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Old 16-01-2011, 03:36 PM   #81
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Go jump in front of a train.
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Old 16-01-2011, 06:00 PM   #82
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Go jump in front of a train.
I did that already and now they want me to pay for the train !!!!!

Back to TOPIC now !
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Old 16-01-2011, 10:22 PM   #83
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I did that already and now they want me to pay for the train !!!!!

Back to TOPIC now !
I think what people are trying to tell you is you can't bother to read what the guy wants there isn't any point in replying with a useless pointless answer ............





........ He's fitting diesels
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:38 PM   #84
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I think what people are trying to tell you is you can't bother to read what the guy wants there isn't any point in replying with a useless pointless answer ............





........ He's fitting diesels
and.....I SAY THEY FIT !!!!!
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Old 17-01-2011, 07:15 AM   #85
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and.... WE SAY YOU'RE A COCK.
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Old 17-01-2011, 02:18 PM   #86
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and.... WE SAY YOU'RE A COCK.
and i say u have no clue what u say anyways, because all u do is say and nothing else !!!!
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Old 22-01-2011, 10:29 AM   #87
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Entirely possible, though you'd need one front and back. I used to tune cars and it's quite common to have a little very firm shok absorber bracing the motor to the engine bay to reduce engine movement, for those too tight/lazy to use uprated engine mounts.

Something along those lines between the motors along with uprated mounts should solve the issue, 4" is quite a gap as it is!

James
Hi James,

I'm happy to fit any mounts that these engines should have on them, even though they are less than two years old and less than 50 hours on them (2/3 of that only ticking over). I was allowing 4" between the engines because that was the space between the original engines. I would like to drop this gap as much as possible, without causing any damage to the top end parts (turbo's etc). This is why I was asking about putting something between each engine, to stop them hitting, IF there is any movement, side to side. If I can keep them 1" apart then I will be closer to the original 33" centers and the height of the engins will drop and to me, that means better C.O.G and less work lifting the aft deck.

What do you think?

Pete
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Old 22-01-2011, 10:53 AM   #88
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and.....I SAY THEY FIT !!!!!
Hi Daredevil,

These are what are going in and I wouldn't want to change the headers etc as they have been custome made for this setup.

Pete
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Old 22-01-2011, 08:09 PM   #89
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Thats a pretty tasty looking motor!! 1" sounds mighty close, but may be achievable with the right mounts and some form of brace as suggested.
I must admit I'm starting to doubt saying you shouldn't move to solid mounts, it'd definately help solve the problem quite a bit and the vibrations may not be that bad. I guess it's down to how much of an issue some vibration may be as you won't know until it's too late.

I honestly don't know what a standard clearance is around a motor such as this in a boat, someone must know, and I'd imagine that will hold your answer. I can see a shock absorbing brace working really well personally but it would be pretty experimental and therefore a risk.

Is there any room to stagger the motors at all? I can't remember if we touched on this before?

Cheers, James
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Old 25-01-2011, 06:33 PM   #90
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Hi James, Thanks, they are quite special.

I am only trying to get them as close as possible, to keep the X low and not have too much rebuilding, where they stick out or the aft sun lounge.

I don't know enough, to say one way or the other, about solid mounts. All I understand is that they stop a lot of side to side movement and this is what I need to prevent, if they are close together. I think that the "brace" idea is more what I'm looking at (unless otherwise informed), so that I can keep them close together. I agree, 1" is close but there is no reason to get between them, for service reasons, so they can be as close as is safe.

Staggering the motors would be a major problem. A lot of internal re-fabrications etc.

Maybe we will get a little more input sooooon.

Thanks for the time you have taken James, appreciate it.

Pete

Quote:
Originally Posted by larby View Post
Thats a pretty tasty looking motor!! 1" sounds mighty close, but may be achievable with the right mounts and some form of brace as suggested.
I must admit I'm starting to doubt saying you shouldn't move to solid mounts, it'd definately help solve the problem quite a bit and the vibrations may not be that bad. I guess it's down to how much of an issue some vibration may be as you won't know until it's too late.

I honestly don't know what a standard clearance is around a motor such as this in a boat, someone must know, and I'd imagine that will hold your answer. I can see a shock absorbing brace working really well personally but it would be pretty experimental and therefore a risk.

Is there any room to stagger the motors at all? I can't remember if we touched on this before?

Cheers, James
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Old 25-01-2011, 06:49 PM   #91
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Have you thought about using chockfast ? It would assist you a lot with getting everything lined up and sorted out. You could get everthing very close a then secure it with the chockfast. Those are pretty big engines and flexible mounts would have to be heavy duty to control them to an inch. Tough Call but then you knew that before you started.
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Old 25-01-2011, 07:24 PM   #92
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Have you thought about using chockfast ? It would assist you a lot with getting everything lined up and sorted out. You could get everthing very close a then secure it with the chockfast. Those are pretty big engines and flexible mounts would have to be heavy duty to control them to an inch. Tough Call but then you knew that before you started.
Hi Techteam, I never heard of it but just read up a little. Wouldn't that give the same result as offshore mounts?

I agree that these will be hard to control but I would rather work this out now, instead of re glassing the stern.

Thanks

Pete
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Old 25-01-2011, 08:45 PM   #93
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I'm a little confused by that chockfast stuff, how is it used? I don't get how you pour engine mounts?!

James
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Old 25-01-2011, 11:36 PM   #94
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It's quite common, I've used it for years for engine/transmission mounts cutlass bearings etc. I haven't followed this thread much can I ask do your engines have an alfa type rear housing that bolts up to the inner mounting plate using the sprung bolts? It's a while since I did anything alpha. I can do a sketch with what I would suggest may work although it would be a complete guess as I haven't seen the boat/engine configuration.
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Old 26-01-2011, 04:18 AM   #95
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Quote:
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Hi Daredevil,

These are what are going in and I wouldn't want to change the headers etc as they have been custome made for this setup.

Pete
Nice engines, so what do they messure from center crank to the outside edge of the manifold at the widest point ??? oh, in inches..lol
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Old 26-01-2011, 03:47 PM   #96
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Nice engines, so what do they messure from center crank to the outside edge of the manifold at the widest point ??? oh, in inches..lol

Wouldn´t it be easier to just ask how wide the engines are complete and by manifold you must refer to the exhaust manifold/header ?
And you said they´ll fit already so why do you need to ask about measurements

Bytheway I´m quite sure a GM6.2/6.5 fits wherever a Smallblock does but I think Jon Fuller knows it for sure in a side by side application and can give you a minimum distance from crank to crank for example
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Old 26-01-2011, 03:51 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larby View Post
Thats a pretty tasty looking motor!! 1" sounds mighty close, but may be achievable with the right mounts and some form of brace as suggested.
I must admit I'm starting to doubt saying you shouldn't move to solid mounts, it'd definately help solve the problem quite a bit and the vibrations may not be that bad. I guess it's down to how much of an issue some vibration may be as you won't know until it's too late.

I honestly don't know what a standard clearance is around a motor such as this in a boat, someone must know, and I'd imagine that will hold your answer. I can see a shock absorbing brace working really well personally but it would be pretty experimental and therefore a risk.

Is there any room to stagger the motors at all? I can't remember if we touched on this before?

Cheers, James
Hmmm, why not have a cradle that bolts both engines together solidly then have that attached to the hull with cushioned mounts?
Thisway a tight fit would be possible... or ?
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Old 27-01-2011, 01:57 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeOakley View Post
Wouldn´t it be easier to just ask how wide the engines are complete and by manifold you must refer to the exhaust manifold/header ?
And you said they´ll fit already so why do you need to ask about measurements

Bytheway I´m quite sure a GM6.2/6.5 fits wherever a Smallblock does but I think Jon Fuller knows it for sure in a side by side application and can give you a minimum distance from crank to crank for example
a little smart ass ??lol

and your other post , cushion'd mount....HAHAHAHAHAHA what a moran.
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Old 27-01-2011, 11:27 AM   #99
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Have a read through this, it's quite informative...

http://www.cmdmarine.com/Products/dr...directions.pdf

Although they're aren't your motors, that are a few things that are relevant, and you get to read about "chocking" compound!
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Old 27-01-2011, 11:28 AM   #100
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This is usefull too....

http://www.mercurymarine.com/repower...gs/?category=2
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