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Old 06-11-2007, 01:24 PM   #1
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hydrolift lynx 22

Hi im new here.
i like to get some advice about my boat and set up ... does anyone know it ??


thanks
piphans
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:32 PM   #2
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600 hp on a 22' cat yikes
What's your current speed & rpm ? Prop & setup ?

Cheers
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchPhil View Post
600 hp on a 22' cat yikes
What's your current speed & rpm ? Prop & setup ?

Cheers
yep runs nice!!

but it has bin in the water only 1 time - my first run was about 81 mph.
with 28" hydromotive props but i have some 31" i like to try on it - but its my first time in a catamaran so i did not trim much.
it got over 6000 rpm. maximum is 5500. 3 man in the boat.

but there is a lot of setting up to do before it flyes right.

i like to know - i have my 2 engines in the tunnel so they get nice clean water - works great i think, but when i turn it feels like the boat will turn over.
could it help to switch gearcases?? they are counter rotaition, so i splash the water away from the boat !?
ore does any one have an idear?

thanks
piphans
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Old 06-11-2007, 07:27 PM   #4
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My god that is feckin awesome Would never have thought that it would float with that much weight on the transom. Lookin forward to hear the results from your next test run
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Old 06-11-2007, 07:33 PM   #5
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Normally you want the engines to run outward rotation(as seen from the transom)
the right turning engine mount to the right,left engine left.
this is the safest way to go,however some boats need more sternlift (like mine )so I switched lowers to inward turning,thus to lift the stern,but remember some boats can easily turned over when turning inward because of the propellor torque helping the boat to go the wrong direction if aired out on 1 side .

But it could be totally different if both engines are mounted into the center,because of less arm levarage.

Try if you can find any info about a silverwing tunnelboat ,they used to mount the engines in the tunnel too with these boats,silverwings are very low profile ,so they use them for lakes ,and not much for the rough.

Are you using deflectors to bent the water away from the midsections ?
If you use your boat in the rough you have to mount these ,because it can be dangerous ,if used in heavy seas ,it could rip a whole engine off.

therefore most people will always mount the engines behind the sponsons ,so they are protected from rough stuff.

Tunnels do always feel kinda strange in corners ,they usually lend over to the outside ,as opposed to a V that leans inward.

have you set the engines straith ? I mean the alignment off the lower units ?

sterl;ing
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Old 06-11-2007, 08:38 PM   #6
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http://www.stenteq.com/

at this adress you can see that the engines are straith, (is that what you ment?)
but lower units runs the wrong way (as you say)so i might try that first.
i have also found out that my helm pump is a littel to small so i have a new one on the way.

(But it could be totally different if both engines are mounted into the center,because of less arm levarage.)

less arm levarage ?? could you tell that in an other way?

im not using deflectors i dont run my boat in big big waves only in good wind and its not open sea but in inlet.
thanks
tommy






Quote:
Originally Posted by sterling View Post
Normally you want the engines to run outward rotation(as seen from the transom)
the right turning engine mount to the right,left engine left.
this is the safest way to go,however some boats need more sternlift (like mine )so I switched lowers to inward turning,thus to lift the stern,but remember some boats can easily turned over when turning inward because of the propellor torque helping the boat to go the wrong direction if aired out on 1 side .

But it could be totally different if both engines are mounted into the center,because of less arm levarage.

Try if you can find any info about a silverwing tunnelboat ,they used to mount the engines in the tunnel too with these boats,silverwings are very low profile ,so they use them for lakes ,and not much for the rough.

Are you using deflectors to bent the water away from the midsections ?
If you use your boat in the rough you have to mount these ,because it can be dangerous ,if used in heavy seas ,it could rip a whole engine off.

therefore most people will always mount the engines behind the sponsons ,so they are protected from rough stuff.

Tunnels do always feel kinda strange in corners ,they usually lend over to the outside ,as opposed to a V that leans inward.

have you set the engines straith ? I mean the alignment off the lower units ?

sterl;ing
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:22 PM   #7
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Ok I see your turning inward,thats a little dangerous,its maybe better you change the lower units ,or the engine,s .
To see if the alignment is straith ,you have to use a measuring tape ,and measure the center to center propshafts (there is a small deburred hole in the center of the shafts ,thats easy to take your measurements)
and the center to center at the front side ,best is to start with straith set up.

I find it difficult to write in English to make you understand what the propellors will force the boat good or wrong ,and what the effect is when mounted closer together,maybe someone els can chime in here ?

What sort helm do you use ?
If the helm is to small ,you can always step up to a Cappilano 1275 V or a 1250V helm,those are with a variable volume ,so you can adjust the amount of turns you make with the steering wheel,and make the steering more direct or indirect.

sterling
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:34 PM   #8
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Also what I forgot is ,you are using big hydromotive 4 blades ,probably quad 4 ,s I believe they are 15 1/4 diameter ,when you are going to have handling problems (could be maybe not) you can always try a real cleaver style props 3 blades such as merc style and 14 inch diameter, or 14 1/4 to let the propellors not control the boat too much.
Bigger diameter props (and more pitch) can cause handling problems ,smaller props do affect less .

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Old 06-11-2007, 09:38 PM   #9
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Frankly you should be doing close to 100mph with 600hp. How high are the motors ? Do you have jackplates ?
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchPhil View Post
Frankly you should be doing close to 100mph with 600hp. How high are the motors ? Do you have jackplates ?
it was first run and only 28" props and way to much rpms.

CMC POWER LIFTS
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:54 PM   #11
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IMVHO, should be on the brown side of 100.
My hydrolift cr24 has done somewhere way over 100 with a single tuned 2.5efi.

Quote:
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Frankly you should be doing close to 100mph with 600hp. How high are the motors ? Do you have jackplates ?
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:06 PM   #12
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first many thanks for your long and very learning answer!!

when you say alignment is straith do you then mean toe in and toe out ??
as when the nose cones is turning inwoards ore indwords??

how much mm you want me to messure less at the prop shafts?? 5mm ??

i got 2-3 mm now

i think i have understand what you mean about the propellers an what can go wrong - i will make the lower units run outwords.

the props are quad 4 yes but as i remember only 14 - but i think you have misunderstanted me i have the feeling that the boat is turning over just in very low speed i have my helm pump a littel in my mind if its too littel then the boat might oversteer when turning ??

i have on ebay won this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ebaymotors/ws...B:EOIBSA:MT:11
that i think can do it.

thanks
tommy

Quote:
Originally Posted by sterling View Post
Ok I see your turning inward,thats a little dangerous,its maybe better you change the lower units ,or the engine,s .
To see if the alignment is straith ,you have to use a measuring tape ,and measure the center to center propshafts (there is a small deburred hole in the center of the shafts ,thats easy to take your measurements)
and the center to center at the front side ,best is to start with straith set up.

I find it difficult to write in English to make you understand what the propellors will force the boat good or wrong ,and what the effect is when mounted closer together,maybe someone els can chime in here ?

What sort helm do you use ?
If the helm is to small ,you can always step up to a Cappilano 1275 V or a 1250V helm,those are with a variable volume ,so you can adjust the amount of turns you make with the steering wheel,and make the steering more direct or indirect.

sterling
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:42 PM   #13
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This is a nice thing about these forums ,to share info,I ve had a few cats ,singles twins ,and a quad outboard cat ,where also 2 engines were into the tunnel,just like yours,and 2 engines behind each sponson.

I had to make 2 deflectors to deflect water away from the mids.

What I was trying to say is to set the engines straith ,so front (cones)for example 60 cm and the back (shafts) also 60 cm.
There is some deflection in the mids when under full torque ,but that is for later when you want max performance(probably tomorrow)

Do you have a lot bow lift ?

If possible ,let someone made a video from the boat when you drive by ,so you have a clear vieuw what happened ,and it tells you all you need to know.

sterling
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:45 AM   #14
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I will make the lower units straith !
then i will move the tanks forward, and the batterys too.
the lower units will be switched next time i put it in the water.

but i will do it in this order:

1. new sterring helm - on the water an try to feel the differns

2. switch lower units - (put them straith) on the water an try to feel the differns

3. (an other day) move the tanks forward, and the batterys - on the water an try to feel the differns.

so i can feel the differens each time ( a tip from my best man that has helped me build the boat - he has bin sailing small race boats for about 15 years ago - but never cat-boats.

thanks again sterling.





Quote:
Originally Posted by sterling View Post
This is a nice thing about these forums ,to share info,I ve had a few cats ,singles twins ,and a quad outboard cat ,where also 2 engines were into the tunnel,just like yours,and 2 engines behind each sponson.

I had to make 2 deflectors to deflect water away from the mids.

What I was trying to say is to set the engines straith ,so front (cones)for example 60 cm and the back (shafts) also 60 cm.
There is some deflection in the mids when under full torque ,but that is for later when you want max performance(probably tomorrow)

Do you have a lot bow lift ?

If possible ,let someone made a video from the boat when you drive by ,so you have a clear vieuw what happened ,and it tells you all you need to know.

sterling
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:19 PM   #15
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He He He
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:35 PM   #16
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hi lars

sterling: my bow lift is fine i think not to much not to littel.
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Old 07-11-2007, 05:27 PM   #17
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Piphans; just wondering if you built the boat yourself or if Egil Ravnvig built it? And why do you say it is a Lynx/Hydrolift? Is the top half Lynx and the Bottom hydrolift SC 22? I know that the H SC 22 was developet from the Lynx 22, just curious about yours Do you have any more pics of it? Good luck!
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Old 07-11-2007, 05:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorwegianBoater View Post
Piphans; just wondering if you built the boat yourself or if Egil Ravnvig built it? And why do you say it is a Lynx/Hydrolift? Is the top half Lynx and the Bottom hydrolift SC 22? I know that the H SC 22 was developet from the Lynx 22, just curious about yours Do you have any more pics of it? Good luck!
its a lynx 22 (Chris Hodges) the same boat as the hydrolift 22 the only diffrens is the top. and a littel chance in the sponsors.

i have a lot of pictures on my procekt and will load them up as soon as i found out how

i say that becodes no one knows the lynx and the historie:

its to be found on this site
http://www.nor-cat.no/hoved.html

this is a copy!
SportCat 22 was introduced 1990 and came to replace the extremely popular T20 as the performance boat if you wanted to be fastest on the sea. In 1989, the general opinion was that catamarans were fast on flat water, but in rough sea, they were inferior to the monohulls. However, Egil Ranvig, the designer of the classic Hydrolift boats, had started to notice some interesting things. At the time, he was racing actively with the R-20 in the often brutal sea conditions of Norway. He was competing in an offshore race in Tvedestrand where an odd catamaran suddenly past by him, triumphed and won in superior style. The strange thing was that this was happening in 3-4 meter waves...


The boat was the Lynx catamaran, designed by famous designer, Chris Hodges. After a while the Lynx production rights ended up in possession of Hydro Design, owned by Egil Ranvig and the company behind the Hydrolift boats. Ranvig, who had an eye for beautiful lines and sleek aerodynamic shapes, quickly discarded the "not so very good looking" deck of the Lynx. He designed a new lighter deck with much better aerodynamics and weight balance. The cockpit design was borrowed from the T-20. The only, but very important, change to the hull were a well calculated transom step (notch) in each sponson. These steps gave the new boat a much needed change in the hydrodynamic balance.
The speed gain was very obvious and in the official Norwegian Speed Record trials in 1990 this was to be demonstrated. With a Mercury 2.4 EFI engine the Sportcat clocked 90 mph.
Compared to the 72 mph speed of the Lynx in the 1989 trial (with the same engine), this was remarkable. Ranvig’s combination of changes had resulted in an unbelievable speed gain of not less than 18 mph!

The new construction was named Hydrolift Sportcat 22 and it debuted in 1990 both as a race boat (CR-22), and a 5-seat Sports boat (CT-22).A catamaran sports boat was something new. Not many people knew what it was like riding a catamaran and the Sportcat quickly became the name of the game in Norway. The critics were quickly silenced by the enormous success the boat had on the races. At the time, the T-20 was known as the fastest pleasure boat on the water, but it took a skilful driver to master this little monster at high speed. The T-20 quickly lost its appeal when the Sportcats started to zoom bye with their drivers having one hand on the steering wheel and waving a cold drink in the other, all while the T-20 crews were spitting blood and fighting for their lives. The catamaran was riding on air with a stability not previously known to the enthusiasts. The sea-worthiness of this design left everything in its wake at the time.

Egil Ranvig had done it again. He repeated the success of the T-20 and created a very attractive sports boat that somehow managed to win offshore races against pure racing designs. .

This was the beginning of the catamaran era for Hydrolift.
Based on his experiences with the Sportcat, Ranvig later designed a whole new series of state of the art racing catamarans, ranging from 20 to 38 fot. The results culminates by setting the UIM World Speed Record in offshore S (6L) class with the CR-28 and the Unlimited RIB Word Speed Record with Ribcat 38. But even 16 years after it was original designed a slightly modified CR-24 (Hydrocat) was able to win the 2006 World Championship in Offshore C class.

In 1998 the Sportcat moulds was sold to a racing enthusiast in Drammen, Norway who made a few boats, but soon his time and interest was used on other projects.
He then sold the moulds to Jaro Tech Composites in Drbak, Norway who now is the owner of the original moulds.

piphans
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:40 PM   #19
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Welcome

Welcome to Boatmad Tommy


I have much confidence in Sterlings advice of switching gearboxes
back to the "conventional" setup.

Sounds good with the stepwise setup changes.

Your Lynx is great boat withs loads of potential.

lets keep in touch in case you need a helmsman for a future run

BR.

Troels
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:10 PM   #20
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What were you doing to the engines in the pics that they were in bits?
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