Hunton/ilmor Build - Page 30

peterunwin · 26-07-2011, 11:50 AM

Hi All,
The machined parts for the tie rod installation are now all complete and have been polished ready for attachment to the drives. Next task is to tap the holes in the cavitation plate ready for the stainless steel threaded inserts.

Peter

Dozzer · 26-07-2011, 06:08 PM

Looking good!

Thanks for a brilliant job on our Arneson rams!

Cookee · 27-07-2011, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dozzer

Looking good!

Thanks for a brilliant job on our Arneson rams!

Sorry for the thread drift - how fast does the Fountain go? - Thanks!

peterunwin · 27-07-2011, 06:28 PM

Hi All,
The workshop has been looking like an Ilmor repair centre for the last couple of days as i stripped the lower units of the drives so that i could clean out the swarf generated by drilling and tapping the cavitation plates for installing the threaded inserts. After washing the internal cavity i thoroughly degreased them before applying a liberal dose of epoxy to seal the inserts, i then reassembled the drives by which time the epoxy had cured, the tie bar mounting plate and all it's bolts had a liberal dose of sikaflex so that water doesn't penetrate the joint.

Peter

peterunwin · 27-07-2011, 06:39 PM

And there is more.....

peterunwin · 27-07-2011, 06:43 PM

and just a few more

Mikko Oikari · 27-07-2011, 07:08 PM

Hi Peter,

Why not use the std Ilmor tiebar?

Jon Fuller · 27-07-2011, 08:18 PM

Peter, what thickness are those triangular base plates?

peterunwin · 27-07-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikko Oikari

Hi Peter,

Why not use the std Ilmor tiebar?

Hi Mikko,
The mounting position chosen is more than twice the distance from the steering pivot point than the standard Ilmor mounting position it is also mounted much lower down so i am able to keep control of the distance between the propellors much more accurately as the boat leaves and re-enters the water.

Peter

Scand · 28-07-2011, 06:50 AM

What’s this gear for? Is it running the lubrication pump?

peterunwin · 28-07-2011, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon Fuller

Peter, what thickness are those triangular base plates?

Hi Jon,
The stainless steel plates are 9mm thick and are designed to be sacrificial in the event of one drive hitting a submerged object and running out of articulation on the spherical joints, the plate is designed to twist hopefully without causing any other damage to the spherical joint or the cavitation plate, that is also why they have two fairly large holes drilled in them as they were just too strong when they were solid.

Peter

peterunwin · 28-07-2011, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scand

What’s this gear for? Is it running the lubrication pump?

Hi Petter,
The circled item in the picture is a spline and doesn't connect to anything inside the drive my best guess would be that it is for holding the drive shaft while torquing the nut so that you don't stress the gears unnecessarily when i have time i will ask Ilmor.We are of to Hamble now to help with the install of triple D6'S should be interesting.

Peter

Jim Brooker · 28-07-2011, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterunwin

Hi Petter,
The circled item in the picture is a spline and doesn't connect to anything inside the drive my best guess would be that it is for holding the drive shaft while torquing the nut so that you don't stress the gears unnecessarily when i have time i will ask Ilmor.We are of to Hamble now to help with the install of triple D6'S should be interesting.

Peter

The splined shaft is for torquing up the nuts as-well as loading the lower gears, the same as all the Speed Master Drives.
On the S/M Drives you load both down-shafts with 56 pound weights to load the lower gears ( depending on rotation ) so you can get the right backlash on the two top gears, then you torque up the nuts.
Hope this helps.

Scand · 28-07-2011, 10:28 AM

Thanks for your answer.
How is the drive lubricated then?

Jim Brooker · 28-07-2011, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scand

Thanks for your answer.
How is the drive lubricated then?

It's totally full with oil, only the Mk 6's can be dry sump-ed, I don't know if you can buy the Ilmor drive with a dry sump system.

peterunwin · 28-07-2011, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scand

Thanks for your answer.
How is the drive lubricated then?

Hi Petter,
The drives are only partially filled with oil and there is a circulation pump mounted in the top of the drive which distributes the oil to all the bearings and gears, it is said to suffer much less peristaltic losses than a number 6 dry sump drive so hopefully more horsepower to the water

Peter

Jim Brooker · 28-07-2011, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterunwin

Hi Petter,
The drives are only partially filled with oil and there is a circulation pump mounted in the top of the drive which distributes the oil to all the bearings and gears, it is said to suffer much less peristaltic losses than a number 6 dry sump drive so hopefully more horsepower to the water

Peter

Well that's interesting I didn't realizes that the Ilmor drive wasn't full of oil like all of the Mercruiser drives.

DAREDEVIL · 30-07-2011, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Brooker

It's totally full with oil, only the Mk 6's can be dry sump-ed, I don't know if you can buy the Ilmor drive with a dry sump system.

Weismann in california, drysumped a #4..-5.. and was actually the founder of the so called dry sumping..the only thing is HIS was REAL DRY SUMP with a seperate tank in the boat. Merc stole the idea and made it half sump which is now called drysump ( only the upper half is actually dry and oil sprayed )

hope that helps !?

Peter, LOOKING VERY NICE !!!!!

Jon Fuller · 30-07-2011, 07:28 AM

John Clarke's engineer ( name escapes me at mo) dry sumped (with inboard pump, reservior, filter, cooler etc) the mk4's on his class 1 Cougar/ 2valve Lamborghini cat back in the late 80's. They struggled with engine reliability though, so no great successes with that boat.

Actually, 'dry sumping' may be an exaggeration, maybe he just set up pumped recirculation, filtering, cooling etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL

Weismann in california, drysumped a #4..-5.. and was actually the founder of the so called dry sumping..the only thing is HIS was REAL DRY SUMP with a seperate tank in the boat. Merc stole the idea and made it half sump which is now called drysump ( only the upper half is actually dry and oil sprayed )

hope that helps !?

Peter, LOOKING VERY NICE !!!!!

Jim Brooker · 30-07-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL

Weismann in california, drysumped a #4..-5.. and was actually the founder of the so called dry sumping..the only thing is HIS was REAL DRY SUMP with a seperate tank in the boat. Merc stole the idea and made it half sump which is now called drysump ( only the upper half is actually dry and oil sprayed )

hope that helps !?

Peter, LOOKING VERY NICE !!!!!

Full dry sump system seems a lot of work, with one side of a pump scavenging and the side doing the pressure, a tank and cooler, no wonder Mercs went for just a half the job with the pump in the drive.