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Old 28-03-2018, 02:32 PM   #1
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Waterproof underwater connectors

My Bravo 3 trim senders seem to have a life of 2 or 3 years before they fail, and when they fail the outdrives need to be backed off to allow the new wires to be threaded through - making it a "big job" not just 10 minutes to swap out the senders.

Am now thinking to have the wires come out through the outdrives but then cut them and put them into a waterproof connecting block - then re-joining them with the "new" wire tails off the new sender.

Any clever ideas?

40-something knot boat so there's a fair amount of friction and water movement around the drives...
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Old 28-03-2018, 08:03 PM   #2
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Screwfix MAY have a solution. Can't remember the part number.
It's an IP65(?) gel filled connector suitable for at least a couple of cables.
Try a search, if you can't find it, get back to me.
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Old 30-03-2018, 08:17 PM   #3
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Might be a bit large, (they arnt really) but these are pretty good:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Sd20-4-4-Pi...L5p/1987258535
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:47 PM   #4
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That's the idea..... if I can seal the ends enough then they should be okay to immerse.

Cheers!
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Old 02-04-2018, 07:50 PM   #5
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I'll be interested to know the conclusions on this one, Athito.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:55 AM   #6
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These are really good you crimp them like a normal butt connector then heat it up which shrinks the heat shrink and also melts the glue inside and makes a waterproof connection aslong as it has been done properly

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F121214389438

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Old 05-04-2018, 10:01 AM   #7
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IP rating for permanent immersion should be at least IP 67.

IP64 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from water spray from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP65 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from low pressure water jets from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP66 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from high pressure water jets from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP67 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from immersion between 15 centimetres and 1 metre in depth, limited ingress protection
IP68 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from long term immersion up to a specified pressure, limited ingress protection
IP69K Protected from total dust ingress Protected from steam-jet cleaning, limited ingress protection
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:25 AM   #8
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edit to the above:
IP rating for permanent immersion should be at least IP 67. IP stands for ingress protection. The first number refers to solid particles (dust) and the second number refers to liquids. The definitions for the second digit are given below. Further reading (internet searches!) will show what tests are required fora product for it to achieve an IP rating.

4 Protected against splash water from any direction.
5 Protected against low pressure water jets from any direction. Limited ingress permitted.
6 Protected against high pressure water jets from any direction. Limited ingress permitted.
7 Protected against short periods of immersion in water.
8 Protected against long, durable periods of immersion in water.

Toger's idea for a "potted" solution is like many marine environment electrical equipment where the entire connection or electrical enclosure is filled with resin e.g. often used for underwater connectors such as on bilge/salvage pumps. HOWEVER, as they are glued ("potted") you cannot simply disconnect them as they are encased in resin.

Have you considered running the cables through the hull as they are now, but then running them upwards outside of the hull to a more protected level/height e.g. just above the static waterline and make the connection there? IP 65 might then be OK.
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Old 05-04-2018, 12:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleSix View Post
Have you considered running the cables through the hull as they are now, but then running them upwards outside of the hull to a more protected level/height e.g. just above the static waterline and make the connection there? IP 65 might then be OK.
Yep - am thinking about this....

Cheers for the thoughts on IP rating as well....
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Old 05-04-2018, 04:35 PM   #10
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...Or developing the idea still further, you could make a further penetration in the transom and run the fixed/permanent cable back inboard and make the connection there, and then run the "renewable" cable back out through the same penetration?

(Clearly this is more interesting than my real work is today !!)
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:27 PM   #11
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Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
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Old 30-04-2018, 05:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
Probably the best idea yet....what "resin" would you use??? Not something I am that familiar with.....
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
I agree. Heatshrink/glue crimps or resin filled joints. I had a couple of heatshrink/gluecrimps fail last year, they were very short and cheap looking so I now also heat shrink sleeve over top. Resin filled joints are perfect for permanent immersion
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glen76 View Post
I agree. Heatshrink/glue crimps or resin filled joints. I had a couple of heatshrink/gluecrimps fail last year, they were very short and cheap looking so I now also heat shrink sleeve over top. Resin filled joints are perfect for permanent immersion
Yes, it is the best waterproof solution but the original objective was to make it a quick or renewable joint which a heat shrink resin fill isn't.
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:25 AM   #15
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I think by quick he was meaning cutting and joining the wires on the outside of the boat rather than removing the drive and feeding them inside the boat and finding the connections?

Si
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Old 07-06-2018, 02:02 AM   #16
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RS Components is the place to go for one of their milspec IP rated connectors.
Screwfix - no way for something like this.
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