw. · 15-10-2006, 08:07 PM

.

jw. · 15-10-2006, 08:09 PM

Ran the engine and it's fine so far. Out on the water next Wednesday.

Matt · 15-10-2006, 09:02 PM

Nice job jw. Looks like a very tight fit.

jw. · 15-10-2006, 10:13 PM

Thanks Matt.

The picture foreshortens the view and it does look a bit tight but it's actually OK.

Jon Fuller · 17-10-2006, 08:42 AM

Nice work!

Just out of curiosity, why did you not jacket it right up to, or as close as possible to the turbo?

Were you concerned about cracking, and the water running back down the hill, so to speak?

What lagging material did you use? It's hard to tell from the pic. On my original setup with lagged 'Y' sections between the manifolds and the turbos.
I used a glass 'tape' style lagging and then a fine woven glass cloth with very thin ali foil backing as a finisher, which looked really nice, till the first time it got a hint of salt, then it was gone in a flash. I ended up re covering with a woven glass cloth reinforced silicon material, really good stuff, and obviously not affected by the salt. Used a fine S/S locking wire to bind it on.

jw. · 17-10-2006, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jon Fuller
[B]Nice work!

Thank you sir.

Quote:

Just out of curiosity, why did you not jacket it right up to, or as close as possible to the turbo? Were you concerned about cracking, and the water running back down the hill, so to speak?

Yes regarding the water but not so much cracking as time related corrosion. There is a wee join between the manifold section and the down pipe section to prevent flexing.

Quote:

What lagging material did you use? It's hard to tell from the pic.

I kept an asbestos fire blanket for the day I might have a use for it. It's bound with coper wire and sealed to prevent it drying and becoming dusty. It's wrapped with an aluminised heat resistant fabric which, I guess, is glass. I made it up as a wee jacket stitching the darts and edges with copper wire. It's held in place with stainless bands designed for the job.

I didn't think about the effect of salt water on the aluminised surface but there's been very little sign of any water in the engine compartment so fingers crossed. Those odd tube air ducts sticking up at the back of the boat are designed to centrifuge the water from the air before it enters the engine box.

I've a plan to make a flap to fit inside the exhaust outlet at the bottom of the transom shield for a bit more security.