Fuel/oil ratio

[tank]

what about liquimoly formula racing fully synthetic 2 stroke oil?
any good or not?

[Cookee]

What do you run EFI's on then Jay?

[Burty]

Originally Posted by Cookee

What do you run EFI's on then Jay?

Penzoil but you can't get it over here.
Motul is also a recommendation of his, i can put you in touch with the company that distributes it but its about 12 quid a litre

[roofer]

Originally Posted by Burty

Penzoil but you can't get it over here.
Motul is also a recommendation of his, i can put you in touch with the company that distributes it but its about 12 quid a litre

I bought a box of motul off ebay last year at £4 a litre.

[Jay Smith]

I said I wasn't going to do this but here goes. hopefully for the last time ...

I like Pennzil 100% syn at 8K or below . Above 8K the Motol is good,along with Red Line, European Castrol 2 cycle and Alisyn..as earlier posted the avalibility of some of these products is an issue in Europe.

For ALL steel sleeved engine I HIGHLY suggest and run NOTHING but blends only, a fully syn 2 cycle oil in a steel sleeved engine has proved NOTHING but scuffung and sezier trouble for me and others here ... The 100% syn oils are not thick and load bearing enough to protect the bores from heat caused by the expantion rates that come along with steel sleeves in conjuction with the cast alum piston and with the addition of a forged racing pistion combo and steel is the kiss of death UNLESS you run at least .008" pistion to cylinder wall clearances and a wide ring end gap (.020" ish ). Mercury does NOT suggest ANY 100 syn oil in ANY steel sleeve engine they build EVER only blends....Running the alum. sleeved coated bores ( Nic/Nicom ) with forged pistons ( the industry standards in Mercury High Performance O.B. racing engines ) as the bores and the piston metal composisition are the same ( Aluminum )they have the same expantion rates so they need no special thick sticky load bearing oil to live, that is the reason the 100 syns live and perform well in these applications.

Some like Klotz IMO Klotz is one of the DIRTYEST burning oils on the planet that I and most have observed the orangy colored connecting rods when new will be almost black after 3 months running Klotz Also BTW: all but 1 oil that Klotz makes ( KL 333 thier bottom of the line recreational oil ) have NO rust inhibitors in thier add packs now thats what I wanna run in a needle bearing motor in aquatic service !!! ..."But Klotz smells SOOO GOOD buring" Now isn't that the most rediculous reason in the world to choose an oil to protect an engine???? It smell good because of the castor content and most that are familiar with a castor based oil know that it is the worse oil on the planet to run in a recreational engine because of its bad habit of glueing the rings in the lans after a short period of run time..

Sorry for the soap box show, now back to the farm , IMO I would'nt run Amsoil in a weedeater... As ( VERY ) few like (love) it , the most I read about that are "into" engines and build thier own and observe the end results share my thoughts...Don't take my opinion as gospel? Put on ya specs and read......

Cheers,
Jay @ JSRE

[Matt]

Good post Jay.

[Cookee]

Thank you Jay - a longer post than I was expecting, but it fills in the blanks for me - Thank you!

[OCRDA]

Yam 130 approx 6 hours since full rebuild !! Accidentally forgot to put oil in when refueled & have estimated a Fuel - AMSOIL ratio of 210:1 raced 2 x 30 minute heats & engine absolutely spotless, good compression no cylinder leakage & checked with bore scope !!

I think that proves it for me I always thought it was good stuff now i KNOW it is !!

Bob

[verytricky]

Originally Posted by OCRDA

Yam 130 approx 6 hours since full rebuild !! Accidentally forgot to put oil in when refueled & have estimated a Fuel - AMSOIL ratio of 210:1 raced 2 x 30 minute heats & engine absolutely spotless, good compression no cylinder leakage & checked with bore scope !!

I think that proves it for me I always thought it was good stuff now i KNOW it is !!

Bob

But was it faster????

["Old beardy"]

Originally Posted by OCRDA

Yam 130 approx 6 hours since full rebuild !! Accidentally forgot to put oil in when refueled & have estimated a Fuel - AMSOIL ratio of 210:1 raced 2 x 30 minute heats & engine absolutely spotless, good compression no cylinder leakage & checked with bore scope !!

I think that proves it for me I always thought it was good stuff now i KNOW it is !!

Bob

I have also been using Amsoil for the past 3 years and found it superb. At 50:1 in an XR2 the engine was as clean as a whistle when pulled down at the end of each season.

[JamesM]

Is it possible that the UK stuff is different to the US stuff?

[Jay Smith]

Thats GREAT Bob , if that Yamy ran SOO good at 210:1 on the "majic elixer" then one would suppose that the 210:1 ratio is going to be your normal mix ratio from now on correct? After all if its soo good , caused no damage and ran so well @ 210:1 why waste the money mixing at the suggested "normal" ratio ???

Just pulling ya chain there Bob...( I'm just Kidding I'm really not trying to piss ya off...)

As I've said if you find one out of 10 that thinks a "snake oil" is the greatest thing since sliced bread the other 9 have a horror story about it. I build engines for a living and I don't sell or care what type oil one uses thats your business...

I LOVE these "snake" oils as I said earlier the aftermath of people using them and me having to do repairs makes my NEW CORVETTE notes every month.......

Like I said if you want to get the straight skinny about ANY product go to a HUGH related site like Scream and Fly and search for a large consumer network input ( good or bad ) about a product...Don't just take my input I'm just one guy BUT I do build ALOT of engines and see what running these products cause and cost people to repair and to me something as miniscule as an aliegence to an oil is nothing to go to war about , as long as it "works" for you run it...

Cheers,
Jay @ JSRE