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Old 01-04-2005, 07:35 AM   #101
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You might find, as I did, that you need to change the two front powerhead studs due to the extra thickness of the ally plate.
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:02 AM   #102
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Question Ally Plate

Ally plate are you sure?
The plate in the lower cowl should be stainless steel not ali.
Hydro what materail do you plan to use for your plates.
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:13 AM   #103
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It's a bit early for me , I meant stainless.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:28 AM   #104
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sorry peoply a bit off the subject , cyco how quick is your boat?, have you got any pictures of it in the water
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:23 PM   #105
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About 83-84mph at 8400prm
Yes I do have a couple of pics of it on the water will sort them out over the weekend.

The Lighten prop makes it quick from holeshot to WOT.

It's also worth noting that this boat is unbelivable in the corners at high speed, is is very stable throughout the speed range.

Phantoms will not touch this thing on cornering, and I like phantoms.

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Old 01-04-2005, 12:28 PM   #106
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why is it so goot at cornering ? is it because its got a belly tank which lowers the center of gravity?
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:48 PM   #107
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Hull design I would guess.
I rarely use the belly or bow tank unless it's a really rough ski race.
You drive this boat on the tabs which makes it very stable and it's rides level unlike the phantoms which always ride bow high.
I can load 750-800 kg of water in the two tanks if I need to.
This helps with flatting out the wake for ski racing.
The boat is more stable than anything else that I have driven our riden in, which is not always good when your skiing off the back as the crew think that the water is flatter than it is and tend to go quicker.


I would suggest fitting tabs to yours, ask Burty how different his boat is now with the big tabs.
A short shaft motor makes a nice difference on a P20 as well (lower C of G)
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:52 PM   #108
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with a short shaft it will be to low an dunk the engine in the water when you stop ,wouldent it?
just looked at your boat in the readers rides ..why dont you have a jackplate?
intrested ,why dont you have a bump strip on your boat?
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:59 PM   #109
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No power lift needed as the hull has built in setback.
Also the boat is stable enough not to need to alter the engine height for different conditions.

No rubbing strip needed as I don't intend to rub it against things.
I spec'd this when it was built, looks far better in my opinion.

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Old 01-04-2005, 01:00 PM   #110
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Bump strip................coz he's a flash git who loves everything to look the bollix

and that, it certainly does!
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:00 PM   #111
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beat me to it
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:02 PM   #112
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i'll second that it does look awsome!
cyco can you get the bump strip removed so it looks like yours after the boats been built?
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:06 PM   #113
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Captain Chaos what engines have you got to offer me then ?
(in ref to the pm you sent me)
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:17 PM   #114
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Re: Ally Plate

Quote:
Originally posted by Cyco
Ally plate are you sure?
The plate in the lower cowl should be stainless steel not ali.
Hydro what materail do you plan to use for your plates.
Cyco, I bought a couple of plates from the US, got them yesterday, they are def. 100% aluminium!
I mainly bought them for a template to make more, why shouldnt they be aluminium the engine and exhaust plate are!

You sent me a PM about these before, can you supply these plates, and £££??? PM me, thanks

Mike, yeah, I forgot to mention that about the bolts, some people find their studs are a little short, but I looked at mine and they look ok!

Alan
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Old 01-04-2005, 03:16 PM   #115
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Mike pm me if you would likea quote for these.
I would need you to send me a plate to copy.
Also state what amount you would like to order these in.

I will do them for a very competitve price.
Material will be 3mm stainless steel.

Oh the reason that mercury use Ali for the exhaust divder plate and the exhaust leg is that they are cast, these components are then Zinc coated prior to being painted.
remember bare untreated ali won't last last in salt water.

The Mercury plate is mild steel with a zinc pasivate coating.
This in my opinion would be around the same money or slightly more, and does not last very long before going bad.
take a look at the plate on your existing cowling as an example.
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Old 01-04-2005, 05:47 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by TheMutzNuts
sorry peoply a bit off the subject , cyco how quick is your boat?, have you got any pictures of it in the water
here you go best i got wiv my shitty camera
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:13 PM   #117
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Cheers Burty ,nice 1
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:55 PM   #118
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Cye do you do the bracket with the pin to hold the alien couling on ,if so how much? ( i mean the one that is on top of the couling)
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:02 PM   #119
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Cowls

OK, just finnished laying up. First one will be out of the mold this evening. At last!!!

These are a real pain in the ass to make, BIG TIME!

Will post pics later...
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:08 PM   #120
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Arrow Pics

Ok, heres some pics of the first cowl.
This one was just a trial run to figure it all out, how much glass etc. I'm going to spray the gel in future, used far to much gelcoat in this one! Turned out ok except for I thought I'd work outside today as it was quite nice and I left my mask in work. Well the sun kicked the resin too quick and I didn't get to roll down the glass in one of the curves. It's ok I'll fix it later and use this one myself.

Now a bit of bad news, I first noticed yesterday while pollishing the mold, the mold has a couple of hairline cracks in it and they have transfered to the cowl. I'm thinking about what to do about this, might spray them in gel again but that's alot of work.

Ideas??? Gav??


Well heres the pics...







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