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Old 18-11-2013, 01:22 AM   #21
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Country: FRANCE
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if your serial number is= 6328802
HP YEAR MODELTYPE US SERIAL #NUMBER RANGE
175 1980 ELPT 5488752 - 6618750
175 1980 EXLPT 5488752 - 6618750
175 1981 ELPT 5488752 - 6618750
175 1981 EXLPT 5488752 - 6618750

200 1983 ELPT 6203991 - 6435502
200 1983 EXLPT 6203991 - 6435502

225 1980 EXLPT 5615282 - D280812
225 1980 ELPT 5615282 - D280812
225 1981 ELPT 5615282 - D280812
But I've a doubt, because you said the reference you gave is engraved onto the powerhead, not a engien serial number.
Can you take out a cylinderhead and give the bore diam? Anyway, better to check the cylinderhead gaskets after so many years...
1983 engines have some 7 petals reeds also on their 200 series.But the trim cylinders are not like you discribe.
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Old 18-11-2013, 08:58 AM   #22
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Those early 225's were flywheel HP too so only 200HP in today's money!
Same powerhead that was on Red Devil that JBD sold last year.
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Old 18-11-2013, 07:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydrostream View Post
My parts is coming back with a 4/4.5Hp for that ser no.

Easy to know if its a V225, it will have old style heads with blots on cylinders not out on the block, which changed in 1983 to new style. The V225 also had WH 15 or WH 20 wide bore carbs. I have 2 of these engines, one came on my 1981 hydrostream as original engine.

The old 225 wont have finger ports either.

Take a head off and post a pic.

Also, what boat is it on? On a Phantom 18, you could cut the exhaust chest slightly, bump compression, deck the front half and fit carbon reeds and have a pretty strong motor.
took some pics as requested.

Hydro- Do you have any trigger units? power head cant be stripped any further until I know. also do you have any v6 transom brackets/swivel bracket/trim tilt (basically it all from boat to driveshaft housing not including driveshaft housing) as my swivel tube is so corroded it only moves with a hammer and it needs a new steering tube as completely shot.

Driveshaft housing has the bass mid mod and exhaust tube has been removed. I know this wont add any hp (if anything loose some) but will sound nice. I have left the exhaust diffuser stock to try and keep a bit of back pressure.
looks like the chest is untouched so will get my die grinder on that tomorrow and the someone has butchered the ports, pics may not show it but they have been die grinded in past by a blind ****, all uneven and different on each cylinder.
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Old 18-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
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is that a 2.0 or 2.4?
V200 is always 2330 cm3, early 150/175 are 2 litre.
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Old 18-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #25
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Yeah have triggers, saddles, swivel brackets, swivels pin, trim and tilt ill have to check if I have a complete one! But think there is one.

Also block is later style 2.4, with finger ports. The finger ports look wider than normal but hard too see in pics. Have they been ground on? Is the chrome lifting off the cylinders? Looks like it's marked above the ports.
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Old 18-11-2013, 08:47 PM   #26
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one cylinder has a small pit in the sidewall of the cylinder but hasn't flacked. the marks to be fair are where I wiped a rag around for pics. the finger ports don't seem to have been worked, just the exhaust port.

quick one, has anyone seen red con rods on a blackmax before? when I first looked behind the reedblock I thought the internals were rusty until I realised the conrods are coated in red paint/powdercoat (hard to tell) defo not rust though.
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Old 18-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #27
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Red rods are normal for that age motor.
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Old 18-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Red rods are normal for that age motor.
well that's good to hear.

my mercury specialist training is in Optimax and Verado and haven't really done much older stuff as was RAF engineering officer before I retired (at the age of 30 i'd like to add). my books are black and white so I didn't know lol. my old V200 on no fear had silver conrods.

how does removing the exhaust tube effect the water pump? just had an after thought that the water pump on that Gbox is plastic. I know exhaust does escape into the area for the water pump normally with the way the idle relief is setup but without the tube it will be constant and full on from the diffuser. any thoughts?
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Old 18-11-2013, 10:42 PM   #29
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Water pump will be fine, plenty of water in there unless you dry stack. But don't bother.
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Old 19-11-2013, 05:24 PM   #30
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measured the bore today. 3.368in so that means its defo a 2.4 (book bore 3.377 maybe a fraction error on calipers) and defo a V6 lol. does anyone know what cc I should expect from the cylinder heads? and how much I would need to skim to bring compressions up to 145psi? they were all about 100psi (cold, I know its supposed to be warm) before I started.

also who sells solid billet mounts? or is it cheaper to have them made? I know bobs sell them, they end up being £90 a set of 4.
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Old 19-11-2013, 05:46 PM   #31
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heres pics of the swivel bracket/transom bracket etc.
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Old 19-11-2013, 06:57 PM   #32
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Put some 2.0lt heads on it and you wont be far off.
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Old 19-11-2013, 11:31 PM   #33
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WH 22 Carbs

after some rechearchs the only V6 engine using WH22 carb is the V200.
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Old 19-11-2013, 11:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
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after some rechearchs the only V6 engine using WH22 carb is the V200.
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Old 20-11-2013, 12:47 AM   #35
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I remember this for 2.4 liters, may be someone can tell you how they works...I know where to find these ones, with studs, washers, nuts. almost new.

for a safe use Gene Triechel told me don't go highier than 135/138 psi compression,so you can use pump gas 98 octane, and no more than 6300rpm on V6 200hp carbs..
I've the height for a 2.5 V6 200 unfortunately not for the 2.4 Liters
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Old 21-11-2013, 05:20 PM   #36
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Country: England
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it will be cheaper for me to have the existing ones skimmed. I take on board your 135-138psi French Bruno, thank you.
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