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23-01-2010, 07:37 PM
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#161
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 90
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What type of software do you use to "write" to do all this?
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24-01-2010, 11:21 AM
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#162
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Steering System
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatless-Again
What type of software do you use to "write" to do all this?
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Hi Boatless-Again,
Whilst i don't want to appear uncooperative i have deliberately omitted any references to manufacturers products used in this installation as i believe there will be other engineers around the world developing similar systems.So whilst i don't mind talking about the principles of operation both the hardware & software to achieve my goals must remain confidential As i don't particularly want to do someone elses "donkey work"
Peter
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25-01-2010, 04:56 AM
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#163
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterunwin
Hi Boatless-Again,
Whilst i don't want to appear uncooperative i have deliberately omitted any references to manufacturers products used in this installation as i believe there will be other engineers around the world developing similar systems.So whilst i don't mind talking about the principles of operation both the hardware & software to achieve my goals must remain confidential As i don't particularly want to do someone elses "donkey work"
Peter
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No problem. I hust could not imagine writing code (don't have the back ground) and it is not every day that someone that builds boats has a computer programming background.
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25-01-2010, 08:20 AM
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#164
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Registered User
Country: UK
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,237
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[QUOTE=peterunwin;175238my goals must remain confidential As i don't particularly want to do someone elses "donkey work" [/QUOTE]
Thats a smart man.
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26-01-2010, 09:31 PM
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#165
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Dummy DriveShaft
Hi All,
Here are a few pictures of manufacturing a dummy driveshaft that will be used to accurately position the port engine.With good alignment the only work the flexible couplings will have to do is to take out shock loadings & flex of the hull.The couplings i have selected one for each end of the shaft are R & D 910 series see attached link.
http://www.randdmarine.com/flexiblesc.asp
The real shaft will be manufactured from carbon fibre tube with a moulded in flange at either end so will be slightly shorter than the dummy tube to allow room for the couplings.
Peter
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26-01-2010, 09:57 PM
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#166
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 90
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Those couplers are very similar to the "GLOBE RUBBER WORKS" ones that have been out for years.
http://gcsmarine.com/default.aspx
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29-01-2010, 09:59 AM
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#167
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,959
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But Pete, you don't really want the flanges directly aligned do you?
I've always understood, and actioned, UJ's to be set (fixed) at between 1, and 3 degrees (equal and opposite in pairs, ie, turn up at 1st, level back out at 2nd, or equivelent) otherwise the needles never 'roll', and end up digging grooves in their stub axle.
It's an easy thing to acheive with a longish shaft, but fiddly with short (did a pair at 10" once, raising or lowering the motor/box by a very small amount causes quite a difference in shaft/UJ angle). especially with a solid setup, where you have no adjustment as with regular marine metalastic mounts.
Always understood it to be highly important for longevity.
Not sure if the same applies for a CV joint, but would have thought so, with balls digging in, rather than rollers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterunwin
Hi All,
Here are a few pictures of manufacturing a dummy driveshaft that will be used to accurately position the port engine.With good alignment the only work the flexible couplings will have to do is to take out shock loadings & flex of the hull.The couplings i have selected one for each end of the shaft are R & D 910 series see attached link.
http://www.randdmarine.com/flexiblesc.asp
The real shaft will be manufactured from carbon fibre tube with a moulded in flange at either end so will be slightly shorter than the dummy tube to allow room for the couplings.
Peter
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__________________
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-01-2010, 10:17 AM
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#168
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numbskull
Country: United Kingdom
Location: South
Occupation: none
Interests: none
Boat name: Leviathan
Boat make: Phantom 28
Cruising area: South Coast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: South
Posts: 15,959
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Oops!
You're not using UJ's!
My mistake. Must learn to read posts before engaging keyboard!
__________________
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"I Agree with everything you say really!" - John Cooke to Jon Fuller - 26-01-2013
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29-01-2010, 10:18 AM
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#169
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Drive Couplings
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Fuller
But Pete, you don't really want the flanges directly aligned do you?
I've always understood, and actioned, UJ's to be set (fixed) at between 1, and 3 degrees (equal and opposite in pairs, ie, turn up at 1st, level back out at 2nd, or equivelent) otherwise the needles never 'roll', and end up digging grooves in their stub axle.
Always understood it to be highly important for longevity.
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Hi Jon,
Yes Jon you are absolutely correct UJ'S do require to be run out of alignment otherwise brinelling of the bearing journals will take place but i am not using UJ'S i am using R&D flat faced couplings which do require very good alignment to work best, there is a link in the original post.
Peter
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29-01-2010, 01:22 PM
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#170
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Fuller
Oops!
You're not using UJ's!
My mistake. Must learn to read posts before engaging keyboard!
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He is human after all
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31-01-2010, 06:23 PM
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#171
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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It Was Cold In Hamble Today
Hi All,
The engines had been running in these pictures for nearly an hour along with the cabin heating in an effort to defrost the deck but to no avail, so we had a very cold run back to southampton, couldn't take the ropes & fenders in because the decks were so slippy, but us tough northerners aren't put off our boating by a little bit of frost
Peter & Carolyn
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02-02-2010, 07:32 PM
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#172
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Steering System
Hi All,
I have now decided upon the manufacturer for the rotary & linear transducers which are now on order so i have been able to design & manufacture all the steering column parts.Here are a selection of pictures of parts & assembly.I have used low friction sealed for life bearings plus an additional seal on the steering shaft, all parts are stainless steel or billit aluminium.All fastners on final assembly will also be stainless steel.We will shortly be manufacturing a fully operational test rig to make sure i am totally happy before installing all of the components in the boat.
Peter
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02-02-2010, 07:36 PM
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#173
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Registered User
Country: UK
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,237
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Looking good Peter.
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02-02-2010, 09:17 PM
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#174
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Wiltshire
Occupation: Fool
Boat make: Scorpion RIB
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 148
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Just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying this thread. I don't understand half of what you are talking about but it's great to see someone who clearly knows their stuff getting on with it.
BTW, my Momo wheel started to rust in my car after a couple of winters - I hope they are better made now, or do you have a secret formula for Italian design & British salty air?
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Make Poetry History
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03-02-2010, 04:16 PM
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#175
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
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Re the electric steering system, Volvo has used electric to electric steering for the past few years. It too has ‘variable lock’ as the engine speed increases or de creases. This seems to work really well and doesn’t seem to take any getting used to. It allows more lock at low speed to mooring is easer and less (although adjustable) at high revs as to stop the boat ‘falling over’ when used in a boat with high centre of gravity.
Volvo now also produce fully electric helm to hydraulic system at the rear on their drives. They wire this into all the EUC’s and run effectively two separate systems with 4 rams and two pumps on the engines so the legs can move independently which can allow for aided maneuvering by fitting a joy stick control.
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03-02-2010, 09:14 PM
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#176
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Steering System
Hi All,
Here are a few pictures of the proportional control valve parts & assembly.As you can see from the pictures there is a manual control lever which will be connected via cable to a position near the helm unit so in the event of a failure the boat can still be steered manually.The valve will be mounted between the 2 power steering pumps minimising the hose lengths required to circulate the oil.As the valve has very large pressure & tank galleries & is of a load sensing design it will consume very little power to drive the pumps, only when lock is applied will power be required to drive the system VERY IMPORTANT when you have only got 1450HP to play with Also started to make the test rig today.
Peter
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03-02-2010, 10:11 PM
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#177
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 670
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ok i stopped understanding about 5 posts ago where does the coal go??
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03-02-2010, 10:22 PM
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#178
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: East Mids
Occupation: MD hydraulic/engineering company
Interests: Fast cars, bikes,quads, boats, going fast...etc
Boat name: Cheetah
Boat make: Hunton XRS37
Engines: Volvo D6 with DPR drives
Cruising area: So'hampton
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Mids
Posts: 557
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Steering System
Quote:
Originally Posted by baj666
ok i stopped understanding about 5 posts ago where does the coal go??
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Hi baj666,
Into the fuel tank via the refinery "HUGE QUANTITIES" required
Peter
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03-02-2010, 11:21 PM
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#179
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,891
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How you gonna make sure it doesn't go unstable and start oscillating?
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04-02-2010, 06:48 AM
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#180
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Registered User
Location: West Coast of Norway
Occupation: naval architect
Interests: surface piercing props, stepped hulls, air entrapment hulls
Boat name: none
Boat make: PetterTintorera
Engines: Yamaha 90
Cruising area: West Coast of Norway
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Coast of Norway
Posts: 888
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Impressive. Have you built self-sentering into the steering assembly, or will there be a certain amount of force feedback from the hydraulics? In fly by wire systems it is important for the driver to get some kind of feedback of how much helm you are putting on. Volvo Penta went all out with a full blown force feedback system on the IPS to get the right steering feel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterunwin
Hi All,
Here are a few pictures of the proportional control valve parts & assembly.As you can see from the pictures there is a manual control lever which will be connected via cable to a position near the helm unit so in the event of a failure the boat can still be steered manually.The valve will be mounted between the 2 power steering pumps minimising the hose lengths required to circulate the oil.As the valve has very large pressure & tank galleries & is of a load sensing design it will consume very little power to drive the pumps, only when lock is applied will power be required to drive the system VERY IMPORTANT when you have only got 1450HP to play with Also started to make the test rig today.
Peter
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