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Old 17-12-2010, 08:48 AM   #41
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it's your choice both ways will work, looking at your engine beds and it looks like you'll be moving them about too, looking at the installation as a whole i'm starting to think it's not the type of job to undertake for your first delve into grp, but i admire a man who will have a go
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Old 17-12-2010, 09:20 AM   #42
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it's your choice both ways will work, looking at your engine beds and it looks like you'll be moving them about too, looking at the installation as a whole i'm starting to think it's not the type of job to undertake for your first delve into grp, but i admire a man who will have a go
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Old 17-12-2010, 02:17 PM   #43
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So, I guess the only questions that remain are, What should I use for the centre stringer? How far forward should it run? After shaping the wood, to sit snug on the hull, what bedding should I use? Should I add the cross pieces of wood? What is the best way to build the mounts, from the stringers? Apart from these items, I think I have the basics now.

If all else fails, anyone got a seagull for sale?

Pete
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Old 17-12-2010, 03:13 PM   #44
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you've not even started yet, you will have to work out drive height, distance apart, stringer removal and replace at different spacings, engine bed heights, whether any aux's that are on the engines are going to hit your new stringers/mounts, run's for cables, mounts maybe for fuel filters, ecu's, trim pump's, batteries, as i said the deeper you go the more i think you should at least have someone there who know's what he's doing
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Old 17-12-2010, 03:54 PM   #45
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Hi Biff, With all due respect mate, the drives need to be moved because of the new engines (width). The new engines are diesel and the old engines were petrol. The drive height has been decided (roughly) and the engines will be mounted to match, allowing the distance apart needed. The lower half of these engines are quite bare, no problems with anything getting in the way, I don´t think (but will check everything 3 times). The entire engine bay will be new, from batteries to bilge pumps. All fuel pumps, filters, water separators, raw water pickups and strainers, cables, steering, trim plus other hydraulics / pumps and controls, will all be new and positioned where possible. Along with the after coolers. I do agree, having someone who knows what they´re doing would be a great advantage and there might be a possibility of that, for a brief visit anyway.

Watch this space and see what kind of mess an amateur can make.

All the best

Pete
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Old 17-12-2010, 04:05 PM   #46
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good luck, measure twice, cut once
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Old 17-12-2010, 04:34 PM   #47
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bonito 36

hi peter,i started to fill holes in my transom on my bonito.21 days later,£9000shorter job done. had to replace all the transom, all the stringers,longitudinals and floors.and my bonito is kevler.looks like new now. "best of luck", tony hamilton.
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Old 17-12-2010, 07:00 PM   #48
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you can do it

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Originally Posted by Peterjfinch View Post
Hi Biff, With all due respect mate, the drives need to be moved because of the new engines (width). The new engines are diesel and the old engines were petrol. The drive height has been decided (roughly) and the engines will be mounted to match, allowing the distance apart needed. The lower half of these engines are quite bare, no problems with anything getting in the way, I don´t think (but will check everything 3 times). The entire engine bay will be new, from batteries to bilge pumps. All fuel pumps, filters, water separators, raw water pickups and strainers, cables, steering, trim plus other hydraulics / pumps and controls, will all be new and positioned where possible. Along with the after coolers. I do agree, having someone who knows what they´re doing would be a great advantage and there might be a possibility of that, for a brief visit anyway.

Watch this space and see what kind of mess an amateur can make.

All the best

Pete
hi pete i am sure if you take your time and with the advise and of some of the guys on here you will be able to do a good job .hate to think of them 6.5 twin turbo sitting on the sea bed on the first heavey pullaway? paul
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Old 17-12-2010, 07:21 PM   #49
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Look on the bright side, you've only gotta rebuild the structures in the back of the boat... I had to re do the whole bloody hull, all structures, entire stringers, new engine bay etc!! It's not that hard if you take your time, but it takes absolutely ages, I've spent a year on mine so far doing all the glassing and I'm not quite done yet!

A little advice from a visit will go a long long way, that's all I ever had. Once you know the basics of glassing, and you HAVE to know those, the rest is pretty logical.

The biggest problem I had was the amount of differing advice on how to do each bit. In the end I just went with what I thought and got on with it.

Best of luck

James
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Old 17-12-2010, 07:23 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyhamilton View Post
hi peter,i started to fill holes in my transom on my bonito.21 days later,£9000shorter job done. had to replace all the transom, all the stringers,longitudinals and floors.and my bonito is kevler.looks like new now. "best of luck", tony hamilton.
Hi Tony, Is that a 36 ? Have you any mor photos of it? Do you know where I can find out anything about these boats. I have been asking around for information but not found much yet. I would like to know what the lay up schedule was and what the tech specs were for mine. Any ideas?

Looks like you had your work cut out with that one. What year is it? I guess it´s a race version also? Any pics of Bonitos would be good to have.

Thanks

Pete
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Old 17-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #51
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Hi James,

I think you´re right. A good basic knowledge and a lot of common sense, goes a long way. It´s not fibre glassing weather here now, so I´ll use the time to strip out what needs to come out and hope that the fairy god mother delivers a helpful visit.

Am I right to guess that I need to pull out both steps and the bottom floor part, within the engine bay? If it´s a good idea to fit a centre stringer, how far would it run forward? As the tanks are just in front of the engine bay and I will have to pull them, if I need to go further forward.

Thanks

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Old 17-12-2010, 07:58 PM   #52
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Why are you looking to add a centre stringer? If the boat didn't have one to start with, I wouldn't worry about it. If you must fit one, normally I'd expect it to go right to the front, same as the other stringers. If it's just an engine bed though, I guess it need only be long enough to go through, and therefore be supported by, the engine bay bulkhead. After that I'd say it should taper off to nothing over 2ft or so to ensure there's no corner able to exert stress on one point. That said it could possibly just end at the bulkhead, I wouldn't know!

James
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Old 17-12-2010, 08:00 PM   #53
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bonito

peter,more pics on trading post under class 2 boat for sale.i have had a lot to do with bonitos,i raced this one in the 80s.i can also help with the drives, and setting the boat up.
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Old 17-12-2010, 08:35 PM   #54
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bonito 36

peter, give me a ring on07802387947. there is to much to talk about.your boat sounds like it is one of the newer ones,"bonito falcon".mid 80s, tony
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Old 17-12-2010, 09:25 PM   #55
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Ha Peter looks like you just struck gold with a man in the know.Tony should / will have all the answer for you hull, good luck and keep us informed.
all the best
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Old 17-12-2010, 09:48 PM   #56
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Ha Peter looks like you just struck gold with a man in the know.Tony should / will have all the answer for you hull, good luck and keep us informed.
all the best
mark
Thanks Mark, There´s nothing better than having tooooo much information. Will keep this up to date.

Pete
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Old 17-12-2010, 09:53 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larby View Post
Why are you looking to add a centre stringer? If the boat didn't have one to start with, I wouldn't worry about it. If you must fit one, normally I'd expect it to go right to the front, same as the other stringers. If it's just an engine bed though, I guess it need only be long enough to go through, and therefore be supported by, the engine bay bulkhead. After that I'd say it should taper off to nothing over 2ft or so to ensure there's no corner able to exert stress on one point. That said it could possibly just end at the bulkhead, I wouldn't know!

James
Hi James, I was thinking that the centre stringer would help with the engine mounts? I was under the impresion that, as long as I went as far forward, as the first bulkhead, that would be safe? As you said.

I´m going to cover the transom with white paper and start measuring everything. Then post what I have and see what you all think.

Then it´s "itchy" time and I want to get that bit done with ASAP. Lucky it´s winter time cos you can´t wear much protective clothing, in the summer, here.

Thanks again.

Pete
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Old 17-12-2010, 10:08 PM   #58
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Yeah I used to get pretty sweaty in the vinery mid summer whilst wearing my clothes, paper suit, boiler suit, socks over shoes, gloves, socks over hands, respirator, goggles, T-shirt over head and hat
And I still itched like an itchy thing 24/7 for months!

Thankfully you won't have as much grinding back to do as me, so it shouldn't be so bad. Have a cold shower when you're done, a hot shower opens your pores and makes it worse, I tested this and found it quite true!

Paper idea sounds like a good plan, I look forward to seeing the pics!

James
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Old 23-12-2010, 02:59 PM   #59
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Template started

Hi All, I got the rough template done today. It´s not mm perfect but when I transfer it to a stiffer card I will trim exact. I think it will help a lot, having the transom in the lounge (not what the other half said though)

Ok, a couple of questions;

1, Should the transom be exactly symmetrical?
2, If not, where should measurements be taken from?

I have taken a centre measurement, from the outside edges of the boat (close to top of transom), down to the centre of the lowest part of the hull. I think that the original drives were put in Pis*ed, as you can see. I am hoping that this is nothing like the "offset" for some outboard installations.

Next step is to make card template and cut exact, then plan new drive holes, based on cavitation plate (gear box) 1 to 2 inches above hull bottom.

Anyone have any ideas or observations?

Thanks

Pete
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Old 24-12-2010, 10:39 AM   #60
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Interesting boat test

Thanks to a BoatMad member (Thanks Mark) I have a boat test for the Bonito. Although every other 36 that I have seen, has different interior and dash setup, mine is exactly the same, even down to the cushion fabric.

Pete
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