Volvo D6 DPR drive/HuntonXRS37

Hi All,
Virtually all the rigging is now complete in the engine bay the only wires left to run are for the steering transducers which won't be installed until after the drives go on as i don't want any joins outside of the boat. Have now started wiring the dashboard end all the canbus is in just the fuse board to finish of, takes me a little longer as i am not an electrician. Also finished shaping the carbon fibre nose cone and hatch cover these are now ready for lacquering , engine air intakes have been weathering outside for nine months and have now been lacquered.


Peter
 

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a few more
 

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Hi Peter,

It looks stunning.

Petter
 
Thanks Petter,
Made lots more progress with the wiring very time consuming but i am actually beginning to enjoy it. Trial fitted the trim tab mounting plates these are now back at Carbon Weasel for lacquering, i also made all the hardwear to mount the steering transducers to the drives, there is a left hand and a right hand set, transducers are submersible to 2 metres.
This will be our last post for a while as we leave for Key West tomorrow.

Peter
 

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hunton

Hi Peter
getting there bit of light at the end of the tunnel, I wonder how many components you've installed into the project, ? reece
 
Peter

Just a quick heads up about those fuse boxes. I've used them before and had to replace them several times. They hate any vibration and you have to be very careful about the fuses you use. The blades have to be really thick or you can get poor contact. Also the bosses that clamp them together with the screws fail and the base and cover can become detached.
 
Peter

Just a quick heads up about those fuse boxes. I've used them before and had to replace them several times. They hate any vibration and you have to be very careful about the fuses you use. The blades have to be really thick or you can get poor contact. Also the bosses that clamp them together with the screws fail and the base and cover can become detached.

Thanks,
I to have found the casings to be a bit on the brittle side so i take the backs of and sikaflex the two halves together and then sikaflex them to the boat no screws, this seems to work very well. I buy them from Aquafax in Hamble however the fuse blades that they sell don't work with these fuse boards you have to buy a good quality european brand. I also take the precaution of glueing a thin piece of foam inside the lid to stop them bouncing out on a heavy landing.

Peter
 
Peter, are they made by Bluesea systems? their stuff is usually very very good.
 
Peter, are they made by Bluesea systems? their stuff is usually very very good.

Hi Mark,
They are Bluesea and the quality is very good,but i don't think they were designed to be used in extremely arduous offshore conditions, which is why i have tweeked their design to make them as reliable as possible. The fuse blade holders are made from polished stainless plate and as such are very slippery, the cheap chinese fuses are also made of very cheap polished stainless which means they do not make very good contact and slip out very easily, the good quality european fuse blades are made out of tinned copper and grip the fuse holder much better, you would think Aquafax would sell fuses that are appropriate to the fuse board but sadly this is not the case.

Peter
 
I always think fuses are not the best idea on a boat, think id much rather have a resetable trip. If you get a fault, sometimes, the best way to find that fault is to replace the fuse and trace the short. If you are at sea, there is only so many fuses you can carry.
 
I always think fuses are not the best idea on a boat, think id much rather have a resetable trip. If you get a fault, sometimes, the best way to find that fault is to replace the fuse and trace the short. If you are at sea, there is only so many fuses you can carry.

Here Here been there done that, Re-settable Thermal circuit breaker **** hot invention :shag:
 
I always think fuses are not the best idea on a boat, think id much rather have a resetable trip. If you get a fault, sometimes, the best way to find that fault is to replace the fuse and trace the short. If you are at sea, there is only so many fuses you can carry.


Hi Glen,
The fuse boards only serve the domestics, all the important mechanical stuff is run by re-settables which i mount horizontally as these can sometimes de-latch on a heavy landing.

Peter
 

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Returned from our vacation in Florida a few weeks ago and have made a little bit more progress, i have used hydraulic check valves with adjustable spring tension for the raw water pipe and strainer protection, all parts are made of 316 stainless which i have machined externally to reduce their weight. Also got the dashboard assembly in place and trial fitted the carbon finished air intakes. Being at the mercy of the weather is limiting the progress.

Peter
 

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Hi All,
Weather is getting a little better so i have been able to finish of the front wing mounting, the welds were dressed with a dye grinder then anodised followed by sevral coats of 2-pack ready for mounting.

Peter
 

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Hi All,
The good weather continues which has enabled me to bond on the air intakes these are now permanent fixtures and part of the structure, also permanently fitted the trim tab mounting plates, next task is to make some special hinges for the lightweight engine hatch.

Peter
 

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Peter the refit continues to be interesting and a great 'arm chair' lesson in boat building and rigging. Looks like its all come to together now which must be encouraging now the end is in sight.

Look forward to seeing Red Cheetah back on the water soon.
 
Peter the refit continues to be interesting and a great 'arm chair' lesson in boat building and rigging. Looks like its all come to together now which must be encouraging now the end is in sight.

Look forward to seeing Red Cheetah back on the water soon.

Thanks Graham:)
Nice to hear you are being entertained by the build, sometimes lousy workmanship from the original builder can be a real benefit, as Red Cheetah is going to get a low profile carbon wind deflector instead of the windscreen and radar arch i set about the task of removing the old screen.. something i expected to be pretty difficult as it is supposed to be bonded on?? even though there was 6 or so tubes of sikaflex in the various cavities less than 10% of it was actually stuck to anything so it made the task fairly quick and easy which allowed more time to mock up the carbon trim tabs so that i can now make a mould for re-inforcement and cylinder mounting.

Peter
 

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Hi All,
Fitted the raw water pressure relief valves, these are connected with hydraulic quick release couplings which have been machined to reduce their weight, they can also be used for flushing the engines. Permanently fitted the carbon fairlead cover to the nose and also the removable hatch, checked the fitment of the aluminium wing mounting.

Peter
 

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Hi Peter,
Do you have a hoped for launch date for both of the Huntons ? must be frustrating not having them on the water when you have put so much time and effort into them.
I for one, cant wait to see the results !
 
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