Revenger build thread!! - Page 5

Carl · 21-01-2010, 09:01 PM

have to say i admire you larby,i wouldnt know where to start,i hope everything goes to plan,and lite relief,doesnt give you to much grief with the rebuild

larby · 21-01-2010, 09:12 PM

Compliments indeed! You're gonna make me blush!

I never know where to start either so i just blunder in with a hammer and grinder and hope for the best!

At least it provides entertainment for everyone and my god am i learning a lot from it! Can't wait to come across to the UK with her to show off all my hard work!

Cheers, James

Jon Fuller · 22-01-2010, 08:50 AM

Them Sabre saw's are awesome eh. great tool.

Well done James.

PS, it looks like 13' is the longest that scaff boards are available, at least from normal sources.

http://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk...tails/528.html

larby · 22-01-2010, 02:30 PM

Hmm, I'd say my longits are about 19ft long, I'll measure them this evening. Any idea what else I could use?

dowdy · 22-01-2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larby

Hmm, I'd say my longits are about 19ft long, I'll measure them this evening. Any idea what else I could use?

Marine ply with staggered joints glass resin in between the three layers,screwed together and clamped till dry,csm over the whole thing before glassing to hull.Truss firm up here is making trusses that cover 32ft span,comply with bldg,regs etc,and dont glass em,just screwed and glued.Bolt a length of 2x2 1/4 ally angle down the whole length at the top of the longit,not only will it strengthen it further you have a fixing for your floor bolting thro the ally,thats what Steve Baker done with my p25,THE MAN cant be wrong now can he?Still as strong today as the day he built it,1984.The build thread,rather you than me mate,looks like a lot of graft there,if there was a medal for boat project taker onners you would defo be 1st. in the queue for it.

dowdy · 22-01-2010, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larby

Ha ha, she's not my wife yet, should be though seeing as she loves powerboats!
Should be good hopefully, she's a cracking hull to have as a base...

James

You not taking a chisel to her aswell are you?

larby · 22-01-2010, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dowdy

You not taking a chisel to her aswell are you?

Damn right I am, haven't you seen in in the photos?!

My original plan was to use ply for the longits but I've been recommended against it quite strongly more than once, not sure of the exact reasons why though. I'd rather make them from one piece of 'wood'. Just not sure what spec that wood needs to be exactly!
At the end of the day the hull is pretty flexible, so there's gonna be a lot more strain on the longits than usual. The better they are, the better the chance of it all staying together. I just can't afford the douglas fir which would be ideal, such as used in the phantoms!

As for the floor, it hovers above the chines in the P25 due to the shallow V, which i would imagine is why it's a bolt in affair. In mine the deck sits on the chine so will need to be bedded in krestomer and glassed in. My plan there is to do as Jon suggested earlier, again, for more strength.

James

Jono · 22-01-2010, 07:51 PM

Can someone explain why "engineered" wood isn't upto the job? Curious..not argumentative..for a change. It's just that I've seen some wonderful...German, but let's not hold that against them...beams for structural use..laminated up...and they're certainly strong.
Cheers...

larby · 22-01-2010, 08:01 PM

I'd be equally interested!

It'd be by far the easiest route for me, and a few have suggested it now, but generally those who really know their stuff have said it's a no-go...

James

Tony Davis · 22-01-2010, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larby

My original plan was to use ply for the longits
James

It's all I use....

My understanding is that other than the engine beds, which need to be strong in compression, the main use for the longitudinals is for something to wrap the glass round.

Infact, most modern boats are now built using foam instead of wood.

baj666 · 22-01-2010, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larby

I'd be equally interested!

It'd be by far the easiest route for me, and a few have suggested it now, but generally those who really know their stuff have said it's a no-go...

James

ime in the construction industry and manufactured beams from plywood apprantly cant be beaten for stable long term strength not clued up on hull construction thou...have you had a mooch around salvage yards for long pitch pine purlins from large old buildings...would have to be ripped down for the width but you would certanly be able to get the length you want plus its done all its moving and stretching in its roof life

***edit*** why cant i seem to spell correctly tonight

Tony Davis · 22-01-2010, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baj666

ime in the construction industry and manufactured beams from plywood apprantly cant be beaten for stable long term strength

very true, after a couple of hours in the gym, I quite often have a coffee & pastry in the bar at my local David Lloyd.

Looking up at the ceiling, it's amazing the amount of span the laminated roof beams have, must be in excess of 60ft!!!

Tony Davis · 22-01-2010, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larby

but generally those who really know their stuff have said it's a no-go...

James

Who's that then?

dowdy · 22-01-2010, 09:27 PM

Larby lad,lets both shove all our projects in the bin and go halves on that Cougar 46,now THAT is a boat worth workin on,which half do you want?Me want the half with the steering wheel on.

jw. · 22-01-2010, 09:55 PM

Isn't the problem with ply that half of the wood grain goes the wrong way, unlike a laminated beam where it's all longitudinal but because of the variation in wood structure the laminations' grain criss-crosses to prevent splitting.

It is possible to join battens of wood so that the joint is as strong as the parent timber by using a LONG and ACCURATE mating scarf joint and a high performance adhesive. Certainly not laminating resin! IMHO of course.

hunton69 · 22-01-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dowdy

Larby lad,lets both shove all our projects in the bin and go halves on that Cougar 46,now THAT is a boat worth workin on,which half do you want?Me want the half with the steering wheel on.

Make it thirds and i'm in. After all you can't race the 46 unless you have a bottomless pit. But what a great poker run boat.

larby · 23-01-2010, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Davis

Who's that then?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon Fuller

I would strongly suggest finding some way to use one piece longits if you can (not plywood!).

There's one, (awaits barrage of sarky comments!) Can't remember who else it was though, remember someone mentioning it. Maybe it will just have to be ply then, It's not gonna have to last forever anyhoo. The ply that i took out was pretty well broken up, but then it wasn't put in very well which probably didn't help!
The idea of using really strong longits instead of foam or ply etc was to take the strain off the glass to help stop any further delamination.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunton69

Make it thirds and i'm in. After all you can't race the 46 unless you have a bottomless pit. But what a great poker run boat.

I've got one of those bottomless pits! I keep it in the vinery and throw money into it daily. It's called 'Lite Relief'!

It's almost tempting though!! Long way to go for a trip out on the boat for me though!! I could afford it myself if i hadn't bought and restored these last two boats!!

Burty · 23-01-2010, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dowdy

Larby lad,lets both shove all our projects in the bin and go halves on that Cougar 46,now THAT is a boat worth workin on,which half do you want?Me want the half with the steering wheel on.

why have the steering wheel when you could have the throttles??

Jono · 23-01-2010, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jw.

Isn't the problem with ply that half of the wood grain goes the wrong way, unlike a laminated beam where it's all longitudinal but because of the variation in wood structure the laminations' grain criss-crosses to prevent splitting.

It is possible to join battens of wood so that the joint is as strong as the parent timber by using a LONG and ACCURATE mating scarf joint and a high performance adhesive. Certainly not laminating resin! IMHO of course.

Jeff, I'm not refering to plywood as we think of it, I'm talking about large "planks" laminated into a beam... say 8" X 6" X 1/2" or whatever...but long planks glued with well staggered joints...that way all the grain runs the same as a "solid" wood.

Burty · 23-01-2010, 08:55 AM

depends in the application, we make bullet proof doors at work but we cannot join timber, although it is very very strong (as strong as a single piece if joined correctly) it is not as flexable so when the bullet hits it explodes rather than gives! not that you'll be shooting at your boat but shirley all the bouncing around is almost the same effect