Hull design I would guess.
I rarely use the belly or bow tank unless it's a really rough ski race.
You drive this boat on the tabs which makes it very stable and it's rides level unlike the phantoms which always ride bow high.
I can load 750-800 kg of water in the two tanks if I need to.
This helps with flatting out the wake for ski racing.
The boat is more stable than anything else that I have driven our riden in, which is not always good when your skiing off the back as the crew think that the water is flatter than it is and tend to go quicker.
I would suggest fitting tabs to yours, ask Burty how different his boat is now with the big tabs.
A short shaft motor makes a nice difference on a P20 as well (lower C of G)
with a short shaft it will be to low an dunk the engine in the water when you stop ,wouldent it?
just looked at your boat in the readers rides ..why dont you have a jackplate?
intrested ,why dont you have a bump strip on your boat?
Originally posted by Cyco Ally plate are you sure?
The plate in the lower cowl should be stainless steel not ali.
Hydro what materail do you plan to use for your plates.
Cyco, I bought a couple of plates from the US, got them yesterday, they are def. 100% aluminium!
I mainly bought them for a template to make more, why shouldnt they be aluminium the engine and exhaust plate are!
You sent me a PM about these before, can you supply these plates, and £££??? PM me, thanks
Mike, yeah, I forgot to mention that about the bolts, some people find their studs are a little short, but I looked at mine and they look ok!
Mike pm me if you would likea quote for these.
I would need you to send me a plate to copy.
Also state what amount you would like to order these in.
I will do them for a very competitve price.
Material will be 3mm stainless steel.
Oh the reason that mercury use Ali for the exhaust divder plate and the exhaust leg is that they are cast, these components are then Zinc coated prior to being painted.
remember bare untreated ali won't last last in salt water.
The Mercury plate is mild steel with a zinc pasivate coating.
This in my opinion would be around the same money or slightly more, and does not last very long before going bad.
take a look at the plate on your existing cowling as an example.
Ok, heres some pics of the first cowl.
This one was just a trial run to figure it all out, how much glass etc. I'm going to spray the gel in future, used far to much gelcoat in this one! Turned out ok except for I thought I'd work outside today as it was quite nice and I left my mask in work. Well the sun kicked the resin too quick and I didn't get to roll down the glass in one of the curves. It's ok I'll fix it later and use this one myself.
Now a bit of bad news, I first noticed yesterday while pollishing the mold, the mold has a couple of hairline cracks in it and they have transfered to the cowl. I'm thinking about what to do about this, might spray them in gel again but that's alot of work.