transom trouble - Page 2

boatpain · 18-10-2016, 09:56 PM

Hope these are uploading

boatpain · 18-10-2016, 11:34 PM

Made hash uploading

boatpain · 18-10-2016, 11:47 PM

Any input thought is to repair and glass back outside skin from inside and out then make and fit transom board extending it to as much width as I can get tab and glass in then glass over to make new inner skin then attend refitting of motor well all ideas guidance suggestions hints critical or not greatly appreciated Dave re boatpain

boatpain · 19-10-2016, 11:17 PM

just seen another post on here by zander his transom cut a whole lot further than mine he posted in 2014 and no one put up any thing about weakening transom ???

glen76 · 21-10-2016, 01:10 AM

Have you got a picture of whole back end or as it was before? Is the middle part more pronounced? Does your outboard well have a lip which sits over transom wood/thickness? You need to be mindful of that thickness when making new transom.

You are likely to become very familiar with sanding after this project. It is hard to tell the shape of transom, if you want to make a new skin, you could fabricate a temporary wall of some sort of gloss material like glass or Formica fitted to the back of boat and lay up against it and create the skin that's gone outside in. Gel coat first, then csm, then layup to get thickness again. Likely you would still end up sanding corners and joins though. But def an option if you want to stick with gel coat abs polyester

Alternatively you could get your timbers in place securely Glass from the back, and the front Then shed loads of filling and sanding to smooth on outside. This would be best suited if you are happy to paint the finished surface, and you could build up the inside skin thickness on ply out of boat in your garage.. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf Page 38-41

West specify 12:1 bevel 12x skin thickness at edges where new skin would meet old

boatpain · 21-10-2016, 03:06 PM

Hi the out side skin is flat across the opening that you see all that sticks out are those ear parts left and right side about four inches past each side where engine mounts I have a couple of others that I have spoken to on here as well don't know if you can read those and also spoken with Hank at American marine imports and they make their knees from stainless which from pictures make for quite a solid looking job don't know what your take on that is talk soon once again many thanks for your input

boatpain · 22-10-2016, 12:32 AM

hi glen yes the motor well does have a lip that motor bracket goes over something I did notice when stripping down cutting etc that that lip and rest of well do not connect to transom any where it just appears to be like a cap and joint hidden by rub rail.yes I am going filling sanding and 2 k paint route as done shed loads of body work accident damage etc so know that product and method its the timber fibreglass and getting most strength that iam not at all familiar with rather talk and pick brains of willing people as yourself and get job right and best quality achievable on first go than rush in both feet and not get what looking for. thanks glen talk soon regards dave

glen76 · 22-10-2016, 05:52 AM

Avon ribs used metal knees on some of their boats... not many that do. Stainless knees will cost a small fortune, and although I am an engineer, I wouldn't know how to calculate the strengths and loads to build metal knees appropriately. I am also not a boat builder, just someone who fixed up a wreck too. So I prefer to build it like the factory did, and add some if needed.

Did your boat not have knees before? If so why not make them as strong as bayliner did by matching material, or beefing them up with extra thickness or timber. Ply knees tied to the original stringers if they are sound would cost pennies in comparison to metal and make it more like factory.

Is it an inboard to o/b conversion?
Are your stringers sound?

boatpain · 22-10-2016, 10:53 AM

hi no boat is not converted always outboard and it had knees one damaged and one was a mush like mess when I stripped it stringers are all good starboard one just a little wet where knee was mushy but its drying good now opened up to the air the whole structure looks quite light and not that strong from factory build to you are prob right when you say copy and beef up I think maybe over thinking on strength side and may be detrimental poss if you brace in wrong place ive looked at floor behind tank to transom and I could easily brace substantial from there but your idea when thought about copy builders but beef up is prob right path iam pretty lucky with stainless and stuff as my business is next door to steel fabrication company laser cutting and the owner was the boat driver at time of under water strike so his on guilt trip lol no all joking apart when you look at damage someone could of been hurt badly no one was and the rest is repairable so happy days hope to get back do some more work on it in near future so you will prob get bombed with loads more questions etc as I used to be indecisive but that has got better now iam just not sure thanks again glen dave have a good weekend

glen76 · 22-10-2016, 06:37 PM

From what I know. The knees should be tied to hull bottom, not the deck and ideally to stringers too. Dry it all out. Anything wet, get rid of. SeAl the stringers in glass and then seal the knees separately with glass from transom and each other. That way if water migrated into stringers it won't wick up into knees and then up into transom.

Once I laid my knees up I then glassed as far forward as I could and as wide as I could over the top of knee tabing and onto hull bottom to make it all "as one"

boatpain · 29-10-2016, 11:45 AM

morning glen after going to link you gave me for wests turns out I new someone who worked there and they put me in touch with a great tech help guy called dave who said to download west pdf and use that as bible to repair and to stop going round and round net specially usa sites they say west is no1 market leader and following there system will make for best repair they even run a tutorial class once a month 30 mins away from my location £150 for the day so prob going to book on that as I cant see my business showing any gaps allowing me to work on boat in near future and then hope I can get some time in on run up to xmas and after as work is at its slowest at those times thanks talk soon boat pain dave

boatpain · 26-11-2016, 12:33 PM

quick update course was cancelled due to lack of numbers have brought a sheet of 10 mm called fr4 for panel across transom have all fillers epoxy mat material just need time now fr4 sheet from a company called ga tech on web andy shrimpton very helpful

glen76 · 30-11-2016, 05:38 PM

Hi. The fr4 is just a 10mm epoxy panel then? Made with fire resin. Are you going to laminate it both sides or stack it up to get a decent transom thickness?

boatpain · 29-07-2019, 08:39 PM

Been missing off here for a while boat all repaired but had some health problems back on water goes great no stress crack any where even dragging six to eight big lumps about on u tubes bananas and various got 4 mph more than prior to accident which I can only attribute to painting and prep on bottom of hull whist I was doing repair did put new solas prop on but was same pitch dia etc so very happy days thanks all especially glen 76 for the help comments info etc cheers Dave boatpain

glen76 · 03-08-2019, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boatpain

Been missing off here for a while boat all repaired but had some health problems back on water goes great no stress crack any where even dragging six to eight big lumps about on u tubes bananas and various got 4 mph more than prior to accident which I can only attribute to painting and prep on bottom of hull whist I was doing repair did put new solas prop on but was same pitch dia etc so very happy days thanks all especially glen 76 for the help comments info etc cheers Dave boatpain

Hi Dave. Not the most active forum now but glad it went well.