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Old 08-02-2011, 11:53 PM   #141
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Country: Fl. USA
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Boat name: i call her baby
Boat make: Aero-tek
Engines: a lot of horses
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I agree and i am sorry for getting out of hand on some of my answers, but you guys don't know me either and come up with all kinds of conclutions about me. WHY ?? I am trying to help aswell and NO i don't know everything and never said that either. I do know that the engines should fit in and mounting them on rubber bushings is just wrong ..I SEEN THEM AFTER THE BUSHINGS BREAK BEFORE.
If you can fit 2 tall deck big blocks in a 34 center engine compartment then i see no problem fitting these in there as well.
All this hipe about nothing all the time. LOL
Also i was born in the US and lived in germany all my life untill 2004 so there is no need to bash the americans at all here either.
Most of you started to get personal about my hair or everything else.
So take my appoligies if i ofended anybody and stop beating me down to then i will stop as well !
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:56 AM   #142
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how far have you got with installing these lumps?
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:54 PM   #143
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Country: Spain
Location: Mallorca
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Boat name: Patriot and Forca
Boat make: Phantom 21. Falcon Bonito 36
Engines: 200hp Mariner. 2 x GM 6.5 Twin Turbo Diesels
Cruising area: The Med

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Still reading through the banter (I don't think so).

I hope to start glassing soon, when it's warm enough outside (over night). Then I think the way forward is to check all mounting structure inside, repair if needed and then get them in, as close as possible, with a brace front and rear.

That's my idea and I know nothing, NOW THAT MAKES A CHANGE, DOESN'T IT !!!!!


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how far have you got with installing these lumps?
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:43 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterjfinch View Post
Still reading through the banter (I don't think so).

I hope to start glassing soon, when it's warm enough outside (over night). Then I think the way forward is to check all mounting structure inside, repair if needed and then get them in, as close as possible, with a brace front and rear.

That's my idea and I know nothing, NOW THAT MAKES A CHANGE, DOESN'T IT !!!!!
i've put some big engines into some tight plces in my time, all the measuring in the world still won't make up for trying them in.
try getting these through a 6 x4 foot opening, all well an good you might say but when ones in it cuts that space in half
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Old 29-03-2011, 09:34 PM   #145
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Country: Spain
Location: Mallorca
Occupation: Retired
Interests: Boats, boats and boats
Boat name: Patriot and Forca
Boat make: Phantom 21. Falcon Bonito 36
Engines: 200hp Mariner. 2 x GM 6.5 Twin Turbo Diesels
Cruising area: The Med

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mallorca
Posts: 716
Hi all, been snowed under with work and need some "boat therapy". So, I hope to get back into this very soon. I want to get the engines side by side and get some more accurate measurements, before I start glassing holes. I'm still thinking along the lines of running them very close and putting some form of brace's between them. Maybe keeping the glass work down to a minimum and keeping the engine height as low as possible.

Any fresh ideas from you guys?

All the best.

Pete
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:03 PM   #146
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Country: Spain
Location: Mallorca
Occupation: Retired
Interests: Boats, boats and boats
Boat name: Patriot and Forca
Boat make: Phantom 21. Falcon Bonito 36
Engines: 200hp Mariner. 2 x GM 6.5 Twin Turbo Diesels
Cruising area: The Med

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mallorca
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Back to work

After a busy year, I'm now ready to get these engines into the boat.

The engines are close together now, on the pallets. There is 1cm gap between the closest parts of the engines. This gives me 86cm center's.

Transferring these dimensions and following the TRS installation measurements, the pictures below show the new positions of the drives.

The white paper inserts are the original cut-outs.

As you can see, the Starboard drive is a long way off but the Port drive looks quite close.

My questions are:

What's the best way to do these?

Can I cutout where necessary, place melamine board on the outside, with internal cutouts (Something like the third picture), then fill where necessary with fiberglass and wood, stepping out at least to the new bolt holes including new wood and glass between top and bottom holes. Also glassing the openings to give more strength and seal the holes?
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Old 13-03-2013, 04:44 PM   #147
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Country: Spain
Location: Mallorca
Occupation: Retired
Interests: Boats, boats and boats
Boat name: Patriot and Forca
Boat make: Phantom 21. Falcon Bonito 36
Engines: 200hp Mariner. 2 x GM 6.5 Twin Turbo Diesels
Cruising area: The Med

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mallorca
Posts: 716
It looks like I'm going to be better off replacing the complete transom. I've noticed an outward bow in the outside surface of the transom, so there could be some swelling and / or delamination going on in there.

So, for now it's going to be a dry run, fitting the transom shields and working out the engine mounting. Work out where everything will fit on the transom and then do the full transom and entire engine bay.

A couple of questions:

As for the new cross-member. I think that I'll reproduce something like the original cross-member. Each engine and box, (wet) weigh almost 800kg. So what gauge metal would you guys suggest.

When it comes to the transom, the floor that's obviously sitting on the stringers, will have to come out. I presume this is adding strength around the cross-member mounting but is it structural after that? I'm thinking of removing it all, from the transom up to the cross-member.
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Old 13-03-2013, 09:51 PM   #148
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Country: Spain
Location: Mallorca
Occupation: Retired
Interests: Boats, boats and boats
Boat name: Patriot and Forca
Boat make: Phantom 21. Falcon Bonito 36
Engines: 200hp Mariner. 2 x GM 6.5 Twin Turbo Diesels
Cruising area: The Med

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mallorca
Posts: 716
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterjfinch View Post
Each engine and box, (wet) weigh almost 800kg.
Each engine and box, (wet) weigh almost 600kg.
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