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Old 12-09-2011, 01:19 AM   #1
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Cougar H225 inboard diesel conversion

This thread has now been moved from the link below to its correct heading.

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Glen76-that kevlar looks hard work??? I love this boat... Keep up the good work

It was, I'm glad I'm not a spider would not want to do that every day. My theory is that the Kevlar follows the lineís of stress. Then I added 20 strands of Kevlar roving to the inner circumference and built the radius up with some epoxy filler and added carbon from the face of the hoop to the outer hull. Gave this a quick flat the added another 3 layers of carbon. Hope this will replace some of the strength that has been lost though removal of the bulkhead. Then 20 strands Kevlar roving each side running length ways along the top of the runners and 600g woven glass over the top of that. Have carried the same in the engine compartment just to add a final bit of strength.
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Old 15-09-2011, 08:17 PM   #2
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Cut all the floor this week ready to be bonded in from 9mm Gaboon ply. The floor space is surprisingly large and will quite easily sleep two, with an area of 8 feet long, six feet at the wide end and 3 feet of flat floor at the narrow end. I have recessed the under bed locker hatch so that it is flush with the floor and this give a 12 inch deep watertight locket nearly 4 feet long. I have also fitted a watertight hatch into the bulkhead that when opened gives access to more storage space with a length of 4 feet to the next bulkhead. Should have plent of dry storage on this boat.
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Old 17-09-2011, 08:05 AM   #3
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Simple question, how do you get the woven roving to lay flat up and over the hoop?? Ive had great difficulty with it in tight areas. I presume your using epoxy resins? Is the carbon easy to use?
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Old 19-09-2011, 12:07 AM   #4
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Kevlar Layup

Hi Glen

The Kevlar on the faceís of the hoop was laid one strand of roving at a time by coating the face with epoxy and whilst wet cutting each piece to length and wetting it onto the hoop.

The inner circumference of the hoop was laid up by first putting screws into a length of wood with about 20mm still protruding. Then the Kevlar was wound end to end to build up as many strands of roving as needed, apply a small amount of resin to the Kevlar then cut the multi strand of roving to length as needed whilst still wet and apply to a wetted surface. This can be done a few times to a circle with different joining or overlap points as needed. The same method was used for the engine bay.

Itís a bit fiddly and work time is a bit limited depending on the epoxy hardener. Hindsight is a great thing and if I did it again I would use a slow hardener in a room with air con or on a cold day down to about 5-10 deg C to slow the activation and lay the Kevlar and carbon up all in one go, then heat the work area with a heater to 20-25 deg C to start the cure.

Every mod or repair on the boat is epoxy as the boat was originally made with vinyl ester resin and only epoxy with a well prepared surface sticks to it well. All filler used again is epoxy as polyester filler can absorb water.

IMHO working with carbon is great and easier to cut and form than woven glass, the only down side I have found with carbon is you only need a few fibers protruding with cured resin and it produces microscopic needles that are so rigid they go strait in to your skin and snap of like splinters and are so fine it makes them very difficult to get out.

Kevlar is a bitch to cut so much so if you cut woven cloth with a new Stanly knife blade it is blunt within cutting 6 inches, it will not cut with normal sharp scissors so I bought some Kevlar scissors from flebay. They have a micro serrated blade and are magic.
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Old 25-09-2011, 01:26 AM   #5
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Update 25th Sepember

Actually feel like I am starting to get somewhere with it now, all modifications and filling to the structure are done, as are all the repairs redone with epoxy carbon and Kevlar. The boat was originally a race boat, little attention was made to keeping water out of the inside bow area of the boat. I made some 10mm dia barbed fittings and epoxyed these into the bow access hatch recess and the bow rail recess front and rear so when it rains water does not collect. Then made and polished some barbed skin fitting from 16mm s/s bolts for drains to out side the boat. Glued the floor in and filled the gaps with epoxy filler and sanded them flat. Then glass tape and epoxy to edges and joins. Also shortened the driverís foot well and made a new foot well end from 6mm ply. Then covered this with carbon Kevlar weave as had some spare again with epoxy, it came out surprisingly rigid. Hopefully back to the painters soon to have the cockpit and top side painted.

Have also ordered some Livorsi gauges from the USA. As itís a experimental single engine setup I want to monitor the engine as much as possible so have ordered the following gauges. Volts, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, drive trim, turbo boost, raw water flow gauge, and rev counter. For setup will have a separate plug in box with charge temp either side of the charge cooler, turbo inlet temp and gearbox temp.
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Old 25-09-2011, 02:15 AM   #6
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I have been asked why Iím using a Mercedes engine, in my opinion Mercedes make very strong diesel engines. Below is a link to a drift car running a standard 3 liter straight six engine. The only modís are Scania turbo and up rated fuel pump. In the video they are producing 450bhp and 800Nm torque. This year they have added a supercharger as well and recon its over 500bhp. The OM642 V6 engine I am using is supposed to be even stronger. So 350bhp reliably should possible.



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Old 03-10-2011, 11:29 PM   #7
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Update 3rd October

Update 3rd October

Was quote £2500 for new fuel cell so decided to go for aluminum instead, I thought about making my own but itís one thing I din't want is a split tank 10 miles off shore so I decided to take it to a specialist. Made a mock up of the new fuel tank in MDF a few weeks ago and took it to Oval316 in Pool, Dorset. Got a call Thursday to say it was ready so collected it Friday. They made an excellent and it was a perfect fit, even came CE approved and pressure tested and hold 120 liter's. The access hatch was the old one from my fuel cell as it was reusable.

Also added some Kevlar to the transom to give it a bit more strength, as have had an idear that if the C of G is too far forward I may and add a 12in extention box to the drive as this would move nearly 100Kg further back.
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:41 PM   #8
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Looks great , plenty of room to sleep 2 in front
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:26 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=freddy21;209812]Update 3rd October

so I decided to take it to a specialist. Made a mock up of the new fuel tank in MDF a few weeks ago and took it to Oval316 in Pool, Dorset. Got a call Thursday to say it was ready so collected it Friday. They made an excellent and it was a perfect fit, even came CE approved and pressure tested and hold 120 liter's. The access hatch was the old one from my fuel cell as it was reusable.

Thank you for the recommendation, I am glad that you are happy with it and it, looks like it fits well too ! SIMON
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:49 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=Pennpromo;209932]
Quote:
Originally Posted by freddy21 View Post
Update 3rd October

so I decided to take it to a specialist. Made a mock up of the new fuel tank in MDF a few weeks ago and took it to Oval316 in Pool, Dorset. Got a call Thursday to say it was ready so collected it Friday. They made an excellent and it was a perfect fit, even came CE approved and pressure tested and hold 120 liter's. The access hatch was the old one from my fuel cell as it was reusable.

Thank you for the recommendation, I am glad that you are happy with it and it, looks like it fits well too ! SIMON
I also like to use a specialist tank manufacturer, but if for any reason he can't oblige, then I take it to Simon as well!
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:02 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=Tony Davis;209935]
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Originally Posted by Pennpromo View Post

I also like to use a specialist tank manufacturer, but if for any reason he can't oblige, then I take it to Simon as well!
Cheeky bug*er !!!
If we are too busy I could sub it out to JC anyway !
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:18 PM   #12
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:36 PM   #13
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Update 2nd November

Have made a new fuel tank access hatch which also holds the tank in position. I thought I would experiment with some new methods and ideas. I made a punch up to make an indentation in the ply wood the size of a 6mm penny washer then glued them in with aircraft epoxy. I then cut notches at 1 inch intervals around the perimeter of the hatch. The wood was then bound with Kevlar roving before covering with 600gsm woven mat and epoxy. I thought the Kevlar roving would make the panel stiffer but it did not make a lot of difference
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:48 PM   #14
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Made a bulkhead to fit below the rear floor from 10mm ply and have epoxyed it in with 600gsm woven matt and cut a hole in the rear flood to accept a small hatch. This is going to be for an anchor and chain locker. The black hatch will match the non slip black industrial linoleum I have to cover the cockpit floor area.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:57 PM   #15
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All this fiddling seems to take for ever, just cant wait to get it in the water. I have boxed in the drivers foot well and fitted am access hatch which will allow me to get to the instruments, electrics and fuel tank access hatch. I did not need to be water tight as it is side the cabin so I found a loft assess hatch which fitted perfectly without restricting access, it is also very light. I can remove the tank access hatch to get in side the tank to clean it out etc with the tank in situ
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Old 18-12-2011, 10:31 PM   #16
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Progress has been slow as it was supposed to go to have the top painted end of November but my painter is flat out and it takes up all the paint shop so have been promised he will get it in after Christmas, so have been fiddling with odds and sods.

Decided to check the layout of the heat exchangers and sea strainer. The strainer is mounted on the left engine bearer. The blue heat exchanger exchanges sea water to coolant mix for the charge cooler to the right. The grey heat exchanger is the main engine cooler as it is a sealed system.

Also decided to fit the piano hinge and gas struts for the engine cover as the more that I can do now the quicker it will go together when painted.
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Old 18-12-2011, 10:37 PM   #17
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Have made some custom battery trays to fit optima batteries. one tray is for engine starting and the other for auxiliary when moored. Made form 316, tig welded and polished. The first one is monted as low as posible next to the chrge cooler to keep low C of G, the second is mounted next to the transom to the left to counter balance the weight of the driver and keep weight to the rear.
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Old 18-12-2011, 10:47 PM   #18
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The sea strainer has been scratch built from a stainless pot cast from 316 that I found in a scrap yard. The lid is from 1” Perspex and it has a quick release cam band to access the strainer. Rather than have to find an Allen key undo six bolts pull the strainer out find the bolts that have droped under the engineand re assemble, I can empty the strainer and be on my was again in under a minute.

The top hose is for flow in and the one below is for flow out. The tap is for drain down or water hose connection for running engine on dry land. The valve above is 1.5 bar pressure relief valve which will vent overboard to relive pressure spikes form the raw water pick up.

Polishing 316 takes forever
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Old 20-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #19
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Hard to tell from the photograph, but I assume you've mounted the strainer above the waterline?
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Old 20-12-2011, 06:25 PM   #20
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Hi Tony and thanks for your comment.

The height of the top of the stainer is level with the waterline, not ideal. The pick up pipe is on the transom and to the left of the bell housing is a ball valve conected to the pick up pipe on the inside. So I can isolate the stainer when clearing, or have you thought of another problem that I may have overlooked.

I spoke to Gareth at Drivers some time ago and he sugested that I should use the IMCO bottem leg water pickup for a shower to cool the leg gearbox. Any thoughts on this ?
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