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28-03-2018, 02:32 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: London
Boat name: Athito
Boat make: Sunseeker Superhawk 34
Engines: 2x300hp Yanmar 6LP
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London
Posts: 149
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Waterproof underwater connectors
My Bravo 3 trim senders seem to have a life of 2 or 3 years before they fail, and when they fail the outdrives need to be backed off to allow the new wires to be threaded through - making it a "big job" not just 10 minutes to swap out the senders.
Am now thinking to have the wires come out through the outdrives but then cut them and put them into a waterproof connecting block - then re-joining them with the "new" wire tails off the new sender.
Any clever ideas?
40-something knot boat so there's a fair amount of friction and water movement around the drives...
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28-03-2018, 08:03 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Crayford, Kent.
Occupation: Electrical gezza!
Interests: Petrolhead
Boat name: Wayne Kerr
Boat make: Phantom xl
Engines: Mercury 2.5, 200(ish)
Cruising area: Essex, Hampshire, Mediterranean
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Crayford, Kent.
Posts: 1,199
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Screwfix MAY have a solution. Can't remember the part number.
It's an IP65(?) gel filled connector suitable for at least a couple of cables.
Try a search, if you can't find it, get back to me.
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30-03-2018, 08:17 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Surrey
Occupation: Motorsport Development inc Engine Managment
Boat make: 21ft
Engines: Various
Cruising area: Solent / Kent / Cornwall
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 375
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Might be a bit large, (they arnt really) but these are pretty good:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Sd20-4-4-Pi...L5p/1987258535
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01-04-2018, 09:47 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: London
Boat name: Athito
Boat make: Sunseeker Superhawk 34
Engines: 2x300hp Yanmar 6LP
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London
Posts: 149
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That's the idea..... if I can seal the ends enough then they should be okay to immerse.
Cheers!
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02-04-2018, 07:50 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Country: England
Location: Crayford, Kent.
Occupation: Electrical gezza!
Interests: Petrolhead
Boat name: Wayne Kerr
Boat make: Phantom xl
Engines: Mercury 2.5, 200(ish)
Cruising area: Essex, Hampshire, Mediterranean
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Crayford, Kent.
Posts: 1,199
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I'll be interested to know the conclusions on this one, Athito.
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05-04-2018, 09:55 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 47
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These are really good you crimp them like a normal butt connector then heat it up which shrinks the heat shrink and also melts the glue inside and makes a waterproof connection aslong as it has been done properly
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F121214389438
Si
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05-04-2018, 10:01 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Country: In the UK, in my office, working, waiting to go boating.
Occupation: Chartered Engineer
Interests: boats, water, snow, football
Boat name: “DoubleSix”; “Blue Lias”
Boat make: Ring 21c; Pacemaker 21
Engines: Opti 200; twin Volvo AQ110s
Cruising area: Lyme Bay
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 138
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IP rating for permanent immersion should be at least IP 67.
IP64 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from water spray from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP65 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from low pressure water jets from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP66 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from high pressure water jets from any direction, limited ingress protection
IP67 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from immersion between 15 centimetres and 1 metre in depth, limited ingress protection
IP68 Protected from total dust ingress Protected from long term immersion up to a specified pressure, limited ingress protection
IP69K Protected from total dust ingress Protected from steam-jet cleaning, limited ingress protection
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05-04-2018, 10:25 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Country: In the UK, in my office, working, waiting to go boating.
Occupation: Chartered Engineer
Interests: boats, water, snow, football
Boat name: “DoubleSix”; “Blue Lias”
Boat make: Ring 21c; Pacemaker 21
Engines: Opti 200; twin Volvo AQ110s
Cruising area: Lyme Bay
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 138
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edit to the above:
IP rating for permanent immersion should be at least IP 67. IP stands for ingress protection. The first number refers to solid particles (dust) and the second number refers to liquids. The definitions for the second digit are given below. Further reading (internet searches!) will show what tests are required fora product for it to achieve an IP rating.
4 Protected against splash water from any direction.
5 Protected against low pressure water jets from any direction. Limited ingress permitted.
6 Protected against high pressure water jets from any direction. Limited ingress permitted.
7 Protected against short periods of immersion in water.
8 Protected against long, durable periods of immersion in water.
Toger's idea for a "potted" solution is like many marine environment electrical equipment where the entire connection or electrical enclosure is filled with resin e.g. often used for underwater connectors such as on bilge/salvage pumps. HOWEVER, as they are glued ("potted") you cannot simply disconnect them as they are encased in resin.
Have you considered running the cables through the hull as they are now, but then running them upwards outside of the hull to a more protected level/height e.g. just above the static waterline and make the connection there? IP 65 might then be OK.
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05-04-2018, 12:52 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: London
Boat name: Athito
Boat make: Sunseeker Superhawk 34
Engines: 2x300hp Yanmar 6LP
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleSix
Have you considered running the cables through the hull as they are now, but then running them upwards outside of the hull to a more protected level/height e.g. just above the static waterline and make the connection there? IP 65 might then be OK.
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Yep - am thinking about this....
Cheers for the thoughts on IP rating as well....
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05-04-2018, 04:35 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Country: In the UK, in my office, working, waiting to go boating.
Occupation: Chartered Engineer
Interests: boats, water, snow, football
Boat name: “DoubleSix”; “Blue Lias”
Boat make: Ring 21c; Pacemaker 21
Engines: Opti 200; twin Volvo AQ110s
Cruising area: Lyme Bay
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 138
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...Or developing the idea still further, you could make a further penetration in the transom and run the fixed/permanent cable back inboard and make the connection there, and then run the "renewable" cable back out through the same penetration?
(Clearly this is more interesting than my real work is today !!)
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10-04-2018, 07:27 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: Weston-super-Mare
Occupation: Engineer
Boat make: Sunseeker Thunderhawk 43
Engines: Mercruiser 502s
Cruising area: Lyme Bay
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Weston-super-Mare
Posts: 86
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Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
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30-04-2018, 05:17 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Country: UK
Location: London
Boat name: Athito
Boat make: Sunseeker Superhawk 34
Engines: 2x300hp Yanmar 6LP
Cruising area: Solent
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
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Probably the best idea yet....what "resin" would you use??? Not something I am that familiar with.....
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01-05-2018, 10:38 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Country: england
Location: southampton
Occupation: engineer
Interests: lots
Boat make: scorpion 8.1
Engines: 250HO
Cruising area: solent
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: southampton
Posts: 1,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
Why not just cut / splice / solder / heat-shrink (resin filled) ?
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I agree. Heatshrink/glue crimps or resin filled joints. I had a couple of heatshrink/gluecrimps fail last year, they were very short and cheap looking so I now also heat shrink sleeve over top. Resin filled joints are perfect for permanent immersion
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04-05-2018, 09:49 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Country: In the UK, in my office, working, waiting to go boating.
Occupation: Chartered Engineer
Interests: boats, water, snow, football
Boat name: “DoubleSix”; “Blue Lias”
Boat make: Ring 21c; Pacemaker 21
Engines: Opti 200; twin Volvo AQ110s
Cruising area: Lyme Bay
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glen76
I agree. Heatshrink/glue crimps or resin filled joints. I had a couple of heatshrink/gluecrimps fail last year, they were very short and cheap looking so I now also heat shrink sleeve over top. Resin filled joints are perfect for permanent immersion
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Yes, it is the best waterproof solution but the original objective was to make it a quick or renewable joint which a heat shrink resin fill isn't.
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05-05-2018, 10:25 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 47
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I think by quick he was meaning cutting and joining the wires on the outside of the boat rather than removing the drive and feeding them inside the boat and finding the connections?
Si
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07-06-2018, 02:02 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,891
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RS Components is the place to go for one of their milspec IP rated connectors.
Screwfix - no way for something like this.
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