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31-07-2010, 10:58 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Marshan Tilt and trim Help!
Posted this with my first thread in general, think this would be a good place too. Got my fingers crossed on this one!
I have one little problem I hope someone can help me with (I may add it in another area too?)
The tilt and trim was not working when I got it, I've cleaned up the in-boat motor/pump and traced all the wires. Rigged it up, nothing, switch wasnt working! Tried just the wires and the motor is running fine. I,ve started to fill through the filler (I think) the brass looking stopper you can see. Not alot goes in and there is no movement. I think there is just no oil in the system (motor/pump was off the boat).
Number on piston is 92193, if that helps.
Can someone give me some tips on how to get it working, filling it up, filling the pistons? checking more wires? Fitting the oil lines? (I've done one side on the left thick n thin and the other sides all on the right, if you see what I mean) There is the twist button to engage and disengage too? Will need a new switch also
The engine is a mariner 60 3 cylinder number 9436112 (any info on this motor or tips to lookafter it would be greatfully recieved also.
Here are some pics
Thanks all, It's my first boat, enjoying it already, the work and the play, just like to get the tilt and trim running too.
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01-08-2010, 07:05 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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hello and welcome to BM. have you tried shorting between both big nuts on each of the solenoids to see if the motor runs one way then the other?? i'm not sure which brass screw you mean but i would have thought that the filler is the domed slotted scewhead near the screwdiver in pic 2
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01-08-2010, 07:58 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: Guernsey
Occupation: Engineering
Boat make: None, boo!
Engines: Turbines mainly!
Cruising area: The inside of my workshop!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
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Hadn't seen this in time, so I replied in the other thread! I'd guess the brass screw he's been trying to fill through is the drain one down by the hoses, you can see it looking nice and clean in the 2nd pic above... Which would explain why he's not getting anywhere!
James
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01-08-2010, 09:06 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Ahh, I see! The rusty looking domed screw notched into the big black square part. Says something like that on the sticker 'fill up to bottom of thread' but not where the filler is!. Thats why I did the other one, easy to fill up to bottom of threaded tube (but not much goes in. Is the unit the correct way up in the pic, thats how it mounts. So keep it as it is and fill up through that rust domed screw?
Not bridged the nuts yet burty, didnt know that trick. So I bridge the 2 big nuts ontop of each solenoids with it all conected up?
If you could just let me know if I have it right I'll give that a go.
Thanks to both of you.
I'll post progress on this on this thread, fingers crossed.
I'm away for a few days holiday. Its my 1st wedding anniversary today so with all the working on the boat got to keep my wife happy.ha
Oh I think I need a new switch for it too, best place to get one?
Cheers
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01-08-2010, 11:37 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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yes dude,
the 2 solenoids tell the pump which way to run by putting a 12volt supply onto the blue wire for up (sky) or the green wire for down (grass) there is a permanent ground to the pump body. your switch on the dash just applies 12volts to 1 of the small terminals on the solenoids (the other side again connected to ground) which switches the solenoid and applies the main 12v to the pump motor.
by shorting across the big connections on each solenoid should run the pump and by applying 12volt to the little terminal should also prove your solenoid
any non latching switch will work, depends how much money you want to spend but i prefer the protrim (looks like an indicator stalk from a car) the are about £45 for a single
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02-08-2010, 10:21 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Country: Northern Ireland
Location: Bangor Co Down
Occupation: Quantity Surveyor ( Retired )
Interests: Boating & classic speed boats
Boat name: Tremlett 15
Boat make: 1973 Gunning/Tremlett 15' & Ribeye 4.5m )
Engines: 1976 Mercury 500 50hp ( & Yam )
Cruising area: Ireland
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bangor Co Down
Posts: 208
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Hi Lanks,
your engine serial No ( 9436112 ) on my list falls into year 1985, Belgium built & your power trim is Power trim design 1, "trim limit adjustment screw located on starboard Trim Cylinder, external trim cylinders "
if you live in the UK, send me a PM, with your correct name & postal info, I will send you a copy of the section from the Merc/Mariner Service Manual that covers the above including " Troubleshooting "
Austin ( T 15 )
__________________
T 14, from the old days ( 1972 )
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03-08-2010, 03:08 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Home again.
Thanks for that, will give it a go,
Tremlett, PM sent
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03-08-2010, 08:22 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Just got back from the shed and its working! thanks all for the tips.
Filled it up.
Had to change a solenoid but seems to work fine.
Switch is a problem but why/what are the four wires for where the switch would go?
I put brown and green together and the motor goes up, blue and the same brown together and motor goes down. I've got a switch comming tomorrow so would like to know what the others are for, grounds? The motor moves with just the two together? I could just play with them till I get it working on the new switch, just dont want to mess anything up.
There is another wire further down the loom that goes to nothing? one wire for a gauge maybe, how could I tell? anyone got an old gauge? not vital but while I'm there I thought I'd have a look. The movement is the important bit.ha
Want to get it in the water on Thursday and give it a go, so tips on trim/tilt would be good. ie best for speed, economy... anything that you think a newbie may need to know.
Thanks again,
Oh, more build pic's in my other thread if you want to look.
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03-08-2010, 10:42 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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you should only need 3 wires on the switch, permanent live in the middle then the blue and green either side normally opposite ie. if you push the switch down it makes the top 2 terminals. not sure what the other wire is for.
just go steady on your first outing and make sure you wear all the safety gear!! life vest, kill cord etc even if you going slowly, get on the plane with the motor trimmed in and then trim out till the engine is level, anymore and you'll notice the increase in speed but it will start too get flighty so just go careful until you have got used to it.
Most of all have fun!!
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04-08-2010, 07:36 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Thanks for the tips Burty, will get some pic's of the outing and put up,
Switch sounds straight forward too.
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05-08-2010, 04:19 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Got the switch on worked great, up and down, started to bleed the system up and down and releasing the fill screw worked fine got faster and faster then stopped! nothing
ahhhhh, I thought
Motor felt a little warm so left it for 10 min came back fine moved great.
Had a job to do on the stern 20 min later so needed to lower it, nothing!
ahhhhhh, again
Up, down nothing, switch off nothing then started going down all on its own and didnt stop, jumped back and disconnected the battery, bit of testing found my brand new solenoid was stuck to run? weird.
Well hope to get it replaced and sorted for the weekend.
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05-08-2010, 06:07 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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was it actually stuck or was there 12volts still applied to the coil??
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05-08-2010, 11:47 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Not sure what you mean Burty, I'm affraid I need the idiots guide on these till I get to know it a bit more.ha
I took the switch off incase that was a problem, and about 30 seconds later it just moved all the way down on its own and just kept running so I disconnected it at the battery.
As soon as a live was given to the top big bolt (where the fused red wire comes from it just ran, with that bridging piece of metal that should be on and when I took the live off the other solenoid and put it to this one.
I couldnt believe it I had just sorted it all out and boxed it away neatly and was going to post the finished pics up! hope I can get it going by the weekend.
Thanks for all the help.
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06-08-2010, 07:28 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston Super Mare
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weston Super Mare
Posts: 6,351
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i was wondering if it was a wiring fault rather than the switch. if 12volts was still applied on the little terminals of the solenoid the that could be why it was still running, you need to check that with a meter or bulb before replacing the solenoid as i've never heard of a solenoid actually sticking on.
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07-08-2010, 12:21 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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I didnt get your post till now, I'm always on here late.
The little wires that go to the little terminals at the base are/were put as they were, no messing from me on any of them on the motor/pump. The only wires used on the switch is the 12v and the green and blue. There is that purple one, I've just left it as it worked?
I swapped the solenoids over to see if it was the solenoid, the older other side one worked fine, same wiring. But the newer one on the other side just ran!
I fitted another solenoid today and it all seems to work fine. Fingers crossed got it sorted.
But dont want to blow anything, are there any checks to make?
Hoping to get in the water Sunday, forecast is better and its high tides.
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25-08-2010, 06:18 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Country: Northern Ireland
Location: Bangor Co Down
Occupation: Quantity Surveyor ( Retired )
Interests: Boating & classic speed boats
Boat name: Tremlett 15
Boat make: 1973 Gunning/Tremlett 15' & Ribeye 4.5m )
Engines: 1976 Mercury 500 50hp ( & Yam )
Cruising area: Ireland
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bangor Co Down
Posts: 208
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Lanks,
this may be useful
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...:X:RTQ:GB:1123
r have you already bought one.
__________________
T 14, from the old days ( 1972 )
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26-08-2010, 01:40 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Thanks for the heads-up.
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26-08-2010, 03:55 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Pump Mounting
Hi I think you said the pump was mounted as pictured,I think those pumps are normally mounted with the pipes at the bottom-solenoids at the top,the black square is the holding tank so on the angle you might be running the pump dry or suffer air locks.Nic
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27-08-2010, 01:50 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Cornwall
Occupation: Teacher
Boat name: Hawkeye 77
Boat make: Marshan 162
Engines: Mariner 60
Cruising area: North coast, out of the camel
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 54
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Seems OK at the moment sometimes is a bit slow when its going down but a little push and its fine.
I could makeup another bracket and try it up right if you recon it would run better.
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27-08-2010, 04:25 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Country: SOUTH WEST UK
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Occupation: MERCEDES SALESMAN
Interests: POWER BOAT RACING
Boat name: BIG AIR
Boat make: PHANTOM 19
Engines: 200XS
Cruising area: BRISTOL CHANNEL
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WESTON SUPER MARE
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanks
Seems OK at the moment sometimes is a bit slow when its going down but a little push and its fine.
I could makeup another bracket and try it up right if you recon it would run better.
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I've only ever seem them mounted as I described,mounted like that the fill screw is at the top so you can fill to the correct level,Nic
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