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09-07-2009, 09:47 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: Guernsey
Occupation: Engineering
Boat make: None, boo!
Engines: Turbines mainly!
Cruising area: The inside of my workshop!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
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Bravo water leak?
Hi all,
So I've bought the revenger and got it back to Guernsey today! Really pleased with her but I've got a little issue... She's taking on water through the drive at quite a rate!
I've chatted to Russell about it and as i was aware the shift cable was replaced just before i got her, to do this i'm told the drive was only partially removed.
Bravo's are totally new to me, can anyone give me any pointers on what to look out for and where the water may be getting in? I'm told the 'bellows' are one option as they can tear, so i'll check those as bast i can.
Any tips very gratefully recieved!
James
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09-07-2009, 09:54 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Country: Guernsey
Occupation: Engineering
Boat make: None, boo!
Engines: Turbines mainly!
Cruising area: The inside of my workshop!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
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I should probably also mention it'd seem the water pickup on the drive isn't used, it's got a transom pickup, and the exhaust is thru-transom too.
Cheers, James
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09-07-2009, 10:57 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: uk
Location: southampton'ish
Occupation: builder
Boat make: Mariah
Engines: volvo 4.3
Cruising area: hatchet pond
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: southampton'ish
Posts: 497
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check that the water pickup pipe in the leg is blanked off,
if the shift cable has been done and an old clip(crimp clamp) was used on the cable bollows it my have broken!
if you need any more pages from the manual let me know mate
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______ _________________________ ________________________ ______ If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something
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09-07-2009, 11:13 PM
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#4
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AKA JASON
Country: UK
Location: NE ENGLAND
Occupation: MD PRINTING COMPANY
Boat make: 50 SUPERHAWK/36 CAT/32 ACTIVE THUNDER
Cruising area: TYNE + CAPE CORAL FLORIDA
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: NE ENGLAND
Posts: 14
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I had the same problem on a 48' Sunseeker here's what I checked.
Drive belows
Shift cable belows
Transom shield make sure all the bolts are tight and transom is solid not soft or rotten.
Check all the transom shield bolts to make sure they haven't corroded through as the ends of the bolts are exposed to salt water.
Trim wires the grommet were it goes through the transom shield.
And after checking all this on my boat it was the top swivel pin seals as the pin is made from steel and rusts and tears up the seal, if so replace it with a stainless version from JR marine they do a full overhaul kit and cover plate.
http://www.jrmarine.com/products/2000.htm
Jason
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10-07-2009, 12:24 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Southampton
Occupation: Electromechanical Engineer
Interests: Bikes, boats and engines etc.
Boat make: Cobra RIB
Engines: Mercury Optimax
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southampton
Posts: 252
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If it's coming in at quite a rate it should be easy to spot which one of the bellows is at fault. It may be that one of the others got damaged/disturbed during the shift cable work. They can be a bit fiddly at times.....
Hope this helps.
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10-07-2009, 01:04 AM
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#6
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Engine tester
Country: united kingdom
Location: Southend on Sea
Occupation: Construction
Interests: Gin & Women
Boat name: motorvator
Boat make: Revenger San Marino / Sunseeker Camargue 46 / Phantom 18/19/600
Engines: 502 mercruiser / Detroit 550s / 115 ProXS / Anything Borrowed
Cruising area: Thames, Southend
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 1,021
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James,
7? places to get through:
1: Shift cable - quite a small aperture filled largely by cable so tends to be a weep.
2: Bellows - this seals the drive from water getting to the gimbal bearing, seal it up by pumping it full of grease via the grease nipple on the outside edge of the shield and if this stops it then you know this is where the problem lays. 2 types of bellows available, the old style with reinforcing wires internally and the new thicker ones with nought. 3 years for the former and 5 years for the latter. So i'm told!!!!!!!!
3: Exhaust blank off plate - You've got straight through exhausts only I think? And there is a blank off plate just below the drive shaft Exhaust bellows is superfluous on your set up If I'm right.
4: Around the shield - be surprised as it consists of a thick rubber ring that is comressed against the transom.
5: Water intake pipe - this is a rubber hose that is wedged against the shield by a threaded and tapered plastic insert and sits behind an elbow on the inside of the transom shield. The tapered inserts have a habit of collapsing which restricts water flow hence why some people still go for a remote pick up despite having low water pick ups on the box. I imagine you have a blank off plate where the elbow would sit.
6: Speedo tube - goes onto a union that is part and parcel of the shield as I remember.
7: Porous shiled - I have seen shields that are so badly corroded that ingress has occurred around the steering pins and the like. If your drive looks like a sherbet dib dab, this could be the case.
Other than that mate have you checked you haven't got a hole in the bottom of the boat.
Anyways nice to see you become a Shead convert, you've tried the rest now try the best
Cheers,
Kerry
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"Lend us a motor Chaos"
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10-07-2009, 08:37 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Country: Guernsey
Occupation: Engineering
Boat make: None, boo!
Engines: Turbines mainly!
Cruising area: The inside of my workshop!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
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Thanks for the replies everyone, Andy - Where did you get the manual from? I could do with one of those! That bit n the cable installation will be so helpful!
Kerry - You really are as helpful as Russ said! Thanks for the descriptions of what to check. She really is a lovely boat. I've got plenty of little jobs to do on her as years of racing have definately taken their toll, but during the quick spin i had yesterday she was fantastic, best ride i've ever had! (in a boat!)
I'm gonna take the afternoon off for a bit of investigation so hopefully i should have a result by later, I'll be printing this all off and taking it with me!
Thanks again for all the help everyone,
James
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10-07-2009, 08:57 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Hampshire
Occupation: Credit Crunched
Interests: Rally Driving
Boat name: Double 2 Shirts
Boat make: Planatec 41
Engines: 2x625's+ From Uncle Sam
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2,522
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James have you sold the Cat?
and any pics of the new boat?
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10-07-2009, 10:57 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larby
Thanks for the replies everyone, Andy - Where did you get the manual from? I could do with one of those! That bit n the cable installation will be so helpful!
Kerry - You really are as helpful as Russ said! Thanks for the descriptions of what to check. She really is a lovely boat. I've got plenty of little jobs to do on her as years of racing have definately taken their toll, but during the quick spin i had yesterday she was fantastic, best ride i've ever had! (in a boat!)
I'm gonna take the afternoon off for a bit of investigation so hopefully i should have a result by later, I'll be printing this all off and taking it with me!
Thanks again for all the help everyone,
James
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Hi Don't If you need to remove the shield and presuming its the same as a Alpha you will need a specific Tool to remove the the two pivot bolts
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10-07-2009, 11:24 AM
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#10
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Engine tester
Country: united kingdom
Location: Southend on Sea
Occupation: Construction
Interests: Gin & Women
Boat name: motorvator
Boat make: Revenger San Marino / Sunseeker Camargue 46 / Phantom 18/19/600
Engines: 502 mercruiser / Detroit 550s / 115 ProXS / Anything Borrowed
Cruising area: Thames, Southend
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 1,021
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Nic,
you only need the tool to remove the helmet from the steering yoke but James should be able to replace anything required as long as the clamp positions are as stated on the installation instructions.
__________________
"Lend us a motor Chaos"
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10-07-2009, 12:43 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Country: Guernsey
Occupation: Engineering
Boat make: None, boo!
Engines: Turbines mainly!
Cruising area: The inside of my workshop!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
|
I'm not planning to remove the whole sheild, that all looks fine and i can see the water is coming from inside the bellows. Just planning to remove the leg assy so i can have a look in and see what's what.
Martin - Nope, the cat is still sat down in the field. Need to make a few calls to get a new powerhead, get her all sorted again and then she'll be sold.
Cheers, James
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10-07-2009, 12:44 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorvator
Nic,
you only need the tool to remove the helmet from the steering yoke but James should be able to replace anything required as long as the clamp positions are as stated on the installation instructions.
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I was thinking more if he wanted to have a good examination,I might be wrong but with through transom and blanking off plate he can run without an exhaust gaitor which might make more room for access to jubilee clipes etc or fit the sliding tube in tube type?
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10-07-2009, 01:23 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larby
I'm not planning to remove the whole sheild, that all looks fine and i can see the water is coming from inside the bellows. Just planning to remove the leg assy so i can have a look in and see what's what.
Martin - Nope, the cat is still sat down in the field. Need to make a few calls to get a new powerhead, get her all sorted again and then she'll be sold.
Cheers, James
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James I belive its just been taken appart before you take anything off have a look to see if the gaiter is fitted corectly,they are supposed to be glued and held by a jubilee clip,very fiddly to get at clips,taking the drive off would only allow you to see inside the gaiter although it does make it easier to ensure the gaiter is seated correctly,and a chance to lude drive shaft UJ's and pump grease into gimble bearing,Nic
PS if you ever take shield off do check condition of wire to the trim senders as they perish and it all has to come off to replace
Ignore my comment of Exhaust slider as a waist of time with through transom
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