Advice on cutting down stand-off bracket

[pugracer285]

Hi Guys,

I'm having a few issues with parts compatibility.

The Stainless Marine stand-off bracket has a flange across the top which is hitting the Seastar front mount helm cylinder. The only way I can see this working is to have a local machine shop cut around 1 in off the top of the bracket. This should give the clearance I need.

It's easier to see what I mean in the pics below. I've put a line across where they'd cut - roughly in line with the bottom of the empty bolt holes.

This will also allow me to straighten up the power trim pipework and leave enough room to run the jack plate hydraulic hoses - both of which go under the cylinder.

Question is whether I'm going to significantly weaken the bracket by doing this? It's a pretty heavy duty item and would still have a lot of material left.

In an ideal world I'd actually like to drop the engine by one more hole but can't see there being enough clearance for the steering if I do this.

The alternative is to switch to side mount steering but I'm reluctant to spend another chunk of cash if it can be avoided!

Any advice appreciated.

In terms of mounting height, I am currently setup with the prop shaft around 3/4 of an inch above the hulls. If I could come down one more bolt hole then the propshaft would be parallel with jack plate all the way down.

Skaters etc of similar size are setup with propshaft around 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch above the hull bottom. They're obviously lighter and slightly more top speed orientated. Unfortunately there is very little setup info around for this hull so I'm having to compare to anything else single engined of similar size.

The jack has 5in of travel so going up is not a problem, more a question of being low enough to give good holeshot and handling in rougher waters.

Oh and in case you're wondering, it's a Ringcat 22.

James

[Marinautic]

We rigged a Ringcat (extreme version) a few years ago, same lifter setup, but with a 250XS. we mounted the Standoff box lower, and the lifter on the top bolt hole. We used IMCO steering, but I seem to remember that SeaStar would have fitted ok.

[pugracer285]

Originally Posted by Marinautic

We rigged a Ringcat (extreme version) a few years ago, same lifter setup, but with a 250XS. we mounted the Standoff box lower, and the lifter on the top bolt hole. We used IMCO steering, but I seem to remember that SeaStar would have fitted ok.

Hi, thanks for the feedback. Don't suppose you can remember roughly where the gearbox centreline would have been in relation to the hull bottoms?

James

[Marinautic]

Sorry, I can't. I'll see if I can find some photo's of it.

[RossM]

Id say the motor looks too high but all my experience is with mono's!

[Captain Chaos]

Originally Posted by RossM

but all my experience is with mono's!

Alright Reggie!

[Renegade]

Originally Posted by Captain Chaos

Alright Reggie!

Ha!

[pugracer285]

Ha, and there I was seeing all these replies and expecting many words of wisdom from you all!

Tonight I removed the engine and stand-off bracket, going to machine shop in the morning to take some material off the top so that the steering and trim hoses fit nicely. Powdercoaters on standby to then re-finish it.

Will then re-drill the transom so that the box sits 2 inches lower. That should put the gearbox centreline just over an inch below the bottom with lifter fully down.

Should hopefully give much better holeshot and handling in the rough stuff.

[RossM]

Wisdom....from Chaos....unlikely lol

Have you checked that the jack cant be re-drilled insted of the boat?

[pugracer285]

Yea the jack has 2 sets of holes as std but they'd only enable me to move it up rather than down. Not enough material there to drill it again so transom is the only option.

Whoever fitted the stand-off box used 6 bolts so if I come down 2 inches I can reuse 2 of the middle holes - so just 4 to drill. The awkward bit is that there is a massive stainless strengthening plate they've made up inside the aft locker butted up against the transom so I've got to get through a thick stainless plate which won't be easy.

[andymac]

You could maybe use a side mount ram,which push/pulls through the tilt tube.which I have one for sale £100.i used it on my p20 when it had a lifter.

[pugracer285]

Hi Andy,
Thanks I will bare this in mind once it's all back together depending on the clearances. Would like to use my existing ram if poss as its a complete new Seastar system.
James

[Paul E]

Originally Posted by pugracer285

Yea the jack has 2 sets of holes as std but they'd only enable me to move it up rather than down. Not enough material there to drill it again so transom is the only option.

Whoever fitted the stand-off box used 6 bolts so if I come down 2 inches I can reuse 2 of the middle holes - so just 4 to drill. The awkward bit is that there is a massive stainless strengthening plate they've made up inside the aft locker butted up against the transom so I've got to get through a thick stainless plate which won't be easy.

You won't get through stainless with a hand held drill.... You need to get that plate out and either punch them or do it very slowly with lots of cutting compound and a good bit in a pillar drill, starting small and working up. If you try with a handheld you'll end up knackering the drill bit, which in turn will heat and harden the stainless making an already difficult job virtually impossible.