Bosch Fuel Pump Now Nackered!!

RossM · 20-04-2007, 12:39 PM

Found out yesterday that the casing of our Fuel Pump has a hole in it, So now when you turn the ignition on fuel pisses out of it!

We brought it off Roofer last year (brand new) and the boats only been used 3 times and now this!!

Any idea if it will be covered by any warranty?

surely it is a manufacturing fault?

Its Model #0 580 254 984

Matt · 20-04-2007, 01:02 PM

What sorta hole?
Corrosion Pinhole?
Crack?
Proper Hole with edges curled in?
Proper Hole with edges curled out?

Burty · 20-04-2007, 01:20 PM

where abouts is the hole?
Clamped up too tight with bracket??

RossM · 20-04-2007, 01:24 PM

see pic.
Matt, Check your email, i have sent a vid of it.

Matt · 20-04-2007, 01:31 PM

What I'm seeing is a soft aluminium bodied fuel pump with a corrosion hole in it. Bearing in mind you filled the boat up with water at the poker run, it's not really a big surprise.

RossM · 20-04-2007, 01:33 PM

lol yeah, but it got washed out big timeeee soon as we get the boat out, and out last outing was in fresh water(the outing after the poker run)

Matt · 20-04-2007, 01:40 PM

Just hosing out doesn't really remove salt that effectively. Especially since once the corrosion process starts and you get a small bit of pitting or a crevice the surface area increases massively so the corrosion rate goes right up. It could have started out as a scratch or something. There's also psobbibly a bit of a mix of metals going on, or a stray current somewhere.

Burty · 20-04-2007, 01:55 PM

You're right about the corrosion look at the rust on the positive nut, that can't help to make a good contact. Can't see them replacing it under warrenty.
How is it held in dude? was the clamp around the area that has carroded?

RossM · 20-04-2007, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

Just hosing out doesn't really remove salt that effectively. Especially since once the corrosion process starts and you get a small bit of pitting or a crevice the surface area increases massively so the corrosion rate goes right up. It could have started out as a scratch or something. There's also psobbibly a bit of a mix of metals going on, or a stray current somewhere.

it was where the fuel hose was touching it where it corroded.

RossM · 20-04-2007, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burty

You're right about the corrosion look at the rust on the positive nut, that can't help to make a good contact. Can't see them replacing it under warrenty.
How is it held in dude? was the clamp around the area that has carroded?

Well i made up a metal bracket to hold the fuel pump on, but because i made a ally angle mount to hold all the hyd pumps etc so it would hold the weight further forward and also keep the sides free, it turned out it was ground because of the the pumps so when the casing of the pump touched it, it would make the pump kick in so i had to use cable ties and mount it on a peice of rubber for tempary measure.
see pic, the angle that holds the belly tank down also had a ally angle bridge which holds all the pumps, that way theres no extra holes drilled in the boat

RossM · 20-04-2007, 02:37 PM

this is the back.
I have also just found why we nearly sunk at the poker run!
as we had 2 skin fittings at the back of the boat (1 each side) we chose to run the bowtank over flow down the sides of the boat and to the skin fittings at the back, the right water over flow had come off and was just sitting by the back of the transom!

jw. · 20-04-2007, 07:23 PM

Take a piece of fuel hose a couple of inches long, split it lengthwise using a stanley knife. Open it up and put it over the leak. If it's too wide just slice it down. Fit a wide hose clip around the pump and over the rubber, be sure to get it all aligned and snug fitting and then tighten it.

And before you give me a slagging for suggesting such a thing with petrol under pressure, give it a try.

It may be a good idea to wash the area with water first to remove any salt residue.

And put some stainless fasteners onto those electrical connections.

OCRDA · 20-04-2007, 10:19 PM

Don't be so tight just buy a new one !! they are'nt expensive.

Bob

RossM · 20-04-2007, 10:30 PM

100 quid is alot to be spending if it only lasts 3 outings!

Matt · 20-04-2007, 10:52 PM

Stick a small anode on it next time.

jw. · 21-04-2007, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PuppiesBalls

.. it turned out it was ground because of the the pumps so when the casing of the pump touched it, it would make the pump kick in so i had to use cable ties and mount it on a peice of rubber...

Does that mean the pump body is live?

Burty · 21-04-2007, 12:59 AM

i dont understand either????
makes it sound like sommat is wrong

BluFin · 21-04-2007, 07:41 AM

How old is the pump, establish that first.....
Just got a "New" flap track for a 727 straight from boeing, brand spanking from the maker. found a manufacture date on it 1968. A New 280 is now 2 years old.
Dont know if I like the sound of the pump kicking in sounds like something is on a short. Pop a multimeter on it in situ and see what volts / resistance reading you get, just sounds a bit ?????.
Those pump bodies are pretty thin from memory so dont take a lot to break through, well worth putting a couple of coats of etch primer on to slow down the process.

"we chose to run the bowtank over flow down the sides of the boat and to the skin fittings at the back"

EEEEK all that extra weight of 15 foot or so of hose, you need a diet ya go quicker

RossM · 21-04-2007, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jw.

Does that mean the pump body is live?

o.k, basicly my whole ally angle bracket holding all the pumps is -ive because the hydraulic pumps are bolted directly to it and these have to be grounded -ive.
The pump has a perminant live(fused), and the -ive is controlled by the ecu, so when the ignition is turned on it primes up the system which takes 10 seconds, then the pump cuts out, when the engine is running the pump is always on.
The casing on the pump is -ive so if it touches the -ive ally mount then it runs.
Burty, No its not wrong, It's just controlled via the ecu, where as yours is controlled by a manual switch.

RossM · 21-04-2007, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BluFin

How old is the pump, establish that first.....
Just got a "New" flap track for a 727 straight from boeing, brand spanking from the maker. found a manufacture date on it 1968. A New 280 is now 2 years old.
Dont know if I like the sound of the pump kicking in sounds like something is on a short. Pop a multimeter on it in situ and see what volts / resistance reading you get, just sounds a bit ?????.
Those pump bodies are pretty thin from memory so dont take a lot to break through, well worth putting a couple of coats of etch primer on to slow down the process.

"we chose to run the bowtank over flow down the sides of the boat and to the skin fittings at the back"

EEEEK all that extra weight of 15 foot or so of hose, you need a diet ya go quicker

Pump age??........Roofer?
im going to take all the ally stuff out of the boat and etch primer it now as weve got some in the garage.

lol, well it was a choice of drilling another 2 holes in the boat or having an extra 2kgs of hose at most and running them to the back to 2 perfercly decent skin fittings!