Alpha 1 Steering Play

[NIC SURRY]

High i have free play in the steering lever pivot,ie;the steering lever that's in side the gimble housing and protrudes through the transom and the steering cable connects to it.It appears to be a pinch bolt clamp on the shaft.I've tried to get and tighten the pinch bolt but can't get to it,is the free play a major concern could it slip/sheer?and it looks like an engine out,inner trandsom plate and gimble housing removal to get to it,is it a case of tightening bolt or is it a spine/tapper with a quater pin?any help/line drawing etc appreciated
Nic
PS this is on my other boat not the Phantom

[Marinautic]

here's a diagram

[Marinautic]

oops

[NIC SURRY]

Originally Posted by Marinautic

oops

Thanks I coudn't find this drawing anywhere on the webb but did find this webb site which is great www.mercstuff.com very helpfull,it looks like the connection between the shaft and the lever is a square pin/hole and the pinch bolt is no longer gripping it tight hence the free play,according to the webb site the earlier ones were a spline.Hopefully the more informed on here will be able to confirm that drilling the holes in the housing is to give access to the top nut and pinch bolt is only if you want to do the job with it all in place.I take it that if you were prepaied to remove engine inner transom plate and outer gimble housing etc I can get to these bolts from inside with out drilling holes this is not clear in the manual?Help Appreciated

[NIC SURRY]

Originally Posted by NIC SURRY

Thanks I coudn't find this drawing anywhere on the webb but did find this webb site which is great www.mercstuff.com very helpfull,it looks like the connection between the shaft and the lever is a square pin/hole and the pinch bolt is no longer gripping it tight hence the free play,according to the webb site the earlier ones were a spline.Hopefully the more informed on here will be able to confirm that drilling the holes in the housing is to give access to the top nut and pinch bolt is only if you want to do the job with it all in place.I take it that if you were prepaied to remove engine inner transom plate and outer gimble housing etc I can get to these bolts from inside with out drilling holes this is not clear in the manual?Help Appreciated

Please advise if you know about this

[BILL BROWN]

Originally Posted by NIC SURRY

Please advise if you know about this

Hi Nick, Mercruiser used to supply a kit with 2 3/4unp plastic plugs, drilling template and instructions on how to (imho) bodge the tiller arm it does not include the tap required to thread the hole you have to drill. The reallity is the upper pivot pin is made of steel as is the arm, what usually happens is the shaft rusts, destroys the upper seal, the arm and pin rust, causing the square ends to round of and no end of tightening will eliminate the play. the only positive way to effect a safe repair is to remove drive,engine and transom shield. Replace worn parts and reassemble. You can also get play in the square onto the gimble ring on the outside.
The parts are unfortunatly very expensive, the last time i replaced a pin they were about £ 300.00 .If you know a good machine shop you could probably get one made in stainless for about the same price.

[NIC SURRY]

Originally Posted by BILL BROWN

Hi Nick, Mercruiser used to supply a kit with 2 3/4unp plastic plugs, drilling template and instructions on how to (imho) bodge the tiller arm it does not include the tap required to thread the hole you have to drill. The reallity is the upper pivot pin is made of steel as is the arm, what usually happens is the shaft rusts, destroys the upper seal, the arm and pin rust, causing the square ends to round of and no end of tightening will eliminate the play. the only positive way to effect a safe repair is to remove drive,engine and transom shield. Replace worn parts and reassemble. You can also get play in the square onto the gimble ring on the outside.
The parts are unfortunatly very expensive, the last time i replaced a pin they were about £ 300.00 .If you know a good machine shop you could probably get one made in stainless for about the same price.

I'd seen the kit and thought by the time i'd bought a cutter and tap it would be just as cost effective to pull the engine drive etc,I just wasn't sure if i'd still have to drill the housing but I presume when its all out it gives you access to the nut/pin etc and it sounds like it might need some heat on it so better if all removed from the boat.It's a pain because I only have a small ammount of play.