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Old 10-05-2012, 08:31 AM   #41
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its incredibly frustrating how long the last bits seem to take on projects like this, especially one as involved as this one. loving the work your doing its going to be fantastic,
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Old 15-05-2012, 09:03 PM   #42
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Have a polytunnel now and can now carry on even when raining, best money I ever spent. Got most of the engine bay components mounted now and most hose routes sorted. At last feel like I am getting somewhere with it now.
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Old 17-05-2012, 01:44 AM   #43
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Drive Height

Mounted the drive tonight and measured the drive height. From the bottom of the anti ventilation plate to the bottom of the hull is 2 inches and with the IMCO 2 inch shorty this me 7 inches from bottom of boat to prop shaft centre line. Hope it runs OK as bit late to change it now.

Does anyone know what height the Cougar Honda 225 ran as standard ?
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Old 22-05-2012, 12:39 AM   #44
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Marked out the drive steering center line yesterday ready to make the brackets for the twin IMCO rams.

First leveled the boat
Then leveled the inner transom drive plate.
The leveled the anti ventilation plate
Then used a laser level to mark the drive center line
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Old 22-05-2012, 12:48 AM   #45
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Today made the transom brackets for the steering rams from 316 stainless. I had to make them with an offset because you cant get to the inner transom outer edges for the inner nuts. Because of the offset I made the plates larger than standard and use 3 x M10 bolts on each one. Tig welded them, then poished them.
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Old 22-05-2012, 01:13 PM   #46
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I don't want to criticize but your relying a lot on your welds, I would consider beefing them up a bit. I think they will see some interesting loads. Obviously feel free to completely ignore me, that will probably work as well.
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Old 22-05-2012, 08:46 PM   #47
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I don't want to criticize but your relying a lot on your welds, I would consider beefing them up a bit. I think they will see some interesting loads. Obviously feel free to completely ignore me, that will probably work as well.
Many thanks for your reply Techteem. Part the reason for posting is this is my first build of this type with no boat racing experience, so comments of this type are gratefully received.

The bracket was made from 6mm 316 stainless which is quite tuff, with deep fillet weld and good penetration. But you have probably come across brackets similar to this before. I suspect the highest point of load on the weld is at the centre where the plate ends but the brackets continues, also as the bolts are in the center the face plate could distort so the bracket rocks.

After your comments I think I am going to remove the brackets and weld a web in the center top middle and bottom.

Many thanks for your guidance

David
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Old 24-05-2012, 12:55 AM   #48
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Started to make the drive bracket for the steering today
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Old 24-05-2012, 09:55 AM   #49
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My brackets are only welded, though to be fair, they're 10mm 316, and don't have quite the same cantilever leverage vibe going on as yours. loads are generally in line. Also, with your bolts thru' transom on the centreline of the bracket, it may, under large loads try to 'peel' the bracket away from the transom. Think maybe I'd have had them nearer the edges.
One thing you must ensure is that the ram(s) get to the end of their travel, before the drive reaches it's steering stop, or you'll break something. Hydraulic forces are massive and will bust the gimble, or bend the bracketry in an instant.
Not a good pic, but all I can find of mine.
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Old 24-05-2012, 08:27 PM   #50
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Hi Jon

Hi Jon

Thanks for your post. I totally take on board you comments about loads being generally in line and I would have preferred to have 4 bolts one on each corner of the face plate. Uforchanatly the cantilever brackets with the bolts in the center are the beast of a bad situation. I am severely limited by the width of the transom and spacing of the stringers. If you look at the picture of the transom inside the bolts are at the absolute maximum distance from the drive. To bring the pivot point to the center of the bracket would have meant moving the cylinders in by about 4 inches and it was just not viable.

However I am going to web the brackets vertically at the center it will strengthen the weld where the peel force is at its highest and should stop the face plate distorting.

The rams run out of travel about 20mm of the arc before the steering stops, so should be OK on that one.

On the bright side it’s a twin instead of single ram setup, the twin rams are controlling only one drive and there is no power steering to increase the hydraulic pressure. And hey, still has to stronger than the standard setup.

But I am open to any other suggestions.
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Old 24-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #51
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Is there anything stopping you from extending the brackets around the corner of the set-back portion of the transom? If that makes sense?
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Old 25-05-2012, 04:52 AM   #52
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Is there anything stopping you from extending the brackets around the corner of the set-back portion of the transom? If that makes sense?
Hi Paul
Uforchanatly if you rapped it round through 90 degrees and tried to bolt it through the stringer it is foam cored which would just crush, but then you could bond in an insert then glass over it, its just not really a good solution. The other would be to rap it round 90 degrees the out straight, sort of in a Z configuration, bit messy and would get in the way of the trim tabs.

As I said before, itís the best of a bad situation and probably stronger than the single internal ram setup.
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Old 25-05-2012, 05:04 AM   #53
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There was one other solution I concidered and thet was an extention box as the brackets are attached to the box, but I am not sure what effect adding another extention box would have when the hull in effect already has a built in extention box.
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Old 27-05-2012, 05:56 AM   #54
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M10 A2 Bolt Yeild

Just out of interest looked up the yeild strength for M10 A2 bolts @ 0.2% which is 26100 Newtons (= 2661.46Kg). " Experience has shown that a utilization of 70% of the total load is reasonable average for the initial stressing force to allow additional forces in service to be taken up". Times 3 bolts per bracket = 7984.38Kg or around 8 metric tons. Bolts should not be a problem as long as brackets and welds hold.
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Old 23-06-2012, 12:26 PM   #55
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Things are a bit slow at the moment and not much to show has been doing the wiring.

Have run plastic 50mm tube down right hand side and 30mm across the transom and back up the other side to run all the electrics in. Have used branch ĎTís at the points where the loom breaks out into various compartments.

Have fitted 20watt blue LED underwater lights in the transom similar to the Ocean LEDís



I just love that video with massive rooster tail, thatís a big boat.

Bought an1100GPH Rule auto bilge pump and fitted it with a stainless bracket.

Picking up the dash and switch panel this afternoon from Carbonweezel to mount the Livosi gauge's
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Old 23-06-2012, 05:41 PM   #56
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Thats such a smart way of fitting a bilge pump , looks great and no hole's in the floor superb !
Can you give me some more details about the underwater lighting please
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Old 23-06-2012, 10:14 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboy
You need di a nice job on the cougar! Lovely!


What didyou use to coat the inside with? is it paint?
How much deed you need for a square meter? Were you able to get away with one layer?

thanks!
The paint I used was from Reactive Resins, thay are a great company to deal with.

www.reactiveresins.com/

Their product name is Safegaurd EA and the color is mid gray, but you can have it in any color. It is actually an anti osmosis coating for the hull, but is an Epoxy two pack paint. I used this because it is Epoxy and only epoxy will stick to my Vinyl Ester hull. It is very thick and goes on very well with a roller. I used two coats and may be 2 liters. It is very hard slightly satin finish. Epoxy will not flake, is water and fuel resistant and sticks 2.5 times better that polyester flow coat. It is also very cheap. Would highly recommend it for any engine bay.

I ran round any rough or high spots on the surface with 180 grit DA air sander first.
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Old 23-06-2012, 10:48 PM   #58
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Thats such a smart way of fitting a bilge pump , looks great and no hole's in the floor superb !
Can you give me some more details about the underwater lighting please

I had a bit of luck with the lights, I bought a pair of 3watt though transom fittings from Portsmouth boat jumble for £20, when I got home found they were $625 each new.

http://insulationforunderwaterlights.com/ledlights.htm

I then took the inside out and replace the LED chip with 20 watt blue LED's from eBay in Hong Kong they were about £8 each. I also ordered a 50 watt led but was too big to fit in the housing. The other thing is if you want to sit with them on whilst moored up to look at the fish, 2 x 50 watt is around 9 amp draw and is going to kill your battery quite quick and I am sure 2 x 20 watt will be fine on a small boat.

The item number for the 50 watt chips is 160776723712 and they come with a driver circuit, the 20 watt chips I have used are item no 390285214786.

There are two problems with high power LED chips and the first is you must have a heat sink or some way of getting rid of excess heat, otherwise the chips damage very easy. The second is that you have to use a circuit to limit the current. The chips I used have to be limited to 1400 milliamp.

The Ocean LED units are around £250-£300 each and are 50 watt, I think the minimum to get a good effect on a small boat is 2 x 20 watt. The cheapest I found are 18 watt and £160 each from China, Item no 320840880279. If you can find some housings or get someone to make you some the LED’s are quite cheap and with a small amount of electronic knowledge you can make your own.

If you just want to have a bit of fun you can buy a drain plug with a blue LED in it, but I don’t think it will be very powerful. Item no 190649028759
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Old 23-06-2012, 11:13 PM   #59
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Picked up the new dash and switch panel from Carbon Weezel today, they made an excellent job.

The old one that came with the boat had gone milky and was damaged. The new one is made of a special resin that does not go milky or yellow. It is also lacquered to give it a high gloss finish.

Well done, thanks lads.
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Old 24-06-2012, 12:07 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freddy21 View Post
Just out of interest looked up the yeild strength for M10 A2 bolts @ 0.2% which is 26100 Newtons (= 2661.46Kg). " Experience has shown that a utilization of 70% of the total load is reasonable average for the initial stressing force to allow additional forces in service to be taken up". Times 3 bolts per bracket = 7984.38Kg or around 8 metric tons. Bolts should not be a problem as long as brackets and welds hold.
In industrieel calculations, static and semi static parts,
saftey factor is 2.5 on all threaded parts.
Dynamic or high dynamic situations will take higher safety factors.
Stainless also have massive lower stress life then CrMo 8.8>12.9
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