Hunton/ilmor Build

Hi All,
Ground off all the excess epoxy filler from installing the captive bolts, also painted the waste material from the bulkhead to test the 2-pack epoxy paint, even after just one coat the finish is looking very good and more importantly after only 24hours cure time it is proving very difficult to scratch off the surface so the plan now is to start painting the engine bay.I will overcoat the flowcoat already applied to the transom, both sides including the engine bearers and the front bulkhead, then reinstall most of the rigging parts while working from the unpainted central section and only paint this area just before the engines get re-installed.

Peter
 

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am i right in believing the carbon engine mounts are held on with epoxy?..if no then ime daft, but if yes then ime amazed at the strength of them:up:
 
They're being bolted too... :up:

James
 
am i right in believing the carbon engine mounts are held on with epoxy?..if no then ime daft, but if yes then ime amazed at the strength of them:up:

Hi baj666,
As James has pointed out the carbon mountings are being bolted as well as bonded to the longitudinals, in all normal use the bonding on it's own would be more than adequate but just in case the boat ever suffers a high speed hook i am using grade 5 titanium bolts through the angles and longitudinals these have flanged heads and nuts to spread the load and shorter versions will also be used for bolting the engine mounts to the angles as well.They are 10mm metric fine thread with a plain shank to act as a dowel.

Regards

Peter
 
Hi baj666,
As James has pointed out the carbon mountings are being bolted as well as bonded to the longitudinals, in all normal use the bonding on it's own would be more than adequate but just in case the boat ever suffers a high speed hook i am using grade 5 titanium bolts through the angles and longitudinals these have flanged heads and nuts to spread the load and shorter versions will also be used for bolting the engine mounts to the angles as well.They are 10mm metric fine thread with a plain shank to act as a dowel.

Regards

Peter

i might of thought they would not be a straight forward hole and bolt on your biuld Peter:) ...your attention to detail is amazing:up:
 
Engine Bay Preparation

Hi All,
I decided to use 4mm aluminium angle instead of the seperate stainless steel backing plates for the engine mountings, they will be bonded to the inside of the carbon angles, these were carefully marked and drilled before installation, after the bonding has cured i can drill through the angle plates into the engine bearers then install the bolts.

Peter
 

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Engine Bay Preparation

Hi All,
Titanium engine mounting bolts & nuts arrived today, they were supplied by pro-bolt see attached link.They are excellent quality and light as a feather, also got the first coat of 2 pack on the front bulkhead, looks like i will need two coats maybe three in some areas to get the desired finish.

Peter


http://www.tastynuts.com/
 

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Engine Bay Preparation

Hi All,
It's been a busy week loads going on.As there are lots of mounting holes to be drilled i made up several different sizes of drill guides, this makes the task of drilling the holes square with the mounting surface much easier and faster. Also drilled loads of lightning holes in the battery mounting brackets. The ignition and starter switches also arrived this week unfortunately the carrier managed to damage them so they have had to be returned.Getting on quite well with the painting so it won't be long now till i start fitting the rigging permanetly.:hugegrin:

Peter
 

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where did you get the start switches from dude? also what do the ignition switches look like?

Hi Burty,
The switches are made by a british company called Apem, see attached link. The ignition switches are latching and the start switches are momentary but the size and appearance are the same they are about 50mm OD.

Regards

Peter

http://www.apem.co.uk/pushbutton.html
 

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Hi Burty,
The switches are made by a british company called Apem, see attached link. The ignition switches are latching and the start switches are momentary but the size and appearance are the same they are about 50mm OD.

Regards

Peter

http://www.apem.co.uk/pushbutton.html

kin ell Peter have you banged those pinkies of yours a few times on this project or is it a neanderthal thing of wanting to fire up the Ilmors with your fist?
 
This would go well with your project.
 

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That TD reminds me of this one which was pictured all over the world and called the Tomahawk, at the time I really thought Chrysler were going to try for a few records with it, but it all seemed to fizzle out

* 500 bhp (372 kW) @ 5600 rpm (60.4 bhp/liter); 525 lb.-ft. (712 Nm) @ 4200 rpm
* 10-cylinder 90-degree V-type, liquid-cooled, 505 cubic inches (8277 cc)
* 356-T6 aluminum alloy block with cast-iron liners, aluminum alloy cylinder heads
* Bore x Stroke: 4.03 inches x 3.96 inches (102.4 x 100.6)
* Two pushrod-actuated overhead valves per cylinder
* Roller-type hydraulic lifters
* Sequential fuel injection with individual runners
* Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
* Max Engine Speed: 6000 rpm
* Fuel: Unleaded gasoline, 93 octane (R+M/2)
* Dry sump oil system takes 8 quarts of oil
* Cooling: Twin aluminum radiators mounted atop engine intake manifolds, force-fed from front-mounted, belt-driven turbine fan. Takes 11 quarts of antifreeze.
* Exhaust: Equal-length tubular stainless steel headers with dual collectors and central rear outlets

Chrysler sold nine replicas through Neiman Marcus, for $555,000 each. The motorcycles cannot be driven on public roads. A spokesman told Reuters they were meant as rolling sculptures, presumably to avoid legal liability. They are driveable - just not (legally) on public roads.
Wolfgang Bernhard, Chrysler's first mate at the time, was said to be enthusiastic about that project, so much so that hundreds were projected to be built at under $200,000 each (probably below breakeven). They reportedly cost Chrysler over $100,000 to build (the work is outsourced), not including engineering costs.
The Dodge Tomahawk can reach 60 miles an hour in about 2.5 seconds, and has a theoretical top speed of nearly 400 mph. Each pair of wheels is separated by a few inches and each wheel has an independent suspension. Bernhard said four wheels were necessary to handle the power from the engine.

Seeing all the hard work Peter has done with the Hunton I bet he could build this bike for Dodge and make a bloody good job of it

Sorry I can't seem to make the pic come out:headbang:
 
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tomahawkautoshow300.jpg


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kin ell Peter have you banged those pinkies of yours a few times on this project or is it a neanderthal thing of wanting to fire up the Ilmors with your fist?

Hi motorvator,
I got the centres at which i am mounting them mixed up with the diameter they are only 35mm OD still fairly neanderthal:hugegrin:

All The Best

Peter
 
Hi motorvator,
I got the centres at which i am mounting them mixed up with the diameter they are only 35mm OD still fairly neanderthal:hugegrin:

All The Best

Peter

Thought as much :) . They look very similar to the EAO Stuff

http://www.eao.com/global/en/switch...on-switches/push-button-switches.asp?navid=18

If so have a good look at them before you fit as where they offer all sorts of different actions they achieve it by snapping a new fitting to the back of the actuator and these have a tendency to come adrift when you come down hard.

Sod's law is that it wont fall right away as the loom will hold it, just enough to stop the actuator reaching. Then you could end up searching all round the wiring ripping stuff apart in a force 5 before you realise. Not that I know anyone stupid enough to have done that of course. :hatchet:
 
This would go well with your project.

HI TD & CFUN,
I think both bikes would make really nice static displays can't see they would be much fun to ride with all that torque steering the bike as you go on and of the throttle:hugegrin:

Peter
 
Engine Bay Preparation

Hi All,
I bonded in all the aluminium backings into the carbon engine mounting angles, after the bonding is cured i can drill the mounting holes through the pre-drilled aluminium. Also made up all the pipework for the fuel tank fillers,I have used 2" thin wall aluminium tube with preformed 90 degree and 45 degree rubber elbows for a lightweight and compact installion.:cheers:

Peter
 

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Engine Bay Preparation

Hi All,
Drilled all the engine mounting holes using a long series drill and my drill guide to make sure the holes were square with the face of the angles. Also made a spot facing tool for the engine bearer side to make that square with the hole, will now finish of the painting before installing the bolts.

Peter
 

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Lovely work as usual Peter!

It's interesting to see how you are mounting the engines. My revenger had great big cradles almost the length of the engine bay made from 6mm steel that the motor sat on.
I was going to make a similar set for the new build, but from Stainless or ally, which actually went the whole way and braced to the transom and bulkhead too. I always wondered how engines mounted on little bits of angle ally at one point on the stringer didn't just rip out under offshore use!
What would be your thoughts on this, bearing in mind the work done to my hull? Am I going OTT? If so, do I just need two little bits of angle, or somewhere in between?

Cheers, James
 
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