dull hull

[jordaniel]

Hi my p20 has been hidden for a very long time (from the ex wife) and it's very dull no shine to it at all what's the best way to make her shine again

Kind Regards Ray

[Jon Fuller]

depends how much effort you want, or are prepared to put in.

[baj666]

Originally Posted by jordaniel

Hi my p20 has been hidden for a very long time (from the ex wife) and it's very dull no shine to it at all what's the best way to make her shine again

Kind Regards Ray

i had the same on my marshan mate..ive done 1 sq metre with a a very fine polishing paste (forgot name) but scrounged from my local body shop and worked on it then 2 layers of a good wax and you can now see your face..ime going to buy myself a buffing machine this winter and spend a couple a days detailing it. Ile open my garage tomorrow and give you the name of the paste i have as its worked a treat

[jordaniel]

thanks guys
bag666 if poss can i have the name of the wax aswell please? as for how long i've got jon i'll keep going till it's done i need hanging for letting it get to this state so for my crime my punishment must be hard graft with no chance of paroll

[Jon Fuller]

To get the perfect, lasting shine, I would block it with 1200 grit W & D paper / soapy water, then mop it with compound, or even mop using T cut (works fine from a 1200 grit blocking) then, wash off (soapy water) and wax with Simoniz Original. Simoniz isn't so easy to find these days mind you.

The only thing you need to be very carefull with, is getting too keen with the 1200 g and going through the gel. If you're not confident or familiar with that part, I'd just compound it, then polish.

Best / easiest results with Simoniz is to do a small area at a time, and immediately polish it off. if it dries, it's a pig to buff up.

the real wax finish will keep it's lustre and water will bead off it for many months.

If you can do the 1200 g bit, it will remove the very top layer of gel that has oxydized from the UV, so when you compound & wax, you're doing it to fresh undamaged plastic, so it keeps it's lustre. If you don't, the surface will deteriorate again quite quickly back to a dull finish.

I would also strongly reccomend ONLY using a top quality Wet & Dry paper such as 3M, otherwise the grit uniformity can be bad and you'll get swirly scratches from the larger particles that are deep and hard to lose.

A lot of hard work, but done right will look great.

[baj666]

Originally Posted by Jon Fuller

To get the perfect, lasting shine, I would block it with 1200 grit W & D paper / soapy water, then mop it with compound, or even mop using T cut (works fine from a 1200 grit blocking) then, wash off (soapy water) and wax with Simoniz Original. Simoniz isn't so easy to find these days mind you.

The only thing you need to be very carefull with, is getting too keen with the 1200 g and going through the gel. If you're not confident or familiar with that part, I'd just compound it, then polish.

Best / easiest results with Simoniz is to do a small area at a time, and immediately polish it off. if it dries, it's a pig to buff up.

the real wax finish will keep it's lustre and water will bead off it for many months.

If you can do the 1200 g bit, it will remove the very top layer of gel that has oxydized from the UV, so when you compound & wax, you're doing it to fresh undamaged plastic, so it keeps it's lustre. If you don't, the surface will deteriorate again quite quickly back to a dull finish.

I would also strongly reccomend ONLY using a top quality Wet & Dry paper such as 3M, otherwise the grit uniformity can be bad and you'll get swirly scratches from the larger particles that are deep and hard to lose.

A lot of hard work, but done right will look great.

very intresting read..cheers bud

[jordaniel]

Thanks jon
i think im going to have a go with the wet and dry just not sure about going through the gel coat can this be replaced if i do go through.is gel coat like lakka on car paint sorry to sound like an t**t but im a virgin at this
Regards Ray

[Jon Fuller]

I would suggest trying the W&D on a small area, then compound, T cut and wax, see how it turns out.

re gelling isn't really an option.

Be very careful, I don't want to see you mess it up and feel it was my fault!

I've done quite a bit of this, with great results, so be very measured with your W&D-ing!

[Matt]

Howzabout 2000 or even higher grits? Do they remove enough, or does it need to be 1200 to be abrasive enough to cut through the oxidation?

Last time you said the Simoniz Original is difficult to get, I phoned em up and they confirmed it's still in production, so any Simoniz stockist can get it. There's usually a load on ebay, although the price is variable.

[Matt]

I stand corrected - it wasn't discontinued but is now.

[Marinautic]

Originally Posted by Matt

I stand corrected - it wasn't discontinued but is now.

TD will be dissapointed to hear that!

[jordaniel]

Hi Jon
i have found some Simoniz Original. its liquid wax is this the one your on about or should i be looking for a paste version of it found it on ebay
Regards Ray

[Jon Fuller]

Ray, I've not used the liquid version, only the hard wax version, so can't comment how good it is.

[Jon Fuller]

This is the stuff....

http://a1autowise.com/SIMONIZORIGINALWAX.aspx

this could be an alternative, though I've not tried it.

http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Smartwax.html

Or the US site.
http://www.simonizusa.com/consumer/p...idproduct=1752

[Renegade]

G3 polishing compound is great.use a polishing mop(machine) then try 3M finishing compound, it comes in a black bottle and is dark grey in colour. then some wax.

it will come up a dream.
Paul

[fullbore]

Originally Posted by Renegade

G3 polishing compound is great.use a polishing mop(machine) then try 3M finishing compound, it comes in a black bottle and is dark grey in colour. then some wax.

it will come up a dream.
Paul

I also have had good results.

[jordaniel]

Thanks guys for all your helpful advice im very greatful
Regards Ray

[Germansaleen]

i am reduing my yellow dull gel on my p600 right now

i did start with 1200 grit 3m wet paper next 2000 grit

then buff with an elektric buffer
1. with 3M Marine Imperial Compound and Finishing Material with a hard foam pad for compound
2. with 3M™ Marine Finesse-It™ II Finishing Material with a medium foam pad to get the fine swirls of
3. and last with 3M™ Ultra Performance Paste Wax ,let it dry and polish with an ultra soft foam pad

the pads are as important as the compound,wrong pads and you buff and buff and no material is gone.

i got all compounds at ebay co uk and ebay germany
a catalog is online in pdf for download here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...s/AAD-Catalog/

cover all hardware and decals with tape

the gel looks like new after the work

some after work pics are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Germansaleen

have a nice day
michael