Moving sterndrives

[Alacrity]

Moran:- "The preferred method of spelling "moron" by morons, particularly that of a Missouri redneck at a rally supporting the US led war in Iraq."

[Peterjfinch]

Thanks Tony, will read up and get back to you.

Pete

Originally Posted by Tony Davis

Have a read through this, it's quite informative...

http://www.cmdmarine.com/Products/dr...directions.pdf

Although they're aren't your motors, that are a few things that are relevant, and you get to read about "chocking" compound!

[Peterjfinch]

Hi Mike,

Not got the numbers in front of me, at the moment but these are not standard, as you can see from the risers. I´m just trying to keep them as close together, as possible, to keep them as low as possible, in the boat.

Thanks

Pete

Originally Posted by MikeOakley

Wouldn´t it be easier to just ask how wide the engines are complete and by manifold you must refer to the exhaust manifold/header ?
And you said they´ll fit already so why do you need to ask about measurements

Bytheway I´m quite sure a GM6.2/6.5 fits wherever a Smallblock does but I think Jon Fuller knows it for sure in a side by side application and can give you a minimum distance from crank to crank for example

[larby]

I actually quite like the idea of a solid cradle for both engines then sat on rubber mounts, that could be a good way forward, if a little 'outside the box'.

Thanks for the document Tony, very interesting if a little lengthly!!

James

[scarab racing]

Hi Peter
Hows it all going out there, any more news / updates or photo's?
Hope its all good
all the best
mark

[Boat1]

I strongly caution against any form of cushion mount system. Your coupler alignment to the transom assembly must remain constant or you will have failure very quickly. The engines must be rigid mounted to the boat stringers with proper alignment. If the engines vibrate, thats what they do. The clearance between the engines is more dictated by service access than anything else. I have mounted engines 1/2 - 1" apart with no issues but you could not get to anything in the bilge, and it allows no changes in the exhaust style or dimensions. The concept of rubber mounting will lead to coupler failure quickly. Good Luck.

[DAREDEVIL]

atleast one person knows what he is talking about. THANKS !!!

[MikeOakley]

Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL

a little smart ass ??lol

and your other post , cushion'd mount....HAHAHAHAHAHA what a moran.

A big enough ass to wipe the toothless smirk outta your mug...

But yes I understand you don´t get what I´m telling by a cradle that is cushioned to the hull.
You´ve apparently never seen any Really Big Engines in real luxury yachts being installed.
FYI I´ve made those cushioned motor mounts in a company with 160 coworkers...
Moron.

[MikeOakley]

Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL

atleast one person knows what he is talking about. THANKS !!!

and it´s not you.

[wiggy808]

Hi Peter,

Quite a job you've got on there!

We run a 40ft custom tender (wooden) she has twin Yanmar 4LHAs on Bravo 2 'X' diesels drives swinging 25" props. The engines are on the original Yanmar supplied anti vibration mounts. We've got over 1500hrs on them and most of them have been flat out. Mainly deliveries across the Med or between Caribbean islands, so not much flat water stuff.
We stripped both drives for routine checks and there were no issues at all with couplers etc.

Most Anti vibration mounts do not allow a huge amount of movement, ours certainly don't anyway.

I certainly would not want rigid mounted diesels, especially in a pleasure boat.

Good luck with the project, it'll all be worth the effort soon.

Chris

[DAREDEVIL]

Originally Posted by MikeOakley

A big enough ass to wipe the toothless smirk outta your mug...

But yes I understand you don´t get what I´m telling by a cradle that is cushioned to the hull.
You´ve apparently never seen any Really Big Engines in real luxury yachts being installed.
FYI I´ve made those cushioned motor mounts in a company with 160 coworkers...
Moron.

HAHAHAHA...shows that you have no clue !!!!

the big ass Yachts your talking about are not using sterndrives...and have a very different set up, but since you are MR KNOW IT ALL ..i let you tell your english folks what to do and laugh my ass off if they listen to a keybord Hulk like you are.
I think its funny how many people want to beat my couple of teeth i have left into my head, and when most of them are at some US racesites they smile and say nice hello..TOOOO FUNNNYYYYY.
Just like you asshole. I say Bring it on and stand your ground MOFO !

[wiggy808]

You really do not help yourself!

[larby]

That's because the guy's clearly a complete and utter tosser, I have no idea at all why he's still allowed here when all he aims to do is offend people.
I've found this to be a very constructive and interesting thread, it's a shame he's being allowed to ruin it for the sake of Peter and everyone else who is interested.

Peter, As you're aware, most boat engines come as standard with rubber mounts to isolate any vibration from the boat and i think, to a lesser extent, protect the engine from hull flex, as shown in Tony's PDF.

I can see nothing wrong with either mounting the engines as normal on these and then adding a little brace between them, or using a cradle as someone suggested, with the cradle then mounted on these mounts. For what it's worth, I'd mount the engines individually, then put a brace on the top front and back, using the engine as a stressed member. This way it's as 'standard' as possible for any future buyers, and lighter without the cradle.

All the best,

James

[Peterjfinch]

Hi mark, long time.

Nothing new I´m afraid. I want to get all the info necessary and when the weather picks up a bit I´ll be getting itchy.

All the best.

Pete

Originally Posted by scarab racing

Hi Peter
Hows it all going out there, any more news / updates or photo's?
Hope its all good
all the best
mark

[Peterjfinch]

Hi James,

I feel strongly drawn towards the idea of, the original mounts (up rated probably) and the tie bar system we talked about. From a layman's point of view, this seams like it´s the best way to keep the vibration to a minimum and to keep the engines from damaging each other.

My main concern is, without cutting out the flooring, I can´t be sure what´s under it (stringers etc). As it is now, the two steps are strong and there is no sign of any weakness. The old engines were supported this way (on one step) for about 25 years, without any sign of stress or damage. I can´t help feeling, if it aint broke, why fix it. Is this the correct way to go though.

Pete

Originally Posted by larby

That's because the guy's clearly a complete and utter tosser, I have no idea at all why he's still allowed here when all he aims to do is offend people.
I've found this to be a very constructive and interesting thread, it's a shame he's being allowed to ruin it for the sake of Peter and everyone else who is interested.

Peter, As you're aware, most boat engines come as standard with rubber mounts to isolate any vibration from the boat and i think, to a lesser extent, protect the engine from hull flex, as shown in Tony's PDF.

I can see nothing wrong with either mounting the engines as normal on these and then adding a little brace between them, or using a cradle as someone suggested, with the cradle then mounted on these mounts. For what it's worth, I'd mount the engines individually, then put a brace on the top front and back, using the engine as a stressed member. This way it's as 'standard' as possible for any future buyers, and lighter without the cradle.

All the best,

James

[Peterjfinch]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your input. Your boat sounds like it can handle what I´m looking for, from mine. My main concern is that the engines don´t damage each other, if there is any movement. Also, if I allow enough space, between them, to prevent this, the engines are going to get too high in the boat.


I´m sure it will all be worth it, in the end.

Thanks

Pete

Originally Posted by wiggy808

Hi Peter,

Quite a job you've got on there!

We run a 40ft custom tender (wooden) she has twin Yanmar 4LHAs on Bravo 2 'X' diesels drives swinging 25" props. The engines are on the original Yanmar supplied anti vibration mounts. We've got over 1500hrs on them and most of them have been flat out. Mainly deliveries across the Med or between Caribbean islands, so not much flat water stuff.
We stripped both drives for routine checks and there were no issues at all with couplers etc.

Most Anti vibration mounts do not allow a huge amount of movement, ours certainly don't anyway.

I certainly would not want rigid mounted diesels, especially in a pleasure boat.

Good luck with the project, it'll all be worth the effort soon.

Chris

[MikeOakley]

Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL

HAHAHAHA...shows that you have no clue !!!!

the big ass Yachts your talking about are not using sterndrives...and have a very different set up, but since you are MR KNOW IT ALL ..i let you tell your english folks what to do and laugh my ass off if they listen to a keybord Hulk like you are.
I think its funny how many people want to beat my couple of teeth i have left into my head, and when most of them are at some US racesites they smile and say nice hello..TOOOO FUNNNYYYYY.
Just like you asshole. I say Bring it on and stand your ground MOFO !

Oh really,how big is big?

I think a 50 footer or so (Sunseeker Superhawk for example) is big enough (or the 36' in this case) and has triple sterndrive diesels, one up front in the middle and the others side by side, like an Apache 47 used to.
Let me tell you a cruiser/pleasureboat would be a no sale if the diesels (42KAD volvos in my example) would be rigid mounted and even be a potential risk in vibrating and pounding the hull to pieces which I addressed peter privately before anyone posted here anything.
But seems you know better MR Loudmouth...
Please, do not get more into the boatbuilding biz than you are, about 0 as it is.
FYI I rehauled a customers boat mentioned above last summer.

Offtopic.
By stating I´m big enough to wipe your toothless and stupid SMIRK not teeth outta your mug just shows how dumb you are as you seem to think I´ll drop your chevvies to the ground.
And Yes I´ll stand my ground easily in front of people like you IRL.

FYI I will not say hello to you, trust me, as I have nothing to get from you like some seem to do and try therefore to be nice, otherwise you´d yell for coppers... I know how you wiggle.

The Bottomline is the boat in this thread has already the flexible mounts.
They will be used (or similar), a 6.5 diesel bolts straight where a smallblock resides.
As TRS are used the drives do go somewhat lower compared to a bravo which would be a few hours bolt on job ( 2 extra holes needed in the transom) and presto we´re done.
Now we have a multithread with nothing but arguing and you going back and forth as usual and the result with you in the helm would be a complete disaster.
Remember this is a pleasureboat, so therefore drive height is not that much of an issue. I´d say we can go lower even the total amount TRS do as the 6.5´s will be down on power compared to Smallblocks therefore needing all the trim leverage they can get. Remember the drive heights in the 80´s with the usual power available even in performance boats ??

[larby]

It's more a case of 'if it don't look broken' with a boat, and I'm not sure it's the way forward. I hear what you're saying about the fact that it's done for many years, but then my revenger did for many years and looked fine at first, despite being very much the opposite!

As far as the wood in stringers etc is concerned, I'd look at using a hole saw to remove a 2" bit of glass so I can have a good ol poke about. You can also drill into it with about a 10mm bit to see what it feels like and have a deeped look. Any areas like this can then just be filled and glassed.

As far as metalwork/mounts are concerned then if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just make sure everything is exactly as you want it, or you'll be annoyed with it for ages. It'll be 100 times harder to do once it's all rigged!

James

[MikeOakley]

Originally Posted by larby

For what it's worth, I'd mount the engines individually, then put a brace on the top front and back, using the engine as a stressed member. This way it's as 'standard' as possible for any future buyers, and lighter without the cradle.

All the best,

James

+1
Just as I told peter to go privately... the easiest way also.

But as we know a guy who can´t even lash his own race engines valves is an expert behind the keyboard.

[larby]

I'll second all of that Mike! I'd also agree that it doesn't really matter if the drives are a touch low seeing as it's a leisure boat. I don't really think it's worth the risk of trying to go high.

James